460 buildup
- Thread starter blazeracer
- Start date
Crusader
Moderator
James.....Dude. While your motor is out of the boat, go ahead and put an adapter here your oil plug is. That way you can run a hose from the adapter out the drain hole of your transom when it comes to changing the oil. You'll be glad you did.
Matt has his motor set up that way and he knows where to get the valves from.
Matt has his motor set up that way and he knows where to get the valves from.
duanehydro
Active member
Crusader said:
alrighty.....have a few spare oil drain kits....about 2 hours ago I could have added 1 to the box.... :smile15:
Last Mohecian
Administrator
James, you may want to check with the cam manufacturer and see what they recommend for cam break in. I would actually call them as the ZDDP levels in oil that still have it seem to be changing daily. Some oils, including the diesel oils, that had ZDDP just a year ago now have none. No change in the packaging other than the fact that it no longer says ZDDP. The ZDDP in VR-1 has been reduced. I'm not sure what the PPM is now but some is better than none for a flat tappet engine especially for new brake in. It is not as critical after the cam is broke in. It is not necessary for a roller motor unless you have some really high spring seat pressures. Some of the oils that still have higher ZDDP levels are Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs racing oils. You will be hard pressed to find those local. You might get lucky at ET, Grubbs or Fat Daddy's.
Loong story short, CYA and call you cam maker.
Loong story short, CYA and call you cam maker.
blazeracer
New member
Crusader said:
I think my boat had one on it that I just took off. There is no possible way to get to it when the motor is in. I do the vacuum pump through the dipstick method. Unless what I had was some monkey rigged contraption. There was like a brass valve down there, but my engine compartment is so tight there is no way to reach it without removing the back seat.
Last Mohecian
Administrator
blazeracer said:
You need one of the hoses with a cap on it. It is a hose that is long enough to reach from the oil drain plug through the drain hole in the hull. It screws into the oil drain hole in the pan and then has a cap on the other end. When it is time to change the oil you thread it through your hull drain plug, pull the cap off the hose to drain the oil. After you are done put the cap back on tuck it back up inside the hull.
http://www.cpperformance.com/p-13338-e-z-oil-drain-kit-fits-drain-plug-holes-with-12-20-thread.aspx
duanehydro
Active member
that's what I was talking about.... 
blazeracer
New member
That's exactly what mine had on it that I took off cause I can't reach into the bilge. Maybe if I permanantly mount the hose to a plug installed outside the hull, that would work. I'll snap a pic in a few. Got another dilemma..
The water flow....
Got the block off plate and it clears the HEI. Went to Hose Fast and got a couple of brass elbows. One goes in where the water temp sensor was. For the other I will have to either tap the hole next to the one that is there now or put a T fitting in place of the elbow. I went to NAPA and got a temp sensor that fits into one of the smaller holes on top of the water passage.
IF I can find a tap big enough for the other hole I still have the issue of getting it screwed in because the two holes are too close together. One of the brass fitting will have to trimmed slightly, like remove one barb.
Will a T fitting flow enough water to keep the motor cool? That would be easier if it will work. Then put the old expansion plug back in the other hole and call this one DONE!
The water flow....
Got the block off plate and it clears the HEI. Went to Hose Fast and got a couple of brass elbows. One goes in where the water temp sensor was. For the other I will have to either tap the hole next to the one that is there now or put a T fitting in place of the elbow. I went to NAPA and got a temp sensor that fits into one of the smaller holes on top of the water passage.
IF I can find a tap big enough for the other hole I still have the issue of getting it screwed in because the two holes are too close together. One of the brass fitting will have to trimmed slightly, like remove one barb.
Will a T fitting flow enough water to keep the motor cool? That would be easier if it will work. Then put the old expansion plug back in the other hole and call this one DONE!
Last Mohecian
Administrator
blazeracer said:
Just FYI that temp sender from NAPA is probably the wrong OHM range for you gauge. For the hose fitting go to Home Depot / Lowe's and get a brass street elbow and a separate barb fitting. Screw the street elbow in then add the barb once it is in position. hang on I'll get you a pic.
Last Mohecian
Administrator
Also, I have a set of NPT taps... well... Chad has them right now. I almost hate the say they are cheap Harbor Freight pieces but to tap one hole in aluminum they are just fine.
blazeracer
New member
Last Mohican said:Also, I have a set of large NPT taps... well... Chad has them right now. I almost hate the say they are cheap Harbor Freight pieces but to tap one hole in aluminum they are just fine.
I was just looking at those over at HD across the street a few minutes ago. Cool, I'll go that route. What did that tap set run? For a occasional use it would be good to have, especially if I have it when I need it a second time. Even Chinese cutters should be able to handle aluminum.
Last Mohecian
Administrator
blazeracer said:
$12 Exactly why I have it. Needed it once to tap an aluminum piece on a Sunday.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-pipe-tap-die-set-91395.html
blazeracer
New member
Oh, the drain hose. Yeah, it would work I think. There's not a lot of room in there, but there is room. Let me get this straight then. I pull the drain plug from the boat, run the hose out of the hole, uncork the hose and the oil comes out, right?
Last Mohecian
Administrator
blazeracer said:
Egg Zachery. Drains a little slower than the plug but works just fine if the oil is up in temp a little bit. I just run my motor for a minute or two before I drain the oil
blazeracer
New member
Ok, that's different than the one I took off. You still had to open a valve at the oil pan on the one I took off, which is impossible. Then the hose end on that one was just open. Real PITA. Easier to stick a vacuum pump down the dipstick hole and come back in 30 minutes.
Last Mohecian
Administrator
blazeracer said:
Can you flip it? Put the open end on the pan and the valve where you can get to it. Or just get a cap for the open end and leave the valve open when you install it.
blazeracer
New member
Last Mohican said:
This one I have screws to the oil pan, then you have to twist the valve to open it. I think the easier, cheaper, and best way to do it right is get a complete kit and put it on correctly.
Anyway, got the tap kit. The 90 streets elbows need even more room to turn than brass ones I have because they are so wide. So I dremel'd one barb off of one brass elbow and it screwed right on. Test fitted a hose and it's all good.
Time to head home.
blazeracer
New member
Damn it all..... Just put the balancer back on and was looking for the timing pointer of which I just blasted and painted. Wife had the guys load up the trailer to go to scrap metal.. yeah... My timing pointer is nowhere to be found..
DANG IT!!
I just know if I order up a new one mine will turn up too...
DANG IT!!
I just know if I order up a new one mine will turn up too...