Work Continues On The Glastron

blazeracer

New member
Read a few forums, seems like a waste of money to those who have tried it. One guy said he gained one MPH, but also said the gain may have been from smoother water conditions on the after comparison. I think getting the hull's clear coat polished to a high shine will work just as well.
 

jdeaton

New member
OK Here goes, my explanation of speedcoat.  Speedcoat is a paint type material, that helps break up the suction caused by water sliding over the surface of the hull.  It would seem that the smoother the surface the faster you go, but in reality water will form a suction and cause drag.  You will get faster speeds on a slight chop, 2 inch is optimum, than you will on a glass smooth lake.  James when your getting close to 100 MPH and the price of speed is about $1000.00 for each additional MPH, the 30 buck for speedcoat is well worth the money.  I don't recommend you need speedcoat, I just asked, since your right there, why not?  a MPH is an MPH.
 

Crusader

Moderator
DiamondJim said:
OK Here goes, my explanation of speedcoat.  Speedcoat is a paint type material, that helps break up the suction caused by water sliding over the surface of the hull.  It would seem that the smoother the surface the faster you go, but in reality water will form a suction and cause drag.  You will get faster speeds on a slight chop, 2 inch is optimum, than you will on a glass smooth lake.  James when your getting close to 100 MPH and the price of speed is about $1000.00 for each additional MPH, the 30 buck for speedcoat is well worth the money.  I don't recommend you need speedcoat, I just asked, since your right there, why not?  a MPH is an MPH.

The way it was explained to me is that it's like a teflon coating on a frying pan that actually deflects water.....if the water doesn't stick to the bottom of the hull, it's deflected thus providing less friction.

Certainly makes sense to me.

If you wax your hull, that'll last one, maybe two outings and then the wax will be gone. This stuff stays on and deflects water for a long time.

Ken Sr. has it on his boat too.
 

73 Sanger Flat

Active member
DiamondJim said:
OK Here goes, my explanation of speedcoat.  Speedcoat is a paint type material, that helps break up the suction caused by water sliding over the surface of the hull.  It would seem that the smoother the surface the faster you go, but in reality water will form a suction and cause drag.  You will get faster speeds on a slight chop, 2 inch is optimum, than you will on a glass smooth lake.  James when your getting close to 100 MPH and the price of speed is about $1000.00 for each additional MPH, the 30 buck for speedcoat is well worth the money.  I don't recommend you need speedcoat, I just asked, since your right there, why not?  a MPH is an MPH.

This is true . You do not want a super slick painted bottom . The speed coat help a little . I completely understand the $1000.00 for each MPH over the century mark . I need to speed coat mine one of these days .
 

Crusader

Moderator
blazeracer said:
Yeah, it was $40 for a quart from what I saw.. I'll mill it around for the day.

If you put it on....then it might even reduce friction enough that the next time you decide to "Power beach" the Glastron....it'll go up the beach even further.....maybe even some James Bond action kinda shit man!!
 

blazeracer

New member
Real funny Cliff... It would be cool to do a James Bond move once, just to say you did it...

Her's the stuff..

http://www.eddiemarine.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=13031&c=264

From Performance Boats forums....

Probably not the answer you're looking for, but for an average fast lake/ bracket boat, the best, easiest, readily available speed coat is to wax the existing gel and save your $$$. The best speed coat you can buy is still a PITA, doesn't last, rubs off with the trailer bunks and looks like crap after a few times out. The amount of performance increase speed coat gives you is minimal so why bother for sportsman level boat? A pro level boat, yea you gotta do it.
We redid our speed coat last winter because our boat is yellow and the gel underneath is red. After a few times out it's already looking kinda rough. Kinda wish I'd have just painted it single stage gray with a bit of flatner and maybe some flex additive. Cost would have been about the same, but it would still look better now than it does. If your gel is decent and matches the boat, wax it and call it done...
 

HammerDown

New member
Crusader said:
DiamondJim said:
OK Here goes, my explanation of speedcoat.  Speedcoat is a paint type material, that helps break up the suction caused by water sliding over the surface of the hull.  It would seem that the smoother the surface the faster you go, but in reality water will form a suction and cause drag.  You will get faster speeds on a slight chop, 2 inch is optimum, than you will on a glass smooth lake.  James when your getting close to 100 MPH and the price of speed is about $1000.00 for each additional MPH, the 30 buck for speedcoat is well worth the money.  I don't recommend you need speedcoat, I just asked, since your right there, why not?  a MPH is an MPH.

The way it was explained to me is that it's like a teflon coating on a frying pan that actually deflects water.....if the water doesn't stick to the bottom of the hull, it's deflected thus providing less friction.

Certainly makes sense to me.

If you wax your hull, that'll last one, maybe two outings and then the wax will be gone. This stuff stays on and deflects water for a long time.

Ken Sr. has it on his boat too.

X2 I have it on mine, but its coming off. I will re apply it when I flip my hull to have the keel done. Bout all the guys up around here that are fast have it. Just something to think about.
 

HammerDown

New member
blazeracer said:
How long has it been on because I don't want to flip this pig again as long as I own it!!

I dunno, it was on there when I bought it. I do however know the guy that built or rebuilt the boat and he did so in 2005. But its almost all gone, dont about your lakes down there but most up here are real sandy or red mud. so I could see where it wouldnt take long for the turbitiy in the water to basially water jet it off. Our home lake is nice and clean, so I wouldnt have to worry about it for a while.
 

blazeracer

New member
A lot of guys on the other boards are talking about how it discolors fairly quickly, like in a few months. I think at a cost of 1mph I'd rather keep it pretty. Mines not a race boat.
 

HammerDown

New member
blazeracer said:
A lot of guys on the other boards are talking about how it discolors fairly quickly, like in a few months. I think at a cost of 1mph I'd rather keep it pretty. Mines not a race boat.

No doubt there are alot of really fast boats out there that aren't speed coated. I dont think its a deal breaker by any means
 

blazeracer

New member
Definitely something to think about though. If I had a boat like Ken Jr. or Mike I would defintiely consider it.

Jimmy better put it on his TX19 cause he's gonna need it to keep up with my Ford. LOLOLOL
 

TintMan

New member
The ol guys will tell you that SANDING the rear section of your boat with 320 grit is more effective than speed coat... :smile17:
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
TintMan said:
The ol guys will tell you that SANDING the rear section of your boat with 320 grit is more effective than speed coat... :smile17:

Makes total sense to me.  Breaking the surface tension will reduce the percent of the bottom that is wet.  There in no denying the dryer the boat the faster it is.

What I get from the theory behind speed coat is that is basically roughs the surface up.  It's kind of like a flat paint.  There are millions of little peaks and valleys as opposed to a shiny surface where it is pretty much smooth.  Each of those valleys ( or peaks depending on how you look at it.) is a place for air to hold.  To exaggerate the theory if the valleys = 50% of the surface you have just reduced the water contact by 50%.  By this theory, what Scott says makes total sense.

Kinda like indexing plugs, it's a tiny advantage BUT to the guy out there looking for every last fraction of a HP it can make the difference.

Just My .02  I'm kinda new at this though so I could be completely of base.
 

KONA77

New member
Last Mohican said:
TintMan said:
The ol guys will tell you that SANDING the rear section of your boat with 320 grit is more effective than speed coat... :smile17:

Makes total sense to me.  Breaking the surface tension will reduce the percent of the bottom that is wet.  There in no denying the dryer the boat the faster it is.

that explains why my boat is faster on the trailer....  mystery solved  :grin:
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
KONA said:
Last Mohican said:
TintMan said:
The ol guys will tell you that SANDING the rear section of your boat with 320 grit is more effective than speed coat... :smile17:

Makes total sense to me.  Breaking the surface tension will reduce the percent of the bottom that is wet.  There in no denying the dryer the boat the faster it is.

that explains why my boat is faster on the trailer....  mystery solved  :grin:

LOL Exactly.  Same here with less HP even.
 

Crusader

Moderator
Last Mohican said:
Makes total sense to me.  Breaking the surface tension will reduce the percent of the bottom that is wet.  There in no denying the dryer the boat the faster it is.

Fountain boats were the first to introduce the "stepped" hull way back when.....basically breaks the suction by breaking up the surface of the hull allowing air to take the place where the water was.

 

blazeracer

New member
Like I said, if it were a boat like Jr's or Mike's I would definitely consider it. But after doing all this work to make it pretty I'll be fine giving up a "possible" 1mph to keep it nice and shiny on the trailer.

Plus the $60 spent on that stuff can get me hardened push rods.. Those I really need!!!
 
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