1968 Rayson-Craft 18' Jet Resto Project

[jimsplace]

I may have missed your reason for wanting to go with a 427 rather than a 454 crank, but the larger motor will make more power with no more stress on the parts.
If you're considering a new crank and rods, consider an even larger crank, they don't cost much more and will provide more torque.

As already said, it cost money to go faster, but sometimes there are combinations that don't cost more, depending on what is available.
If you have used parts lined up or already have, then there is a reason to use that too.

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

I may have missed your reason for wanting to go with a 427 rather than a 454 crank, but the larger motor will make more power with no more stress on the parts.
If you're considering a new crank and rods, consider an even larger crank, they don't cost much more and will provide more torque.

As already said, it cost money to go faster, but sometimes there are combinations that don't cost more, depending on what is available.
If you have used parts lined up or already have, then there is a reason to use that too.

Well i looked at doing a 496 stroker, but to do it right the supporting parts put it out of my budget, and the reason for the 427 is i can get a 1pc rear seal forged crank with bearings for 300 bucks, a forged 454 crank at the cheapest is almost twice the price for a low end crank, and i don't think there would be that much more torque for the money spent.  Since im punching it .030 over it will actually be a 432.  Lol

I haven't found any good deals on used parts and trust me Ive been looking. 

 

[FL350]

Love my 427's!!

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

Love my 427's!!

Whats that address again?  Ill be on my way to pick one up, your choice im not greedy!  LOL 

 

[jimsplace]

Love my 427's!!

Whats that address again?  Ill be on my way to pick one up, your choice im not greedy!  LOL

You might call first before you go pick up that motor.
The engine on the right that has PFAFF on the valve covers could also be spelled $$$$$.

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

Love my 427's!!

Whats that address again?  Ill be on my way to pick one up, your choice im not greedy!  LOL

You might call first before you go pick up that motor.
The engine on the right that has PFAFF on the valve covers could also be spelled $$$$$.

Yeah im sure either one is way out of my budget!

I'm looking at cams now, and wanted to get some opinions on a couple.

Comp Extreme Marine Hyd Roller XM296HR ADV Dur 296/302 Dur@.050 242/248 .566/.566 lift with 1.7 rockers on a 112 LSA 110 ICL  2800-6200 RPM Range

Lunati VooDoo Hyd Roller 20010723  ADV Dur 292/300 Dur@.050 241/249 .625/.625 lift with 1.7 rockers on a 110 LSA 106 ICL 2600-6200 RPM Range

Clay Smith Hyd Roller HR-8486-7-CSR  Adv Dur 284/286 Dur@.050 225/227 .559/.530 lift with 1.7 rockers on a 107LSA 103 ICL 111 ECL No RPM range listed just 6K max RPM.

I put all this in my desktop dyno and i know the numbers are inflated, but the clay smith cam never drops below 500ft lbs of tq from 2000-6000 RPM, and shows 589 HP.  But if the torque curve on this is even remotely close this cam is stump puller!!!  The Clay Smith website does say buy stock in tires!!

With an XM284HR Adv Dur 284/290 Dur@.050 230/236 with .547/.547 lift on a 112 LSA 110 ICL on a bone stock junkyard vortec 454 a magazine dyno test with an edelbrock performer RPM and 750 carb and dyno headers and no accessories they made 428HP/507TQ and this was with the stock 9.0:1 CR.  Pretty decent numbers IMO, and i think with alittle more cam and my builds 10.6:1 CR i can get closer to the 500 mark. 

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

Ok, I was able to score the original Mickey Thompson wheels for 200 for all 4, and besides needing a good cleaning why seem to be in great shape.  They should really complete the look for the boat and trailer and well worth the drive to San Antonio.

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

Ok, still looking for some mounts for Thai boat.  There are 4 feet mounted to the stringers that I'm hoping I can reuse, I've been searching eBay and came across a couple I think will work, but wanted to get some opinions.

The first one is a an Edelbrock rear motor plate, says it needs a spacer that covers the flywheel to work and fit properly.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/152372188759

The other one is a Berkeley bellhousing for a three point style mount and it look like the same style of rear mount my other boat with the 455 olds had but polished.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/291982697876

I'm not sure if one really works any better that the other, and still not sure how to mount the front.

 

[FL350]

I personally like the 4 point system over a 3. Seen to much breakage. But it's all what your budget can handle too.

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

Well i was thinking the 4 point would be a way better way to go as well, just wasnt sure where to get the spacer id need to use with that Edelbrock rear plate, any ideas?  Also any thoughts on a front plate?

 

[Patchman]

I bet Keith Graves would have your parts. I don't know him, but I'm sure someone here does. He seems to have allot of jet boat parts. think.gif

 

[FL350]

We run the back adapter on our Superstock engines. I'll call my supplier today and see if they have some on the shelf and cost. The front plate can be found.

 

[Devilman]

Ok, still looking for some mounts for Thai boat.  There are 4 feet mounted to the stringers that I'm hoping I can reuse, I've been searching eBay and came across a couple I think will work, but wanted to get some opinions.

The first one is a an Edelbrock rear motor plate, says it needs a spacer that covers the flywheel to work and fit properly.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/152372188759

The other one is a Berkeley bellhousing for a three point style mount and it look like the same style of rear mount my other boat with the 455 olds had but polished.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/291982697876

I'm not sure if one really works any better that the other, and still not sure how to mount the front.

I may have missed it... is the issue that the motor plates you have in mind, are too narrow to work with the mounting feet you have?

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

Ok, still looking for some mounts for Thai boat.  There are 4 feet mounted to the stringers that I'm hoping I can reuse, I've been searching eBay and came across a couple I think will work, but wanted to get some opinions.

The first one is a an Edelbrock rear motor plate, says it needs a spacer that covers the flywheel to work and fit properly.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/152372188759

The other one is a Berkeley bellhousing for a three point style mount and it look like the same style of rear mount my other boat with the 455 olds had but polished.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/291982697876

I'm not sure if one really works any better that the other, and still not sure how to mount the front.

I may have missed it... is the issue that the motor plates you have in mind, are too narrow to work with the mounting feet you have?

I have no idea if they will fit or not, i don't have any front or rear mount plates for the BBC, and the mounting feet mounted on my stringers now are bolted in for a ford engine, but im thinking they should be pretty close length wise.  I measured between my stringers and if i remember right it was around 25-26" i think.

I was looking at some of the newer style rail mount kits and i like the way they look and the cost doesn't seem to bad for what your getting, but if i can find some vintage late 60's early 70's style mounts i think it will fit the boat much better, plus this was an original 4 point mount setup that i want to keep, so the Berkeley 3pt is out.

I was also thinking that i could use that edelbrock rear plate with an auto trans style flexplate, and PTO adapter for the crank and then the driveshaft to the pump and with just the auto trans flexplate i wont need the spacer that goes in there would I???

EDIT:  I messaged the guy on ebay this morning asking if he had the spacer and front mount plate, he said he did have the spacer but hadn't seen a front plate for quit a while, but that they do pop up from time to time.  Plate is 25 1/2 inches wide, so i going to go home at lunch and measure between my feet and see if it will work, if it will be will make a deal of 225 shipped for the rear plate and spacer. 

Just wonder how hard the front matching plate would be to find?

 

[Patchman]

The Modern rail setup, is by far the best/easiest to use. But the vintage look has a certain appeal.  think.gif

 

[Nitro Neil]

Love my 427's!!

These 427 haul ass, and do it effeciantly. That is all I am saying

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

What about running a Billet Aluminum Harmonic Balancer?  Good? Bad? save a bunch of weight over the stock balancer.


Ok, I measured just a shade over 24" between my stringers, and about 19" between the mounting holes in the feet that are already mounted to the stringers, and that Edelbrock rear plate is 25 1/2" wide so that wouldn't work unless I cut it down about 3/4 of an inch on each side, and then I'd probably also have to cut down my mounting feet and redrill them, all of this isn't something I can't do, just wondering if this would be the best way to do it?

 

[FL350]

I don't know about those aluminum ones. Put a ATI damper on it and never look back.

As far as the mounts. Kinda what do you prefer? I did check with some folks and found the spacer. But I seen where you found one.

 

[Devilman]

Ok, I measured just a shade over 24" between my stringers, and about 19" between the mounting holes in the feet that are already mounted to the stringers, and that Edelbrock rear plate is 25 1/2" wide so that wouldn't work unless I cut it down about 3/4 of an inch on each side, and then I'd probably also have to cut down my mounting feet and redrill them, all of this isn't something I can't do, just wondering if this would be the best way to do it?

Honestly, if it were me, I'd check on a rail kit, or at the very least a complete 4 pt. set up somewhere before I paid for something I was going to have to modify anyway... Be kind of a bummer to spend the money, go to messing with it & then it possibly not work. Then if it's been cut on/modified may be tough to re-sell. That's just me though. :smile17:

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

Ok, I measured just a shade over 24" between my stringers, and about 19" between the mounting holes in the feet that are already mounted to the stringers, and that Edelbrock rear plate is 25 1/2" wide so that wouldn't work unless I cut it down about 3/4 of an inch on each side, and then I'd probably also have to cut down my mounting feet and redrill them, all of this isn't something I can't do, just wondering if this would be the best way to do it?

Honestly, if it were me, I'd check on a rail kit, or at the very least a complete 4 pt. set up somewhere before I paid for something I was going to have to modify anyway... Be kind of a bummer to spend the money, go to messing with it & then it possibly not work. Then if it's been cut on/modified may be tough to re-sell. That's just me though. :smile17:

Yes def a complete 4pt mount kit would be great, but nothing has popped up yet, and since i was wanting to stick with something vintage i figured id have to piece it all together.  But i do like the rail kits, but to be honest at 550 bucks for the ones Ive looked at, not sure i like them that much...LOL