1968 Rayson-Craft 18' Jet Resto Project

[SyTy Speed Shop]

If you are running them through the transom, I would think you might need a flex point between header and the tips.  think.gif

Yeah ive been thinking about that as well, and they make these flex joints from Stainless steel i thought about adding in, but not sure.  Something like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-61208/overview/

If you decide to run TT without introducing water to the exhaust somehow to cool it before exiting through the transom you will (at a minimum) damage the hull. If you go OT with the mufflers I would recommend a header brace for the added weight.

Yeah, was actually thinking about making a water jacketed pipe that would go thru the transom with the tip on the end and having it water cooled to keep the hull from getting to hot, but then my exhaust setup starts to get very complicated.  Id just run the header OT but since my transom is pretty tall, it would require some custom pipes, which in the end may just be easier to do, im kicking around a few ideas, nothing set in stock yet, except for the Rewarder headers i bought...LOL

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

Figured id post an update, my new fiberglass bucket seats from JBP arrived today and they will do just fine, super light and seem to be pretty strong, so im happy with them so far.  Now i just need to figure out the best way to get them mounted.

Are most seats in these types of boats just mounted firmly with no adjustment?  Since this boat originally had a bench i don't think ill be able to use the original seat mounts, but maybe with the addition of a flat board i can?  Will be in Dallas for turkey day, but will be back on Saturday and will be making some progress and taking some pics.

 

[Devilman]

Most of the boats I've been around, have non-adjustable seats. Buddy of mine is using a slide mechanism under his driver seat though. My boat the driver seat doesn't slide but is on a swivel, as are both the front buckets in my brother's boat. Guess it just depends on your interior layout & what you want to be able to do.

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

Most of the boats I've been around, have non-adjustable seats. Buddy of mine is using a slide mechanism under his driver seat though. My boat the driver seat doesn't slide but is on a swivel, as are both the front buckets in my brother's boat. Guess it just depends on your interior layout & what you want to be able to do.

Yeah I'm thinking I'm gonna mount them solid just to keep things simple and I'll be the only one driving this beast anyhow.  Lol


I also wanted to know if anyone has any experience with Dooley Enterprises oil pans?  There is a used one on ebay that will fit my gen 6 Block and is a 10qt.  Seems like a decent deal but no pick up tube.

 

[Devilman]

Yeah I'm thinking I'm gonna mount them solid just to keep things simple and I'll be the only one driving this beast anyhow.  Lol


I also wanted to know if anyone has any experience with Dooley Enterprises oil pans?  There is a used one on ebay that will fit my gen 6 Block and is a 10qt.  Seems like a decent deal but no pick up tube.

I bought a used Dooley pan 5 or 6 years ago, but never put it on, lol... Main reason being I ain't pulling a running engine just to swap an oil pan. I just wanted more oil capacity over the 5 qt. front sump pan that's on it. That said, that small car pan been on it for the entire 11 years I've had the boat & I haven't had any issues with it so maybe I should just leave it alone.  :cheesy: Doing some reading back then, I found there are better quality pans out there, but for the average lake boater wanting a large capacity pan I'd think they're probably ok. What is it going for? Any idea of what they are new?

 

[Patchman]

I've always heard running a larger pan on a jet is a good idea. I haven't had any problems with my stock pan, but I'm not running my boat out the back door! Crap, I'm not running my boat at all right now! :smile25:

 

[Disturbed]

I'm running a Dooley.  Excellent piece.

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

Yeah I'm thinking I'm gonna mount them solid just to keep things simple and I'll be the only one driving this beast anyhow.  Lol


I also wanted to know if anyone has any experience with Dooley Enterprises oil pans?  There is a used one on ebay that will fit my gen 6 Block and is a 10qt.  Seems like a decent deal but no pick up tube.

I bought a used Dooley pan 5 or 6 years ago, but never put it on, lol... Main reason being I ain't pulling a running engine just to swap an oil pan. I just wanted more oil capacity over the 5 qt. front sump pan that's on it. That said, that small car pan been on it for the entire 11 years I've had the boat & I haven't had any issues with it so maybe I should just leave it alone.  :cheesy: Doing some reading back then, I found there are better quality pans out there, but for the average lake boater wanting a large capacity pan I'd think they're probably ok. What is it going for? Any idea of what they are new?

Yeah, a new kit from Dooley is ~600 bucks!  This pan on ebay is a BIN for 140 plus shipping and looks to be in decent shape just no pick up tube, which i think run around a 100 for  a new one, so id still be less than half of a new kit. 

I too have been reading that on a jet its a good idea to have larger oil capacity, but at what most of the kit run i wasn't willing to drop the cash and was just going to run my stock 6qt rear sump truck pan and maybe add a windage tray.


UPDATE:  I called Dooley about the oil pan yesterday and found out that its not one of their performance oriented pans, but a production pan they produced for Mercury Marine and it will fit my Gen 6 block and a new windage tray and pick up tube for it will run alittle over a 100 bucks, i think it has 1 trap door to where the performance pan has 2, so im still thinking for the ~280 id have invested in everything i think id be much better off than my stock truck pan.

What do you guys think?

Also wanted to ask a question about CR, i will be running AFR aluminum heads and was originally thinking about keeping my static CR around 10:1 but been reading alot of build articles and it seems guys are getting away with over 11:1  with aluminum heads and 93 pump gas, so i was thinking about going with a different piston to get right at 10.95:1 and my plan is to run a 160 thermostat and with the EFI running closed loop and with knock sensors i should be able to control any detonation.  I don't want to have to deal with octane additives and just stick with 93 pump gas.

Thanks

 

[Patchman]

I've always been told 11:1 is the max you want to go with pump gas. Detonation will kill it quick in a boat. With loud exhaust, it is hard to hear, unlike a car. If you are conservative on your timing, and the knock sensors do their job, you will probably be alright. think.gif Sounds like a score on the oil pan.  :smile30:

 

[Chevy2184]

I don't know if you would ever (feel by the seat of your pants) the difference?? Why chance it? You know you would be safe at 10:1... And not have to worry about the quality of gas you are getting at the pump... Just my 2 cents... 😎


Sent from my shop setting in my boat making motor noises

 

[Disturbed]

I don't know if you would ever (feel by the seat of your pants) the difference?? Why chance it? You know you would be safe at 10:1... And not have to worry about the quality of gas you are getting at the pump... Just my 2 cents... 😎


Sent from my shop setting in my boat making motor noises

100% agreed!  :smile30:

 

[Devilman]

Yeah, a new kit from Dooley is ~600 bucks!  This pan on ebay is a BIN for 140 plus shipping and looks to be in decent shape just no pick up tube, which i think run around a 100 for  a new one, so id still be less than half of a new kit. 

I too have been reading that on a jet its a good idea to have larger oil capacity, but at what most of the kit run i wasn't willing to drop the cash and was just going to run my stock 6qt rear sump truck pan and maybe add a windage tray.


UPDATE:  I called Dooley about the oil pan yesterday and found out that its not one of their performance oriented pans, but a production pan they produced for Mercury Marine and it will fit my Gen 6 block and a new windage tray and pick up tube for it will run alittle over a 100 bucks, i think it has 1 trap door to where the performance pan has 2, so im still thinking for the ~280 id have invested in everything i think id be much better off than my stock truck pan.

Sounds like the same pan I have. It has one trap door & one baffle I believe. Didn't come with a windage tray & I never gave much thought to adding one to be honest. I think you'll be alright with the setup you described & be $$$ ahead with a better, larger capacity pan than the stock one.

 

[73 Sanger Flat]

I would not chance it at 11:1 -- The gas you get today you can not depend on it to be acurate on the octaine .. I am running 10:22:1 and I run 92 in it and the Dyno showed it was just about right on the fuel burn .. Boats put a totally different  load on the engine than a car .. You may be OK .. 

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

Yeah and i know alot of it has to do with the cam specs as well, and the reason i was looking at running the higher CR is simply to boost power and torque.

I have several Sunoco's in my area and that's one thing they are good about is fairly good consistency in the quality of their gas, i usually run that or chevron and don't have any issues.  But i may put it about 10.5:1 and call it a happy medium.

 

[Patchman]

I agree in that you probably won't feel the difference in CR ratios. I love being able to run regular in my 460, and it will do 54 mph all day long! :smile30:

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

I agree in that you probably won't feel the difference in CR ratios. I love being able to run regular in my 460, and it will do 54 mph all day long! :smile30:

Yeah thats not bad at all...for a Ford!  LMAO  J/K patch

I know i could probably just rebuild the vortec 454 i have and make 450-500HP pretty easily and this boat would probably run ~60-65 on a smooth lake, but i want more!!  I want to be able to cruise at 50-60 and still have something left for when im feeling like i have something to prove!  LOL

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

Does anyone know of a god trailer repair place in Houston?  I want to try and figure out if this trailer i have is worth putting money into to restore it or id be better off finding a new(er) one.  Its a tandem axle, and to be honest a 4Klb single axle trailer would be more than enough for this boat, and i can save some weight overall in the process, but need to get some advice on the subject first. 

This trailer currently has a old style hydraulic surge brake setup on it that is way past its prime, and i was thinking id probably be better off with a more modern electric brake setup and again not sure its worth it to try and upgrade this one or try and sell it for whatever i can get out of it and source a new(er) one.

 

[Devilman]

Does anyone know of a god trailer repair place in Houston?  I want to try and figure out if this trailer i have is worth putting money into to restore it or id be better off finding a new(er) one.  Its a tandem axle, and to be honest a 4Klb single axle trailer would be more than enough for this boat, and i can save some weight overall in the process, but need to get some advice on the subject first. 

This trailer currently has a old style hydraulic surge brake setup on it that is way past its prime, and i was thinking id probably be better off with a more modern electric brake setup and again not sure its worth it to try and upgrade this one or try and sell it for whatever i can get out of it and source a new(er) one.

Whatever you decide to do, refurbish or replace, I would not put that boat on a single axle trailer. I'm not sure what the actual weight rating is on mine, but my set up weighs right around 3500 lbs and its pushing the limits for a single axle in my opinion. I hate hitting any sort of bumps/dips when towing as it bounces too much for my liking & I would think that Raysoncraft is a heavier boat than mine. Of course, that's just me...  I'm not sure about the Houston area, but I'm pretty sure Mike at Central Texas Jets does trailer work. I was going to talk to him about mine, but have other irons in the fire right now. He lives in Somerville, which is not too terribly far from you.

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

Does anyone know of a god trailer repair place in Houston?  I want to try and figure out if this trailer i have is worth putting money into to restore it or id be better off finding a new(er) one.  Its a tandem axle, and to be honest a 4Klb single axle trailer would be more than enough for this boat, and i can save some weight overall in the process, but need to get some advice on the subject first. 

This trailer currently has a old style hydraulic surge brake setup on it that is way past its prime, and i was thinking id probably be better off with a more modern electric brake setup and again not sure its worth it to try and upgrade this one or try and sell it for whatever i can get out of it and source a new(er) one.

Whatever you decide to do, refurbish or replace, I would not put that boat on a single axle trailer. I'm not sure what the actual weight rating is on mine, but my set up weighs right around 3500 lbs and its pushing the limits for a single axle in my opinion. I hate hitting any sort of bumps/dips when towing as it bounces too much for my liking & I would think that Raysoncraft is a heavier boat than mine. Of course, that's just me...  I'm not sure about the Houston area, but I'm pretty sure Mike at Central Texas Jets does trailer work. I was going to talk to him about mine, but have other irons in the fire right now. He lives in Somerville, which is not too terribly far from you.

Yeah your right and I was looking at etrailer.com at parts to update my trailer from the surge brakes to electric brakes and the cost was ~50 bucks per wheel which isn't to bad and I can get a new tongue either bolt on or weld on to get rid of the surge brake tongue for less that a 100 for a really nice setup, and I can get new leaf springs and and bearings/hubs for really cheap as well so I think for now atleast im gonna upgrade and update this one.  There is a place in Houston that will sandblast and paint for a decent amount.  Will probably just paint it black again and I'd like to find a set of period aluminum slot mag wheels as I think they would look pretty good.

I got the Dooley oil pan off eBay today and it looks great, has the one trap door and a baffle to control oil so it will definitely be better than the stock truck pan, will call and order the pickup tube and windage tray this next week.

Got most of my new gauges in as well,  decided on Auto Meter Pro Comp Ultra Light Marine in Silver, got all of hem I'll need except fuel pressure and the GPS speedo.  Been looking at new steering kits and I think I'm gonna get a rack style vs the rotary style but not sure if notice any difference in actual operation.

 

[SyTy Speed Shop]

May have found the perfect wheels for this boat and trailer, a set of original Mickey Thompson Aluminum Slot Mags that are 14x6.5 and 5x4.5 bolt pattern.  They are in San Antonio and he is asking 265 for the set but I offered 200.

Also I've been talking to a few shops about painting this thing and I was pretty shocked at some of the prices, and was doing some research on the whole vinyl wrap thing and contacted and well known shop in Houston that has done cars and boats before and was quoted 1800 to wrap this hull on the exterior only which was less than half of some of the paint quotes I was given and that was with me doing a lot of the prep work.  I want a dark metallic purple like the Plum Crazy Purple on the newer Dodges and asked the wrap shop what they could do and the second pic, of the Silverado, is what the guy sent as a sample.  I think it's perfect and will look awesome. 

Has anyone ever had a boat vinyl wrapped???  What do y'all think of the color?