1968 Rayson-Craft 18' Jet Resto Project
- Thread starter SyTy Speed Shop
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SyTy Speed Shop
New member
Devilman said:
Ive been thinking that as well, which is why i was looking at these Bassett thru transom headers on ebay, i think they may clear with just some minor cutting and the outlets will be higher up on the transom which i wanted to do as well, plus i was looking at some Bassett muffler tips, but not sure if that is enough to keep the noise level in check.
These are what im looking at, and have made the guy several offers with no response.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131771915355?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I like them alot better than the humped style of thru transom headers. I figured getting them ceramic coated and maybe some of the header wrap would keep the heat in check and i can then run O2's for the EFI and with the tips higher up on the transom, water reversion shouldn't be an issue.
Devilman
Well-known member
SyTy Speed Shop said:
Huh, never seen any like that before. Like something on an offshore boat or something. As long as you weren't planning on putting an engine cover on it, I guess they would be ok? They are water injected like regular O/T's, but see the transition thru the transom is plumbed for water as well, so should be fine there also. Be too hot to run in an enclosed engine compartment though I'd bet. Price seems kinda steep, but you may be at his mercy being as how there probably aren't many, if any, other sets like that out there used. Brand new set of regular O/T Bassetts are right at a grand not counting shipping (worst $$$ I ever spent btw, lol) so no telling what a new set of those would cost.
SyTy Speed Shop
New member
Patchman said:
Devilman said:
Yeah i hadn't ever seen a setup like that as well, and wasn't planning on running them wet due to the O2's for the EFI and while this boat did originally have an engine cover its long gone along with the original windshield and both of them probably impossible to find so was gonna run the engine compartment open and no windshield. I figured ceramic coated headers and transom pipes and then header wrap the transom pipes that go under the cap to keep as much heat as possible off the fiberglass. I also emailed Bassett with pics of them to try and get some more info on them. Ive offered 450, 550 and 600 for them so far and no response.
SyTy Speed Shop
New member
Picked up some 80 and 180 sanding disk's for my DA sander and hit a few spots on the hull, got down to a smooth surface pretty quick, just wish i had a bigger compressor but it will work for now, and i def need a water separator. Also got some high build primer and just need to find my spray gun. Will post up some pics of my progress over the weekend. jump.gif
SyTy Speed Shop
New member
Devilman said:SyTy Speed Shop said:
Looking forward to it.
Well i didn't make much progress this weekend, work got in the way. I took today off though so will be working on it today if we don't get anymore rain! I didn't realize it was suppose to rain last night and didn't cover it up and now i have to get some water out of it!!
SyTy Speed Shop
New member
Ok, i think ive got my idea and a plan for the interior of this beast. I want to keep it simple and as light as possible, and im going to build a sturdy but lightweight center console that will start at the back of the front buckets and go up to the bottom of the dash. Also, in an effort to keep things simple and smooth, im going to remove all the switches and key from the dash and on the original dash there will only be the steering wheel the speedo and the tach, i think im going to run the Autometer Silver Pro Comp Marine gauges,
http://www.autometer.com/gauges/marine-white.html
In the center console im going to mount the manual place diverter manual control so that it looks like a shifter, and the reverse handle next to it so that it looks like a reverse lock out lever on the old 4 speed shifters. Then on the front part of the center console that will go up and meet the bottom of the original dash, im going to mount the rest of the gauges, will be running water temp, oil pressure, volts and fuel level for sure, but also thinking about running an oil temp and fuel pressure since it will be EFI, and also a Wide Band O2 gauge to keep track of the AFR and it will make tuning alot easier, then below that ill mount the radio. The also use the back and sides of the center console to mount some speakers. Was thinking id make it the same width as the inside of the main stringers, using some lightweight 1/4 or 1/2" plywood and then fiberglassing over it.
Then run a fiberglass bench in the rear, and make some side panels to go the full length out of the same 1/4 or 1/2" ply and glass it over before adding some upholstery.
http://www.autometer.com/gauges/marine-white.html
In the center console im going to mount the manual place diverter manual control so that it looks like a shifter, and the reverse handle next to it so that it looks like a reverse lock out lever on the old 4 speed shifters. Then on the front part of the center console that will go up and meet the bottom of the original dash, im going to mount the rest of the gauges, will be running water temp, oil pressure, volts and fuel level for sure, but also thinking about running an oil temp and fuel pressure since it will be EFI, and also a Wide Band O2 gauge to keep track of the AFR and it will make tuning alot easier, then below that ill mount the radio. The also use the back and sides of the center console to mount some speakers. Was thinking id make it the same width as the inside of the main stringers, using some lightweight 1/4 or 1/2" plywood and then fiberglassing over it.
Then run a fiberglass bench in the rear, and make some side panels to go the full length out of the same 1/4 or 1/2" ply and glass it over before adding some upholstery.
SyTy Speed Shop
New member
Ok, Ive been talking back and forth with the guy on ebay with the headers, and he wont come any lower than 800, and at first i was like ok 800 shipped and he is supposed to be getting back to me, but Ive been thinking about it more and more over the weekend and im just not sure i really want to drop that much on a set of used headers, i really like the design of them, but Ive kinda been thinking about doing something else.
Since I'm going to be running EFI, i have to have an O2 sensor in each collector, which means traditional water injection into each primary tube impossible. But what if i made some water jacketed pipes that went from the end of the collectors to the transom? Could run some 4' pipes out the transom and then maybe some 5" exhaust hose over that, clamped down on the collector end with a hose fitting and then just dumped at the transom? This is just a rough idea off the top of my head.
I just scored a deal for these off the THB FB page for 250 shipped, they are the short headers with no water lines.
Since I'm going to be running EFI, i have to have an O2 sensor in each collector, which means traditional water injection into each primary tube impossible. But what if i made some water jacketed pipes that went from the end of the collectors to the transom? Could run some 4' pipes out the transom and then maybe some 5" exhaust hose over that, clamped down on the collector end with a hose fitting and then just dumped at the transom? This is just a rough idea off the top of my head.
I just scored a deal for these off the THB FB page for 250 shipped, they are the short headers with no water lines.
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SyTy Speed Shop
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I have also ordered the 20" fiberglass seats from JBP, should be be in a week or so. Then i can work on new seat mounts and the center console, also working on sending some parts back that i bought for the 454 swap into my Tahoe that i no longer need and should have most of my Autometer Marine Pro-Comp Silver gauges around the end of this month/first of next month as they are on backorder.
SyTy Speed Shop
New member
Got my headers in yesterday, one piece of the puzzle done.
Has anyone ever ran or seen the Bassett Stage 1 silencer tips? Since im looking at running these headers dry i was looking at muffler options to help keep the DB's in check so i dont get hassled by the popo.
Was also thinking about running this muffler off the header collector with a v-band setup, and still having the header, muffler and pipe out the back ceramic coated and header wrapped to control the heat and this should do a decent job of controlling the noise i would think. A hell of alt cheaper than "Boat Mufflers" lol
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-24217/overview/
Has anyone ever ran or seen the Bassett Stage 1 silencer tips? Since im looking at running these headers dry i was looking at muffler options to help keep the DB's in check so i dont get hassled by the popo.
Was also thinking about running this muffler off the header collector with a v-band setup, and still having the header, muffler and pipe out the back ceramic coated and header wrapped to control the heat and this should do a decent job of controlling the noise i would think. A hell of alt cheaper than "Boat Mufflers" lol
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-24217/overview/
customtouch
Active member
If you decide to run TT without introducing water to the exhaust somehow to cool it before exiting through the transom you will (at a minimum) damage the hull. If you go OT with the mufflers I would recommend a header brace for the added weight.