1968 Rayson-Craft 18' Jet Resto Project

SyTy Speed Shop

New member
FL350 said:
I don't know about those aluminum ones. Put a ATI damper on it and never look back.

As far as the mounts. Kinda what do you prefer? I did check with some folks and found the spacer. But I seen where you found one.

Like i said, id love to find a nice vintage, late 60's early 70's 4pt setup that is more period correct for the boat, but im also not willing to spend more than a modern rail mount setup that is probably a much better setup, so that's kinda where im at.  I like the vintage look, but then i think well im putting the modern EFI on the engine so maybe do the modern rail mounts and be done with it.
 

jdeaton

New member
Ok I will weigh in on the motor mounts and say this.  When I was in my zero balance budget days, I had way more time than I did money.  Sooo I went to my neighbor scrap metal yard and starting digging through scrape aluminum piles.  I was able to find plenty of 3/8 and 1/2 plate.  I found 3X3X3/8" angle for my rails.  I mocked up the rear motor plate and front feet with plywood then transferred the pattern to the aluminum and used a saber saw to cut the pieces, then numerous files and grinder wheels to make things flow.  Then I bought a pawn shop buffer, and a buffung wheel package with rouge to make it all pretty.  Working the pieces over with wet 1000 grit sandpaper will reduce the buffing time and give the parts a deeper luster. 

As far as the alignment/angle of the motor, you need to do your homework, and get it right the first time. 

my total cost for my mounts was around $120.00 
 

jimsplace

Active member
I think a number of us started out using what we could get ahold of and doing it the best way we could.
There's nothing wrong with that, and with a little work it can come out really nice.

There was usually a quicker and better way to do it, but either I didn't know about it or it cost a lot of money.
    :smile17:
 

SyTy Speed Shop

New member
What about these front and rear plates??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/162340709419?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Also, what is a good price to pay for a used mag/bronze aggressor A Impeller?  Used about 5 hrs?  Thinking about getting it to upgrade my aluminum impeller if i can get it for a decent price just for the piece of mind.

EDIT:  The guy is on the THB FB page and is asking 600, i offered 400, and he agreed.  He is up by Dallas so little road trip will be in order. I was looking at these new and they run alittle over 800, so i think half price for one that has been ran 5 hrs is a pretty good deal. 

Is there anything i need to look out for, besides obvious cracks or signs its been abused?
 

SyTy Speed Shop

New member
Ok, well i made a post on the THB FB page but didn't get any responses.

Seeing all the turbo and supercharged engine builds has had me thinking about doing something similar for my project, not so much for the power increase(although it cant hurt) but more for the visual impact and the Holy Shit factor...LOL  So Ive been searching around just seeing what kid of prices are out there and today i came across a brand new Procharger D1 supercharger on ebay, its the complete head unit itself and 1 crank pulley and two blower pulleys, guy had it for 1199 or best offer and i offered 700 shipped and he took it!!\

So now im looking at doing my engine build alittle different.  Ive also found a set of Ross forged pistons on ebay, they are 4.310 bore 4" stroke and flat top with one valve relief and with my stock vortec heads 100cc chambers should keep me right at the stock 9.0:1CR. Perfect for a Supercharger even with the iron heads.

Part of my inspiration for starting to look at Turbo/S/C was this article i came across while google searching:

http://www.powerperformancenews.com/tech-articles/boneyard-boost-vortech-454/

They took a stock gen 6 454(same truck motor i have) and pumped 19 PSI with a Vortech YSi supercharger with only a intake and carb swap to ditch the stock EFI and a cam swap to a comp 230/236 @.050 .547/.547 lift(max lift with stock pistons) on a 112LSA and made 791HP and 713TQ, but they don't give the RPM for either, but they do say they only turned the engine a max of 6000.  NA the engine made 427HP@5500 and 476TQ@3900

So im thinking these gen6 BBC's are pretty stout, but i will upgrade to some forged pistons and stronger rods, and keep boost around the 8-10 to start and see where things end up.  Will post up some pics once it arrives!!!
 

SyTy Speed Shop

New member
Well i haven't gotten it yet, but here are the pics from ebay, and yes should be very interesting!  Also there is a guy on the THB FB page with a brand new 6223 427 forged crank for 300 bucks that im going to buy, and run some ICON forged flat top pistons to put me right at 9.0:1CR and im going to run my 96+ vortec heads that i have with the upgraded comp cams parts, just not sure on the cam specs now.  But this was the 427 will be plenty strong to handle the full potential of the D1, not that ill ever turn it up full wick, but its nice to know i could if i so inclined!  I also scored a BBC mounting bracket off ebay late last night for 95 shipped, and another guy has a BBC 7.75 12 rib crank pulley from a procharger M4 supercharger kit and a 5.0 supercharger pulley from the same kit asking 40 for each pulley, thinking about buying but haven't pulled the trigger yet.

Using the 7.75 crank pulley and a 5.0 blower pulley, impeller speed is 44,733  with a 4.5 blower pulley is goes to 49,703 and with a 3.7 blower pulley it goes to 60,450 and with a 3.5 blower pulley it will be 63,904 and the D1 can go to 65K max impeller speed.  I'm not sure how these translate to boost pressure though.  According to Procharger a 9.0:1CR engine running ~17PSI boost will make roughly 100% more power than the NA engine, so making power wont be an issue and the D1 is rated at 925HP max.

 

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Devilman

Well-known member
I think Stuart runs a Procharger of some sort on his drag boat. No idea on how well it performs, one of the resident racer guys may know.
 

SyTy Speed Shop

New member
Patchman said:
Fuel, fuel,, fuel.  :smile17:

I'm pretty stoked myself!!  Gonna be a mean 427!!

What are some thoughts as far as Hyd vs Solid Roller?  If been considering going solid Roller as I've been reading a lot of engine failure stores due to Hyd Roller lifters coming apart, and I want to put the engine together right the first time and hopefully get 4-5 years out of without worry before I have to tear back into it, some minor maintenance like running the valves isn't that big a deal as long as I'm not having to do it every time I put the boat in the water, which may be 2-3 weekends a month on avg.

I've always said Hyd was how I wanted it, but wanted to see how others feel.  I know I'll make more power up top with the solid, but power isn't my main concern, its durability and reliability first I know with the procharger the power will be there!
 

SyTy Speed Shop

New member
Ok, figured I'd post an update, I have the procharger blower on its way, I have th mounting bracket, 3.70 blower pulley and 7.75 crank pulley(12 rib) and I have a procharger AW-504 marine intercooler.  I've been doing a lot of reading on running these blowers on a boat and started to see that running these setups with a blow thru carb actually works pretty dam good if you get the right carb.  I've also been toying with the idea of going with a carb just to keep things a lot simpler and decided to sell my Edelbrock Pro Flo EFI intake setup, sold it for 1400 complete so almost doubled my money over what I had in it. 

Ok, now my plan is an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap oval port since I'm sticking with my vortec iron heads, and I have a Mallory CT Pro Ignition box and matching coil, not sure what distributor yet as the vortec one I have won't work.  The other reason I started thinking about going with a carb is that I think I'm gonna run a solid roller cam so I don't have to worry about hydraulic rollers failing or causing high rpm valve float.  I scored a set of ICON 4032 FHR Forged pistons, IC9917-020 for 260 shipped as the .020 oversize is a discontinued size, tye have 41cc solid domes, going to send them to Rebco Machine to have the domes machined down to 11.00 cc and have the skirts coated with an anti-friction coating for 24.50 per piston, and im going to go with the SCAT Pro-Comp I beams with the 8740 ARP bolts as they should be plenty strong and at 300 bucks a sets is a hell of a deal IMO, crank is a brand new GM 6223 forged piece STD/STD and I'm gonna have everything balanced.  As of right now my cam will be a Lunati 238/248@.050 with .600/.600 lift on a 112LSA.  Also, with the modified pistons, zero deck height, .040 gasket i have and the 100cc vortec heads puts me right at 10:1 CR which i think should work out just right with the cam and the procharger.

I want this to make some great power and most important be reliable! 
 

SyTy Speed Shop

New member
Ok, I was thinking I'd just buy a set of the SCAT pro comp I-beams with the ARP bolts since I hadn't been able to find deal on a god set of the GM Dimple rods plus everyone says don't bother buying and reconditioning the GM rods cause the aftermarket rods are better. 

Well today I scored a set of the GM Dimple rods, they have brand new ARP 7/16 wave loc bolts, new Manley bronze bushings and they have been resized, magnafluxed and the beams polished and they are weight matched at 842 grams.  I got them for 200 bucks so I think I got a great deal and these are originally from a 502 crate engine and are the GM 4340 heavy duty rods they currently sell for 130 each so I think they will be just fine for my build at 6500 max rpm.

I also scored a deal on a slightly used quick fuel 750 blow thru carb that was only used a few months, it's off Daryl Graffs twin turbo LS powered boat that made 800-850 on 10psi so I think it will be a great starting point for my setup, got the carb for 300 bucks!!

It's all starting to come together! 
 

Disturbed

Active member
SyTy Speed Shop said:
Ok, I was thinking I'd just buy a set of the SCAT pro comp I-beams with the ARP bolts since I hadn't been able to find deal on a god set of the GM Dimple rods plus everyone says don't bother buying and reconditioning the GM rods cause the aftermarket rods are better. 

Well today I scored a set of the GM Dimple rods, they have brand new ARP 7/16 wave loc bolts, new Manley bronze bushings and they have been resized, magnafluxed and the beams polished and they are weight matched at 842 grams.  I got them for 200 bucks so I think I got a great deal and these are originally from a 502 crate engine and are the GM 4340 heavy duty rods they currently sell for 130 each so I think they will be just fine for my build at 6500 max rpm.

I also scored a deal on a slightly used quick fuel 750 blow thru carb that was only used a few months, it's off Daryl Graffs twin turbo LS powered boat that made 800-850 on 10psi so I think it will be a great starting point for my setup, got the carb for 300 bucks!!

It's all starting to come together!

How much boost are you thinking it will make?
 

SyTy Speed Shop

New member
DISTURBED said:
SyTy Speed Shop said:
Ok, I was thinking I'd just buy a set of the SCAT pro comp I-beams with the ARP bolts since I hadn't been able to find deal on a god set of the GM Dimple rods plus everyone says don't bother buying and reconditioning the GM rods cause the aftermarket rods are better. 

Well today I scored a set of the GM Dimple rods, they have brand new ARP 7/16 wave loc bolts, new Manley bronze bushings and they have been resized, magnafluxed and the beams polished and they are weight matched at 842 grams.  I got them for 200 bucks so I think I got a great deal and these are originally from a 502 crate engine and are the GM 4340 heavy duty rods they currently sell for 130 each so I think they will be just fine for my build at 6500 max rpm.

I also scored a deal on a slightly used quick fuel 750 blow thru carb that was only used a few months, it's off Daryl Graffs twin turbo LS powered boat that made 800-850 on 10psi so I think it will be a great starting point for my setup, got the carb for 300 bucks!!

It's all starting to come together!

How much boost are you thinking it will make?

Well the D1 is rated at a max boost of 32 PSI, the pulleys i have, 7.75 crank and 3.70 blower will put the impeller speed at 60,400 at 6500 and max speed is 65K.  I really dont know where my boost psi will be, but on a 454HO Merc Marine engine with a carb, using a 7.75 crank and 5.0 blower pulley it makes around 5-6PSI, so im thinking my pulley setup should be in the 10-12PSI range and around 700-750 max power range, but really its all a guesstimate.

My plan is to use a bypass valve and keep the boost around 5-6PSI in the beginning to get the tune dialed in, and also allow me to get used to the boat, and see how the boat likes the power and slowly raise the max boost as i go along, at this point im thinking im going to limit my max boost to the 10-12 range, but will have to see how it handles the boost once its up and running, eventually im also going to ditch the stock iron heads for a set of AFR's so that will change things as well on max boost and tune up.
 

Disturbed

Active member
SyTy Speed Shop said:
DISTURBED said:
SyTy Speed Shop said:
Ok, I was thinking I'd just buy a set of the SCAT pro comp I-beams with the ARP bolts since I hadn't been able to find deal on a god set of the GM Dimple rods plus everyone says don't bother buying and reconditioning the GM rods cause the aftermarket rods are better. 

Well today I scored a set of the GM Dimple rods, they have brand new ARP 7/16 wave loc bolts, new Manley bronze bushings and they have been resized, magnafluxed and the beams polished and they are weight matched at 842 grams.  I got them for 200 bucks so I think I got a great deal and these are originally from a 502 crate engine and are the GM 4340 heavy duty rods they currently sell for 130 each so I think they will be just fine for my build at 6500 max rpm.

I also scored a deal on a slightly used quick fuel 750 blow thru carb that was only used a few months, it's off Daryl Graffs twin turbo LS powered boat that made 800-850 on 10psi so I think it will be a great starting point for my setup, got the carb for 300 bucks!!

It's all starting to come together!

How much boost are you thinking it will make?

Well the D1 is rated at a max boost of 32 PSI, the pulleys i have, 7.75 crank and 3.70 blower will put the impeller speed at 60,400 at 6500 and max speed is 65K.  I really dont know where my boost psi will be, but on a 454HO Merc Marine engine with a carb, using a 7.75 crank and 5.0 blower pulley it makes around 5-6PSI, so im thinking my pulley setup should be in the 10-12PSI range and around 700-750 max power range, but really its all a guesstimate.

My plan is to use a bypass valve and keep the boost around 5-6PSI in the beginning to get the tune dialed in, and also allow me to get used to the boat, and see how the boat likes the power and slowly raise the max boost as i go along, at this point im thinking im going to limit my max boost to the 10-12 range, but will have to see how it handles the boost once its up and running, eventually im also going to ditch the stock iron heads for a set of AFR's so that will change things as well on max boost and tune up.

What kind of fuel?
 

SyTy Speed Shop

New member
DISTURBED said:
SyTy Speed Shop said:
DISTURBED said:
SyTy Speed Shop said:
Ok, I was thinking I'd just buy a set of the SCAT pro comp I-beams with the ARP bolts since I hadn't been able to find deal on a god set of the GM Dimple rods plus everyone says don't bother buying and reconditioning the GM rods cause the aftermarket rods are better. 

Well today I scored a set of the GM Dimple rods, they have brand new ARP 7/16 wave loc bolts, new Manley bronze bushings and they have been resized, magnafluxed and the beams polished and they are weight matched at 842 grams.  I got them for 200 bucks so I think I got a great deal and these are originally from a 502 crate engine and are the GM 4340 heavy duty rods they currently sell for 130 each so I think they will be just fine for my build at 6500 max rpm.

I also scored a deal on a slightly used quick fuel 750 blow thru carb that was only used a few months, it's off Daryl Graffs twin turbo LS powered boat that made 800-850 on 10psi so I think it will be a great starting point for my setup, got the carb for 300 bucks!!

It's all starting to come together!

How much boost are you thinking it will make?

Well the D1 is rated at a max boost of 32 PSI, the pulleys i have, 7.75 crank and 3.70 blower will put the impeller speed at 60,400 at 6500 and max speed is 65K.  I really dont know where my boost psi will be, but on a 454HO Merc Marine engine with a carb, using a 7.75 crank and 5.0 blower pulley it makes around 5-6PSI, so im thinking my pulley setup should be in the 10-12PSI range and around 700-750 max power range, but really its all a guesstimate.

My plan is to use a bypass valve and keep the boost around 5-6PSI in the beginning to get the tune dialed in, and also allow me to get used to the boat, and see how the boat likes the power and slowly raise the max boost as i go along, at this point im thinking im going to limit my max boost to the 10-12 range, but will have to see how it handles the boost once its up and running, eventually im also going to ditch the stock iron heads for a set of AFR's so that will change things as well on max boost and tune up.

What kind of fuel?

93 pump gas, static CR of 10.0:1
 

Disturbed

Active member
SyTy Speed Shop said:
DISTURBED said:
SyTy Speed Shop said:
DISTURBED said:
SyTy Speed Shop said:
Ok, I was thinking I'd just buy a set of the SCAT pro comp I-beams with the ARP bolts since I hadn't been able to find deal on a god set of the GM Dimple rods plus everyone says don't bother buying and reconditioning the GM rods cause the aftermarket rods are better. 

Well today I scored a set of the GM Dimple rods, they have brand new ARP 7/16 wave loc bolts, new Manley bronze bushings and they have been resized, magnafluxed and the beams polished and they are weight matched at 842 grams.  I got them for 200 bucks so I think I got a great deal and these are originally from a 502 crate engine and are the GM 4340 heavy duty rods they currently sell for 130 each so I think they will be just fine for my build at 6500 max rpm.

I also scored a deal on a slightly used quick fuel 750 blow thru carb that was only used a few months, it's off Daryl Graffs twin turbo LS powered boat that made 800-850 on 10psi so I think it will be a great starting point for my setup, got the carb for 300 bucks!!

It's all starting to come together!

How much boost are you thinking it will make?

Well the D1 is rated at a max boost of 32 PSI, the pulleys i have, 7.75 crank and 3.70 blower will put the impeller speed at 60,400 at 6500 and max speed is 65K.  I really dont know where my boost psi will be, but on a 454HO Merc Marine engine with a carb, using a 7.75 crank and 5.0 blower pulley it makes around 5-6PSI, so im thinking my pulley setup should be in the 10-12PSI range and around 700-750 max power range, but really its all a guesstimate.

My plan is to use a bypass valve and keep the boost around 5-6PSI in the beginning to get the tune dialed in, and also allow me to get used to the boat, and see how the boat likes the power and slowly raise the max boost as i go along, at this point im thinking im going to limit my max boost to the 10-12 range, but will have to see how it handles the boost once its up and running, eventually im also going to ditch the stock iron heads for a set of AFR's so that will change things as well on max boost and tune up.

What kind of fuel?

93 pump gas, static CR of 10.0:1

You might want to check this out.  http://goodvibesracing.com/Compression_Ratio.htm
 
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