77Jet Star
Active member
Hang in there you will make it happen clap.gifspd500 said:
Project X
- Thread starter spd500
- Start date
Last Mohecian
Administrator
More pics please! :smile16:
blazeracer
New member
Looks like what I went through last winter!! Keep at it man.
spd500
New member
Last Mohican said:
Not alot to see yet , but here are some pics of the progress so far .
Right after we started sanding
My helper on this project
The original gel had some crazy looking designs in it . That was the 70s .
As of right now most of the front deck is sanded good enough to start working on it . I have been mainly block sanding by hand so far , my big compressor keeps popping the breaker . I am going to get a friend of mine to bring over a meter and see if the motor is going out or if it is just the breaker . I have never used the big compressor here at the shop , so it might just be a matter of running a circut for it .
spd500
New member
Well , I think I figured it out . This boat was stripped with a razor blade , and it has gouges into the gel under the old white paint . I kept thinking that there were ridges in the paint , even mention that maybe they painted it with a brush , lol . Now that I am getting into block sanding the gunnels I can tell where the problem came from . I am not sure just how far to sand the old paint down to with this being the case , guess I will ask around .
Michael Swindoll
New member
spd500 said:
Put it like this! your paint is only going to be good as whats under it! so if there is doubt that it will peel then yours is going to peel off with it!!
my .02
spd500
New member
Looking at all the info online it looks like the longer the primer cures the less chance you have of it shrinking later . I am thinking maybe get all the body work done and a few good coats of high build primer , then take a break and get the motor in and running before doing final blocking and painting . That will give the high build plenty of time to cure before I block it to paint . Is that about the right plan , or is there such a thing as too long of a cure time ?
blazeracer
New member
I think there is a time limit on that stuff. Primer is more of a bonding agent than skin that can shrink. I've heard that, but I'm no painting expert either. The primer should adhere to whatever is under it while filling in small, very small imperfections while sealing the surface underneath. Then provide a uniform surface above for the paint to adhere to.
Probably a paint guy could chime in better.
I imagine is depends a lot on what kind of stuff you're spraying also. I used all epoxy materials on my boat so drying times were quick. On a warm day that stuff is ready to sand and paint in 30 minutes. I know the guy that does custom paint on bikes by where my old shop was said if he had to wait more then 30 minutes between coats he'd go out of business, and his shit looks damn good. He did our Tahoe after Maria drug the side of it against the bumper on the short wide. You would never know by looking at it.
Probably a paint guy could chime in better.
I imagine is depends a lot on what kind of stuff you're spraying also. I used all epoxy materials on my boat so drying times were quick. On a warm day that stuff is ready to sand and paint in 30 minutes. I know the guy that does custom paint on bikes by where my old shop was said if he had to wait more then 30 minutes between coats he'd go out of business, and his shit looks damn good. He did our Tahoe after Maria drug the side of it against the bumper on the short wide. You would never know by looking at it.
spd500
New member
blazeracer said:
I think you are refering to the flash time , or the time you have to wait to respray without having to sand . I am talking about the highbuild primer that I am planning to sand after it cures for whatever amount of time . Not sure if it is better to sand sooner or wait and let it "shrink" , I just heard that the high build has alot of shrinkage over time .
77Jet Star
Active member
Back in the day I was using a product called Rust Defender it was a high build primer with a hardener made for metal and fiberglass applications don't know if they still make it or not but I used it on fiberglass and never had any shrinkage problems dried quick covered great and blocked real easy. I never used any sealer just primed sanded and painted
77Jet Star
Active member
Here ya Go http://www.clausenautobody.com/proddetail.php?prod=rust-defender check it out great stuff
spd500
New member
I may have to check that out . I am not really planning on having many areas where the primer shrinkage will be a issue , but want the best results possible . It is still a half ass paint job , done by myself , in the garage instead of a paint booth . I know it isnt going to be perfect , but if I aim for half assed it is going to be really f'd up . If I aim for perfect , it might be decent .