Project X

spd500

New member
Actually , if you read the post the problem is that my dipstick is wayy too bigg  :smile26: I am going to have to cut it down a little  :smile18:
 

blazeracer

New member
I guess we all have our own opinion of what big is.. LOL

And if she tells you she doesn't like em too big anyway.. It's way too small. LOLOL
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
spd500 said:
Ok , the dipstick situation . The pressed in part of the dipstick is the same diameter as the rest of the tube , but has a small o-ring groove to seal it . If I cut down the dipstick tube and only use the top six inches or so of the tube I will have the flared part that holds the dipstick itself . With not having the oring , or a bolt to secure the tube , I will need something to seal it and hold it in place . Do you guys think lock tight would be good for this ?

Can you get someone to roll a groove into it for the o-ring after you cut it down?  I don't think loctite is a good solution.  That pic is pretty much useless.  It just looks like a blurry stick.  Nice thing is you can push that roll pin out of the handle and cut the dipstick down by the same amount as the tube.
 

blazeracer

New member
spd500 said:
Ok , the dipstick situation . The pressed in part of the dipstick is the same diameter as the rest of the tube , but has a small o-ring groove to seal it . If I cut down the dipstick tube and only use the top six inches or so of the tube I will have the flared part that holds the dipstick itself . With not having the oring , or a bolt to secure the tube , I will need something to seal it and hold it in place . Do you guys think lock tight would be good for this ?

How about cut your 6" off the TOP and use a flaring tool to open it back up so the stick will go back in? I flare tubing all day long doing fridges..
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
blazeracer said:
How about cut your 6" off the TOP and use a flaring tool to open it back up so the stick will go back in? I flare tubing all day long doing fridges..

Not sure why but that sounds like something Cliff would say. :smile29:
 

spd500

New member
I was going to cut 6" off the top , and throw out the rest of it . I want to make the dipstick small enough to be below the exhaust . That will leave me without a bolt to hold it in place . I am more concerned with it wiggling loose than I am about it leaking . I can seal it easy enough , but I dont want it to be too loose in the hole . BTW , yes I am actually talking about the dipstick for the motor . Yall are just hating because you only wish you had too much dipstick  :smile30:
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
spd500 said:
I was going to cut 6" off the top , and throw out the rest of it . I want to make the dipstick small enough to be below the exhaust . That will leave me without a bolt to hold it in place . I am more concerned with it wiggling loose than I am about it leaking . I can seal it easy enough , but I dont want it to be too loose in the hole . BTW , yes I am actually talking about the dipstick for the motor . Yall are just hating because you only wish you had too much dipstick  :smile30:

Drill and tap a small hole in the side of the block entering the dipstick tube hole.  Once the dipstick tube is in put an allen set screw in to hold it.  Done!!!
 

customtouch

Active member
Hey spd, I have a suggestion for you. Since you seem to like the "metal flake" look, you should go get you some PPG DX-78 to add to your purple and blue paint. It is a multicolor pear that gives off a wild (almost bass boat looking) glitter when the sun hits it. Out of the light, you don't see it at all. It does not change anything on how the paints sprays and will work through any size spray tip. It is just the flake (no liquid) so it is compatible with any paint. It should be around $100 a bottle but trust me on this, YOU WILL LOVE IT. One bottle should easily do both colors especially if you just add it to the top coats. It will be some of the best money you spend on your boat.  :smile17:
 

spd500

New member
I will check into that , it sounds pretty cool . I was actually looking at a can of HOK flakes over at a friends shop the other day , but talked myself out of it because he said its really hard to work with .
 

customtouch

Active member
He is right. True metal flake is not for an unseasoned painter. If you have a PPG dealer around you they will have an example of it on their prizmatic paint swatches. If not I can send you one. It will give you an idea of the effect but it is a little different (actually better) when you just mix it in the paint.
 

spd500

New member
How about something like this one that shifts from blue to purple ? Would it just make the boat look one color ?

http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=KUS+RP51-1Z
 

customtouch

Active member
spd500 said:
How about something like this one that shifts from blue to purple ? Would it just make the boat look one color ?

http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=KUS+RP51-1Z

Those look like actual metal flakes which would be the same as the HOK. The DX is more of a pearl not a flake. I have not seen anything else be as simple yet effective as the DX-78 and I have played with a lot of stuff.  :grin:
 

customtouch

Active member
Ok, I went back and looked again and I was looking at the chart of flakes below what you were trying to show me. What you are looking at appears to be a color shifting or camelion type pearl that you spray (mid-coat) on top of the colors. You will not get the glitter effect from it and normally those work better on top of nonmetallic colors.
 

spd500

New member
Ok , I see what you mean . I will check into the one you mentioned . I found the one I posted by doing a search for the one you mentioned . But if the other has more of a metallic effect to it that is probably better for the boat .
 

spd500

New member
Is it best to mix this stuff into the paint , or into a mid coat clear , or maybe just mix it into the first coat of clear ? I am going to be putting several coats of clear so I have enough to be able to wet sand and buff out trash from not painting in a booth . I can also buy the midcoat clear pretty reasonable in the same paint lline as the paint , so that isnt a big deal either .
 
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