customtouch
Active member
Here is a picture of what you are looking for and one of the bottle in the sun. The camera can't pick it up real well but you get a little idea of the glitter effect. This stuff is awesome!
Project X
- Thread starter spd500
- Start date
Last Mohecian
Administrator
spd500 said:
That is pretty much what Impatient1 did.
http://www.performanceboats.com/jet-boats/62463-wasted-incomes-lsx-into-avenger-jet-boat-build.html#post1058753
customtouch
Active member
The amount of pearl you add will probably be something like that. It depends on how transparent your colors are. The more transparent it is, the less you need. I always just add some in, stir it up and check the stick until I get the effect I want. It is very precise. LOL! :grin:
spd500
New member
Ok , here is what I came up with for the dipstick .
The dipstick tube from a regular truck motor
Trim a little off with tubing cutters
Cut the exact same amount off of the dipstick as you cut off of the tube
Install in motor
I still need to take it out and drill and tap for a set screw to hold it still then reinstall with sealant . Also , it is important to note that the dipstick originally had a shoulder stop , now it doesn't . I scribed a line on the dipstick tube so I know how deep in the block to install it , or you could put a tiny tack weld on it to know how deep into the block it goes . I then lined up the new dipstick with the old end and drillled the holes for "full" and "add" so I have an exact measurement the same as when it came from the factory .
The dipstick tube from a regular truck motor
Trim a little off with tubing cutters
Cut the exact same amount off of the dipstick as you cut off of the tube
Install in motor
I still need to take it out and drill and tap for a set screw to hold it still then reinstall with sealant . Also , it is important to note that the dipstick originally had a shoulder stop , now it doesn't . I scribed a line on the dipstick tube so I know how deep in the block to install it , or you could put a tiny tack weld on it to know how deep into the block it goes . I then lined up the new dipstick with the old end and drillled the holes for "full" and "add" so I have an exact measurement the same as when it came from the factory .
Last Mohecian
Administrator
Good job. I am pretty sure that Yellow end is held on with a roll pin. You could have pressed the pin out and cut the dipstick off from the top to maintain the factory marking on the dipstick.
spd500
New member
I am not sure what the pro's use for thier guide coat , but mine is 5 cans of $1.25 flat black spray paint from Dollar General :smile30: I don't see the point in spending much money on paint that I am going to sand back off crazy.gif Hopefully it sands down nice and smooth and it will be ready for paint .
Malibu Surfer
New member
spd500, that is exactly what I use. No need to spend $5 a can for brand name guide coat...It's probably the same stuff anyways!!! Sand /seal / shoot!!! That's usually my schedule 
spd500
New member
The primer that I am using is supposed to have the sealer in it , so unless I sand through it I am not supposed to need a sealer . Thats what I was told by the PPG dealer anyway . Do you seal even if the primer has a sealer in it , or do you use a primer that doesnt have sealer in it ?
Malibu Surfer
New member
I can't speak for PPG as their out of my budget usually unless customer requests it, but if it's a primer/sealer I'd say your good to go. If your jobber (that you trust) says your ok, go for it. (I'm a Valspar/ProSpray guy - always had good luck with their products).
Personally I use just a primer/surfacer, then a sealer coat after I'm happy.
I do this for two reasons, If I have a low or high spot my primer surfacer that I may have missed, it will fill hopefully, and if not, the sealer will. My 2nd reason is just one more complete look/see at the hull (or panel). I do it this way as I am 100% sure I have no sand scratches that will show thru. That is just me, but my #1 pet peave with paint is sand scratches.
I am not a production shop, so I have the time to do one more step to insure I'm happy, and customer or myself will be happy...
Personally I use just a primer/surfacer, then a sealer coat after I'm happy.
I do this for two reasons, If I have a low or high spot my primer surfacer that I may have missed, it will fill hopefully, and if not, the sealer will. My 2nd reason is just one more complete look/see at the hull (or panel). I do it this way as I am 100% sure I have no sand scratches that will show thru. That is just me, but my #1 pet peave with paint is sand scratches.
I am not a production shop, so I have the time to do one more step to insure I'm happy, and customer or myself will be happy...
Last Mohecian
Administrator
spd500 said:
Forgot about the end being thinner. Good call.
spd500
New member
Ok , just wondering . I have not really been planning on using a sealer because I was told that I didn't need it with the products that I am using . But I do agree on the extra once over to make sure there are no spots you missed before painting the boat . I am going over mine block sanding now and hopefully it will be straight enough to paint by the end of the week . I am in no way a professional or even very experienced at this stuff , so it probably takes me alot more time than it would take you or any other professional . I am sure even though I am putting all the hours into trying to d othe best I can it will still have some areas that could look better when it's all finished .Malibu Surfer said:
Malibu Surfer
New member
There are alway something you do that you can see that will bug you. The secret is more than likely no one else can see it but you!!! Sounds like your putting a lot of time into it, and it will pay off!! Paint/body is 90% prep. If you are using base/clear, most issues arise in the clear which can be buffed out!!!