Project X

spd500

New member
I can't wait . I am heading over to see what I can do about fuel tanks this morning , once that is taken care of the rest should be easy .
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
Shannon, I would not cut those wires until you have it running.  Just wind them up and wire tie them.  A cold solder joint could take hours to sort out.  You will have enough to sort out once you get that thing started.  Leave it like it is and it will be one less variable.  It can always be cleaned up later.  Just my .02
 

ChryslerJet

New member
Last Mohican said:
Shannon, I would not cut those wires until you have it running.  Just wind them up and wire tie them.  A cold solder joint could take hours to sort out.  You will have enough to sort out once you get that thing started.  Leave it like it is and it will be one less variable.  It can always be cleaned up later.  Just my .02
X2 I agree with this don't make it any harder than you have to in order to get it running.
 

blazeracer

New member
Once it comes time, every connection on my boat where two wires are spliced together I use these. Strip, crimp, heat shrink, done. They do NOT come loose once you put heat to them and are 100% water proof. You get a super clean install too.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_11151_10001_35776_-1?cid=chanintel_google&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=35776
 

Crusader

Moderator
blazeracer said:
Once it comes time, every connection on my boat where two wires are spliced together I use these. Strip, crimp, heat shrink, done. They do NOT come loose once you put heat to them and are 100% water proof. You get a super clean install too.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_11151_10001_35776_-1?cid=chanintel_google&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=35776

James, that's what I use now. Harbor Freight sells marine connectors like that very cheap.
 

customtouch

Active member
blazeracer said:
Once it comes time, every connection on my boat where two wires are spliced together I use these. Strip, crimp, heat shrink, done. They do NOT come loose once you put heat to them and are 100% water proof. You get a super clean install too.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_11151_10001_35776_-1?cid=chanintel_google&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=35776

Do you consider these to be a better option (functionally) then soldering? 
 

spd500

New member
I was thinking about it last night , and I think I will wait to shorten the harness until the boat is together and running . As for the connectors , I don't use crimp connectors . If you solder and heat shrink the connections the same way it's done at the factory you will never have another problem with it . I have had way too many problems with crimp connectors in the past to trust them for something as important as the ignition system on the boat . If it were trailer lights , or a radio , I might consider them . But not for this stuff . One bad connector can leave you stranded on the lake .
 

blazeracer

New member
customtouch said:
blazeracer said:
Once it comes time, every connection on my boat where two wires are spliced together I use these. Strip, crimp, heat shrink, done. They do NOT come loose once you put heat to them and are 100% water proof. You get a super clean install too.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_11151_10001_35776_-1?cid=chanintel_google&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=35776

Do you consider these to be a better option (functionally) then soldering?

Yes I do. You can run a connection made correctly with these underwater. That heat shrink that the factories use is an insulator, nothing more. Water resistant at best. They are trying only to stay legal while keeping costs down. These cost a little more but work way better. That's my .02 on it, and my boat is full of them to prove it.

I didn't see the ones at Harbor Freight that Cliff is talking about, but I've never really looked either. The real marine ones have an adhesive inside the heat shrink that totally seals the connection 5 seconds after the heat is removed. You can see it bead out when it shrinks.

Nothing wrong with solder and heat shrink either. It will work just at well. A little more work to get it together IMO. A heatgun is easier to work than a solder gun.

Here's a quick vid. You can see the little glue beads on the tips. TOTALLY water proof and never coming apart.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdBcPJ7Dtaw&feature=related

My entire DBW is done just like this.
 

blazeracer

New member
spd500 said:
I was thinking about it last night , and I think I will wait to shorten the harness until the boat is together and running . As for the connectors , I don't use crimp connectors . If you solder and heat shrink the connections the same way it's done at the factory you will never have another problem with it . I have had way too many problems with crimp connectors in the past to trust them for something as important as the ignition system on the boat . If it were trailer lights , or a radio , I might consider them . But not for this stuff . One bad connector can leave you stranded on the lake .

Regular crimp connector are a no-go, heat shrink crimp connectors are the only way to go. You can get a 5 pack at HD or Lowes for a couple of bucks and try a few out. You'll like them. The package will have water droplets on the printed part for the waterproof ones. NOT the insulated ones, they don't shrink.
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
The key is a good set of ratcheting crimpers.  This is like an oil debate, Ford VS Chevy, Epoxy VS Poly etc...  There are pros and cons to both solder and crimps.  Personally, from my experience in motor controls, cable building and working on my A/P, I prefer well made crimps over solder.
 

Disturbed

Active member
Last Mohican said:
The key is a good set of ratcheting crimpers.  This is like an oil debate, Ford VS Chevy, Epoxy VS Poly etc...  There are pros and cons to both solder and crimps.  Personally, from my experience in motor controls, cable building and working on my A/P, I prefer well made crimps over solder.

x2  :smile30:
 

spd500

New member
I have never used , or even seen the connectors that have heat shrink on them . I will check into it , that might be an option . The main problem I have with crimp connectors is that sooner or later they end up with corrosion in them , heat shrink would help prevent that .
 

ChryslerJet

New member
spd500 said:
I have never used , or even seen the connectors that have heat shrink on them . I will check into it , that might be an option . The main problem I have with crimp connectors is that sooner or later they end up with corrosion in them , heat shrink would help prevent that .
Before the heat shrink crimp connectors under the hood of a car I would put heat shrink over the connector kinda like a double insulation but then sealing the connection.
 

Crusader

Moderator
The connectors I'm talking about are marine with the adhesive inside of them. Harbor Frieght also sells the marine heat shrink too....with the melting adhesive in it....
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
blazeracer said:
A/P? A$$ Packing?? LOL

Ain't nothing wrong with a good solder and wrap, I just prefer these. Easier to make too IMO.

Airframe & Powerplant.  Spent an entire semester on nothing but nuts and bolts.  You would be surprised at how technical the smallest things can get when you are dealing with the FAA.
 
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