Enforcer Project renamed, Junk Yard Dog.

KONA77

New member
mine has it,  and i'm sure your glastron does also, otherwize i would believe there would have been alot of racket back there...
 

blazeracer

New member
Little black rubber thing on the pump did the trick. It's snug as a bug in a rug now. Next is to get it angled just right and bolt the front mounts in. Slightly up in front, correct??
 

KONA77

New member
blazeracer said:
Little black rubber thing on the pump did the trick. It's snug as a bug in a rug now. Next is to get it angled just right and bolt the front mounts in. Slightly up in front, correct??


that's my understanding
 

Crusader

Moderator
My understanding is that you want the angle to be nearly as perfect a straight line as you can get with no more than a 3 degree difference between the pump shaft and engine.
 

WAFOBABY

New member
James what did you do with the knock sencer stuff that was on this motor ????  just asking Im fixing to replace mine on my truck and they say they are know for breaking the clip when you take them out.... 
 

blazeracer

New member
WAFOBABY said:
James what did you do with the knock sencer stuff that was on this motor ????  just asking Im fixing to replace mine on my truck and they say they are know for breaking the clip when you take them out....

There's a clip?
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
WAFOBABY said:
Thxs Spd 500 I will hauler hopefully I wont need anything.  YES James there is a clip Two one on each side.

Aren't they the same as the LS1?  There was no clip on the sensor.  They screw in under the plenum.  Maybe you are talking about the wiring harness.  I just bought a new harness when I did mine. It was cheap and saved me from being worried about it.
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
Crusader said:
My understanding is that you want the angle to be nearly as perfect a straight line as you can get with no more than a 3 degree difference between the pump shaft and engine.

You do not want it perfectly straight.  You need 2-3 degrees of angle so the u-joint will work.  If it is perfectly straight you will have a vibration. Typically what you see is the CL of the crank is in line with the CL of the pump shaft front to back.  Then the front of the engine is dropped to give a 2-3 degree difference between the crank and pump shaft.  I think that is what you are saying but just wanted to be sure.
 

blazeracer

New member
Last Mohican said:
WAFOBABY said:
Thxs Spd 500 I will hauler hopefully I wont need anything.  YES James there is a clip Two one on each side.

Aren't they the same as the LS1?  There was no clip on the sensor.  They screw in under the plenum.  Maybe you are talking about the wiring harness.  I just bought a new harness when I did mine. It was cheap and saved me from being worried about it.

The sensor itself just had a rubber bushing. There was a plastic clip for the wire, like Matt said.
 

spd500

New member
Are you going to weld up the sensor holes on your valley pan , or just plug the holes with the sensors and cut the wires off ? Im kinda leaning towards just leaving the sensors and cytting the wires off , but not sure yet .
 

Crusader

Moderator
Last Mohican said:
Crusader said:
My understanding is that you want the angle to be nearly as perfect a straight line as you can get with no more than a 3 degree difference between the pump shaft and engine.

You do not want it perfectly straight.  You need 2-3 degrees of angle so the u-joint will work.  If it is perfectly straight you will have a vibration. Typically what you see is the CL of the crank is in line with the CL of the pump shaft front to back.  Then the front of the engine is dropped to give a 2-3 degree difference between the crank and pump shaft.  I think that is what you are saying but just wanted to be sure.

Thanks Matt, that's exactly what I intended to say..... I should have been more clear on the centerline and engine angle statements.

 

blazeracer

New member
spd500 said:
Are you going to weld up the sensor holes on your valley pan , or just plug the holes with the sensors and cut the wires off ? Im kinda leaning towards just leaving the sensors and cytting the wires off , but not sure yet .

Two points here.......

1. The knock sensors are an integral part of the ignition system. They are there to provide retard to prevent damage. They do their job great. Mine are staying. I would think the MSD had them incorperated into the system also seeing how it completely rely's on the sensors to electronically set your timing. I suppose if the MSD doesn't use the knock sensors they could be blocked off. Would have to get with MSD on that I guess.

2. This boat is getting a big block FORD motor in it. LOL (for now)
 

Crusader

Moderator
blazeracer said:
spd500 said:
Are you going to weld up the sensor holes on your valley pan , or just plug the holes with the sensors and cut the wires off ? Im kinda leaning towards just leaving the sensors and cytting the wires off , but not sure yet .

Two points here.......

1. The knock sensors are an integral part of the ignition system. They are there to provide retard to prevent damage. They do their job great. Mine are staying. I would think the MSD had them incorperated into the system also seeing how it completely rely's on the sensors to electronically set your timing. I suppose if the MSD doesn't use the knock sensors they could be blocked off. Would have to get with MSD on that I guess.

2. This boat is getting a big block FORD motor in it. LOL (for now)

Good point.

Phew, I'm glad you're not totally defecting to the Bowtie bro...
 

spd500

New member
Msd only uses crank , cam , and map sensors . The map sensor is optional . It sets timing based on crank and cam position .
 

blazeracer

New member
spd500 said:
Msd only uses crank , cam , and map sensors . The map sensor is optional . It sets timing based on crank and cam position .

Yeah, I was reading that after I made that last post, then got to working on other crap all day long. The MSD does offer a knock sensor option, but it doesn't use the GM factory knock sensors. It has it's own dedicated sensor that goes on the side of the block. You should be able to close them up, but you might consider just putting the sensors in and not connecting them up just to the don't leak. Then if you decide to go with EFI next year you just plug them in. They aren't going to make a difference being there or not, unless you are really looking to shave all the weight you can. They're probably good for a 1/4 pound.

Hey Cliff, the Enforcer will for sure get back in the water with a Ford, but that doesn't mean it won't get converted next winter to LS power. We'll see how the LS works out in the Glastron and go from there.
 

krash74

New member
blazeracer said:
Yeah, got a title with it. Looks like I found some Chevy headers for $300. Can't beat that. I'll know more tomorrow, but I took it to Lavon tonight to show it. Now it will go under a cover till summer is over while I run lots of gas through the Glastron.

For this boat, I just want to get it rescued, running reliably, and back on the water for cheap and get it moved to a loving home for a small rehoming fee. Then be on the lookout for a TX-19 for an LSX motor.
i have a loving home for it. im just sayin lol  :smile17:
 
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