Enforcer Project renamed, Junk Yard Dog.
- Thread starter blazeracer
- Start date
duanehydro
Active member
On my daycruiser, we cut the inside layer of glass, dug out the wood, used 3/4" marine plywood cut to fit in sections, added resin and clamped it to the hull with large homemade clamps. Then reglassed and added splatter to help hide any repairs. There are detailed pictures on my hotboatpics account, I just can't access from work because of this stupid Websense crap..
Just go to www.hotboatpics.com and type in duane for all my pictures. (about 30 pages, somewhere around page 13-17 I think, there are many projects from the past in there.)
Just go to www.hotboatpics.com and type in duane for all my pictures. (about 30 pages, somewhere around page 13-17 I think, there are many projects from the past in there.)
blazeracer
New member
Duanehydro said:
One thing I've learned is pay attention to someone who has been there and done that. 3/4" is what's in it now.
The reason for standing the boat up on end is because to get thickness you go wet on wet on wet on wet on wet alternating matt, then cloth, then matt, then cloth then matt agian.
For wood, wet coat the transom, lay on matt, another wet coat then clamp a 3/4" ply. Then outer coat with a layer of matt then cloth and be done with it. It will be strong and last forever which is great for a non racing lake boat.
Was looking at the stringers today. Will probably go with full replacement if I can get 16' long lumber. This will be a new boat when it's done.
spd500
New member
blazeracer said:
I couldn't agree more . But there is no reason to stand the boat on it's end to do the fiberglass repair you are talking about . Even if you planned on making it 3" thick there would be no reason to stand the boat on it's end to do it . There are a few people here that have done the job before , and even more over on PB . Ask around and get advice from people who have personally done the job . I know a little about it , and have seen ones that were done , but I am by no means a fiberglass professional . I have a few people that I ask advice from when I am doing anything with fiberglass , if you want I can give you a few phone numbers of guys that know thier stuff and don't mind sharing information .
blazeracer
New member
I don't have enough room to stand it up anyway. That was just a suggestion. Makes sense to get a real nice layup with out having to mix the resin hot and not get any sag in the matt. I've had cloth sag just doing stringers. vertical can be a challenge without mixing it too hot, which greatly reduces the strength.
Today, got most of the pump parts media blasted. Still have the bowl to do, but I need to replace the blast media. I'm spending more time getting the glass bead to flow than actual blasting. I have a donor oven in the shop so I can start powder coating parts tomorrow, hopefully. We're pretty busy with pop warner football this weekend.
Today, got most of the pump parts media blasted. Still have the bowl to do, but I need to replace the blast media. I'm spending more time getting the glass bead to flow than actual blasting. I have a donor oven in the shop so I can start powder coating parts tomorrow, hopefully. We're pretty busy with pop warner football this weekend.
blazeracer
New member
Crusader said:
How much did they run?
duanehydro
Active member
OK, At home, pulled up the pics, and all I have is before and after on that boat. :smile19: , using the method we were talking about.....we used the welders style vice grips around the inside diameter of where the pump sits, and used some 3' c-clamps for the rest. Adhesion is your friend..... :smile30:
once that dried, it was all gravy.
once that dried, it was all gravy.
blazeracer
New member
Cut the front skin off the transom. The innards completely fell apart. The plugs for the exhaust, one was bondo and the other was bondo-glass. CRAP!!! There were a couple of patches in there also. This wasn't the first time this transom was uncovered. Obviously the previous owner was NOT a member here.
Attachments
duanehydro
Active member
awesome part is, you're already there, and ready.... clap.gif
blazeracer
New member
What's the best place to get fiberglass product? Probably go with epoxy resin and 20 yards of 10oz woven cloth.
http://www.uscomposites.com/cloth.html
http://www.amazon.com/AeroMarine-300-Epoxy-Resin-Gallon/dp/B0047R0I18/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_0_2
On track, too much, need more for full stringers and transom??
http://www.uscomposites.com/cloth.html
http://www.amazon.com/AeroMarine-300-Epoxy-Resin-Gallon/dp/B0047R0I18/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_0_2
On track, too much, need more for full stringers and transom??
blazeracer
New member
KONA said:
I was looking at them. They have the same 10 oz E cloth linked above for $8.35/yd. Have to check shipping too. I have about a 1/2 gallon of 3M resin left from the Glastron that has surfacing agent in it. I'll use that for the final top coat.
spd500
New member
You might want to ask around a little , but from what I understand it is best to use the cloth and the chopped mat . The way I was told is that the cloth will tear easily if it ever gets a weak spot . The mat does not have the straight lines in the material like the cloth does , and is less likely to tear . Not really 100% sure on it though , I am just learning a little about glass work myself .
blazeracer
New member
I used cloth on the Glastron and it was a pain. From what I've read mat is what's used in boat construction and is way stronger. I know everything I cut out was mat and was still wicked strong. Can get a 4" wide cloth roll for seams also.