duanehydro
Active member
ok.... :smile29:
I was gonna send you a set, but ok. crazy.gif
I was gonna send you a set, but ok. crazy.gif
460 buildup
- Thread starter blazeracer
- Start date
blazeracer
New member
Duanehydro said:
Yeah, I appreciate it. I didn't read the post and already emailed the guy that told me the Ford ones were backordered and had him send them. He has the others in stock and I already paid. In fact, I think I get a bit of a refund, like $40 or something.
blazeracer
New member
ARP cylinder head studs arrived.... Need to get them slugs in the holes..
blazeracer
New member
Hard to get anything done at work when I keep getting interrupted. The UPS guy showed up again. Of course had to test fit, piston to valve clearance looks good but will verify with some playdough later today.
Oops.. how'd that other pic get in there??
Oops.. how'd that other pic get in there??
Attachments
Knotty Girl
New member
That is just three rockers in a row! clap.gif
Last Mohecian
Administrator
can you mix pedestal mounts and "Shaft mounts" like that????? :smile26:
blazeracer
New member
Last Mohican said:
The new heads require shaft mounts, so those three will work just fine being shaft mounted. LOL
blazeracer
New member
Hey Cliff, we were talking about timing marks when installing the cam at lunch the other day. Here's from cam installation instructions...
"Check your manual again for the proper timing mark positions and make sure that both camshaft
timing mark (6 o’clock) and crankshaft timing mark (12 o’clock) are correct. If this procedure is
missed by even one tooth, engine damage can result."
So crank gear mark is straight up and cam gear mark is straight down. They should make a straight line from the cam centerline, to the cam timing mark, to the crank timing mark, to the crank centerline. See image below.
"Check your manual again for the proper timing mark positions and make sure that both camshaft
timing mark (6 o’clock) and crankshaft timing mark (12 o’clock) are correct. If this procedure is
missed by even one tooth, engine damage can result."
So crank gear mark is straight up and cam gear mark is straight down. They should make a straight line from the cam centerline, to the cam timing mark, to the crank timing mark, to the crank centerline. See image below.
blazeracer
New member
It's pissin mist outside today, so work on the motor will continue on this fine Thrusday.
First had to go to Walmart and get some playdough. Assembled one cylinder with the Traxxas spring on it, loaded the lifter with 1/4 turn and gave it a few whirls. At the closest point the intake valve comes no closer than 3/8 within the piston top. That's measured with NO head gasket and the 1/4 turn preload on the lifter. I should be good with piston to valve clearance.
Assembly time.
First had to go to Walmart and get some playdough. Assembled one cylinder with the Traxxas spring on it, loaded the lifter with 1/4 turn and gave it a few whirls. At the closest point the intake valve comes no closer than 3/8 within the piston top. That's measured with NO head gasket and the 1/4 turn preload on the lifter. I should be good with piston to valve clearance.
Assembly time.
duanehydro
Active member
I only see the intake being checked..did you check the exhaust?
NotImportant-1
New member
Duanehydro said:
Duanes correct. Most of the time on the BBF it's the exhaust you have to worry about clearing think.gif
blazeracer
New member
From what I've read on 460Ford.com it's the intake reliefs that have to be fly cut when the block's been decked and the cam is over .600 using 2404 pistons and the Ford Racing SCJA aluminum heads. I guess I best check though since I'm in it now and have what's needed to do the job on hand. It only takes 5 minutes to make sure it's right.
blazeracer
New member
Got half the slugs in.
blazeracer
New member
Exhaust is not even close. A good half inch there. The valve itself is up in the chamber a mile.. And I hate working that valve spring compressor, but better safe than sorry.
HammerDown
New member
blazeracer said:
What compression ratio are you gunnin for?
blazeracer
New member
HammerDown said:
The build I'm doing is supposed to be 9.25:1 static compression. I haven't ran the numbers for dynamic compression, but 9.25 is low enough I shouldn't need to. Super unleaded should work great with the aluminum heads.
Bottom end is done!!
blazeracer
New member
When I first pulled the motor and broke it down I remember the cam lobes were all over the place in the holes. Some were centered, some had about 1/4 of the lobe showing. I had asked if this was normal for a Ford thininig my motor MIGHT have a cam that didn't belong in it.
Well, this Lunati cam has every single lobe in the exact same place in each and every hole, which is just slightly off center so the lifters will rotate. Either my motor had a 351 cam or just a piece of crap cam in it before.
Lunati VooDoo baby..
Well, this Lunati cam has every single lobe in the exact same place in each and every hole, which is just slightly off center so the lifters will rotate. Either my motor had a 351 cam or just a piece of crap cam in it before.
Lunati VooDoo baby..
HammerDown
New member
blazeracer said:
Yeah plenty good. post up some pics of that short block