Stalling.... maybe basset t fitting goin?
- Thread starter EMBRACETHEHATE
- Start date
EMBRACETHEHATE
New member
Found a set of basset Shortys just need time to get them. I will buy baffles but no more water.
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SimplyOrange
New member
Gas-Hole said:
yeah, i meant if it was stalling while running, idling i would agree that the tee valve could be drowning the cylinders.
EMBRACETHEHATE
New member
I back off idles then sputters out. Defiantly does it at an idle. Idles long enough to where I can hear the engine over the wind.
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EMBRACETHEHATE
New member
ya I am but my next question is how do I setup it up for dry headers? Do I just cap where the t valve comes out?Gas-Hole said:
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EMBRACETHEHATE
New member
got a good deal on a dry set. Needed new ones anyway. Maybe its just me but im paranoid about this water injected bs. I've seen what it does when it does fail.DISTURBED said:
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I understand your concern, Once you get the hang of the Wet system is easy as Pie, My concern is the Heat from dry Headers, Our Boating Crowd my differ, I am more concerned with the fire/Burn hazard than the well being of the Engine, we have little ones around/in the Boats allot.EMBRACETHEHATE said:
The Tank covers on my Sled show signs of heat Issues, the Vinyl is Bubbled in some areas, it was that way when I bought it and I don't know if it was because of Dry headers at one time or not but them SumBit&hes get hot! A Burp of Oil onto a dry Header could spell disaster!
Or a Kid touching the "Shiny" things, that's even worse.
But that's just me.
$HAG NA$TY
New member
PRETTY GOOD INFO HERE. NO WONDER ME HEADERS CRACKED.. OR MAYBE IT WAS BECAUSE THEY WERE 30 YEARS OLD.. EITHER WAY I AM GOING TO TAKE BETTER CARE OF MY NEW SET..
Bassett Racing Frequently Asked Questions
Get Helpful Answers to your Frequently Asked Questions
1. Care of your Bassett Headers
Keep Water Running Through Headers
* Keep water running through the headers by keeping the RPMs high which means when idling, punch the throttle frequently to push water though them.
* Water should be entering the headers at 1800 RPMs, no less.
* Water entering later than 1800 RPMs will cause bluing and discoloring.
Run your Motor Rich
* The richer the motor, the longer the headers will last. The inside of the primary pipes should be dark brown to sootie black. If the insides are light brown to white, you are running too lean. The problem is in the headers, not on the spark plugs, so check inside the headers, not by the spark plugs. The area close to the heads on the pipes should be blue. A green color means you are running your engine lean and could warp the pipes. There is no warranty on leanness related conditions. Remember, there should be no whiteness at all.
Spray WD-40
* Spray WD-40 after each use. When the boat is stored after your outing, at the end of the weekend, at the end of the season, etc, whenever it is not going to be used for a couple of days, you need to spray WD-40 or some other related oil on the headers to help prevent rusting. If you are going to be using the boat continuously for a couple of days, then you do not need to use the WD-40 each day. This is only at the end of the outing when it will be sitting and not being used. Spray the WD-40 in between the pipes and the back side of the headers, on the flanges and where the primary pipes join the collectors, into the weep holes, and into the collector. This will help prevent rust. Even though nickel gets between the pipes, the chrome does not and thus the rust will occur if the headers are not taken care of properly.
* To get rid of rust, use fine steel wool, then spray with WD-40 again.
Spray Windex
* BEFORE you use the boat each time, you need to clean off the WD-40 with Windex before you fire up the motor and get the headers hot. You also need to use the Windex each day right before you start the boat to wipe down any oil, fingerprints, suntan lotion, etc that could have gotten on the headers. The oil from these types of things can burn into the chrome when the headers get hot.
Dry Inside of Headers After Using
* After Loading the boat on to the trailer, run the motor for 30-60 seconds to dry the inside of the headers. This will also help keep your headers from rusting.
Yellowing
* The chrome plating on the water injected headers is the finest quality triple chrome plating. But running headers dry for a long period of time will yellow and blue the headers at the ends. Yellowing and bluing is a discoloration of the chrome due to heat. So, if you are running the boat on a trailer, it will overheat and yellow. You must have the boat in the water, running water through the motor at high RPMs. That means that you can also get yellowing if you are idling. So, if you put the boat in the water and then start it and idle it, it will overheat and yellow. So, keep idling to a minimum. If you are idling for awhile, just be sure to hit the throttle every once in awhile to get the RPMs up there and that will add water to the headers. Just punch it frequently.
Bottom Line
* Clean the headers with Windex often as possible and before you use the boat each time.
* Put WD-40 on the headers after your outing when you store the boat.
* Keep water running through the headers by keeping the RPMs high which means when idling, punch the throttle frequently to push water though them.
* These are suggestions only and are not guaranteed to stop the rust and yellowing, but based on our experience, they help significantly.
2. How Your Jet & V-Drive Water Injected Bassett Headers Work
* Headers are Dry at idle & Wet above 1800 RPMs. Your headers should be hot and dry at idle. They are also hot the first 6" out from the head to the water inlet fitting and the chrome will blue to this point.
* Never let a passenger or skier climb in or around the headers. They may get burned.
* The water goes into and out of the motor by means of an overboard by-pass line. The water from the motor is then injected into the header at approximately 1800 RPMs when you are on the throttle. When you back off of the throttle lower than 1800 RPMs, then the stainless steel automatic control valve should close and the headers should go dry. When you get back on the throttle over 1800 RPMs, then the water should automatically be injected back into the headers again. If it does not work in this manner, then something is hooked up incorrectly or your valve is plugged.
* If your water injection system is not working properly, stop and fix it. If you run with the system not working properly, it can cause hydraulic of the engine. If your lines or valves are plugged, remove and blow out the lines. Make sure that the small holes on the bottom of each pipe are not plugged. Clean the valve and make sure that it is assembled exactly the way it came apart. The valve is made of the finest 316 stainless steel. It is the most corrosive resistant of the stainless steels on the market. Periodically spray inside the valve with WD-40.
3. Running of Your Boat Out of the Water
* When you need to work on your boat out of the water it is very important that you run water through it. Running water from a garden hose through your engine and headers is a two man job. Turn on the water from the hose only after the engine is started and the RPMs are held over 1800. Turn the water off before you drop the RPMs and turn off the engine. You may have to close the by-pass valve by hand in order to make the water go through the headers. Make sure that the by-pass valve is returned to the original setting.
4. Jet and V-Drive Water Injected Installation
* Install stainless steel lines to headers.
* Install headers on engine.
* Make sure there is no thermostat or any other type of water temperature control in the housing.
* Install "T" stainless steel control valve in one of the two lines in the thermostat housing. Connect the "T" end to the headers. The lines of the headers should be approximately 2 feet long.
* The other line from your thermostat housing is the by-pass line. Run it overboard with a 1/2" brass gate valve (plumbing type).
* The gate valve is needed to regulate the amount of water you discharge. It also regulates what RPM the water is injected into the headers. Example: gate valve is open and water comes in at 3000 RPMs. In order to make the water come in at 1800 RPMs, close the gate valve approximately 1/3.
5. How to Detect a Leanness Problem
* The richer the motor, the longer the headers will last. The inside of the primary pipes should be dark brown to sootie black. If the insides are light brown to white, you are running too lean. The problem is in the headers, not on the spark plugs, so check inside the headers, not by the spark plugs. The area close to the heads on the pipes should be blue. A green color means you are running your engine lean and could warp the pipes. There is no warranty on leanness related conditions. Remember, there should be no whiteness at all.
6. Why are my Headers Cracked around the Weep Holes and the Pipes Distorted
* Most likely, the headers have experienced a leanness condition at one or more times. Leanness means that there was not enough gas mixing with the amount of air coming through the carbs. In order to solve this, you need to fatten the carbs primary and secondary. Make sure that the timing is advanced. To detect leanness, you would notice that the inside of the header at ports would be white, you are constantly blowing gaskets, there is a green or gray color in between the heads and water injection, and bluing farther than the water injection. More or less water is not going to fix a leanness problem.
7. Is it possible for Water to get into my Motor from the Exhaust
* Yes. If you have an overlapping cam, the cam will actually pull water into the cylinders. In most cases, the water will pass by the pistons or valves and end up in the oil pan. So, it is important that you check the water system each time you start the motor. Tons of water should not be coming out of the weep holes at idle. The bigger the overlap of the cam, the later you want the water to inject. However, the bigger the cam, the later the water injects, and the bluer the headers.
8. My Running Temperature is Good, but my Engine Overheats at Idle
* You need to set the temperature at idle. After that the running temperature is beyond your control. If you would rather have good engine temperature, you need to purchase a thermostat kit. Remember that changing the engine temperature with the gate valves will change when the water injects to the headers.
9. My Exhaust Keeps Blowing Gaskets, even the Expensive Gaskets
* Make sure that the motor is not running lean. Check the carbs at the primaries and secondaries. Bolts may be vibrating loose. Bassett Racing offers tall lock washers to help prevent this. Putting a thin coat of RTV on both sides of the gasket will help. After installing the header, tighten to where the RTV is just oozing out, then wait 12 hours and then torque down. Usual amount is 25 pounds. Now you have created a silicone rubber gasket.
10. My Headers are Rusted in between the Pipes and on the Back Side
* The headers are steel and they will rust if you do not put oil on the headers while in storage. Some of the conditions that contribute to rust and corrosion are humidity, condensation, wet seats, water in bilge, water left in injection lines, and water left in top of the t-valve. In addition, if the battery is leaking, the acid vapors will rust the headers. Thus, it is very important that you put a good oil such as WD-40 or LP-1 all over the headers, in the collector, and in the weep holes. Remember to wipe all of the oil off with Windex and paper towels before starting the motor or you will burn the oil into the headers and that will yellow the headers
Bassett Racing Frequently Asked Questions
Get Helpful Answers to your Frequently Asked Questions
1. Care of your Bassett Headers
Keep Water Running Through Headers
* Keep water running through the headers by keeping the RPMs high which means when idling, punch the throttle frequently to push water though them.
* Water should be entering the headers at 1800 RPMs, no less.
* Water entering later than 1800 RPMs will cause bluing and discoloring.
Run your Motor Rich
* The richer the motor, the longer the headers will last. The inside of the primary pipes should be dark brown to sootie black. If the insides are light brown to white, you are running too lean. The problem is in the headers, not on the spark plugs, so check inside the headers, not by the spark plugs. The area close to the heads on the pipes should be blue. A green color means you are running your engine lean and could warp the pipes. There is no warranty on leanness related conditions. Remember, there should be no whiteness at all.
Spray WD-40
* Spray WD-40 after each use. When the boat is stored after your outing, at the end of the weekend, at the end of the season, etc, whenever it is not going to be used for a couple of days, you need to spray WD-40 or some other related oil on the headers to help prevent rusting. If you are going to be using the boat continuously for a couple of days, then you do not need to use the WD-40 each day. This is only at the end of the outing when it will be sitting and not being used. Spray the WD-40 in between the pipes and the back side of the headers, on the flanges and where the primary pipes join the collectors, into the weep holes, and into the collector. This will help prevent rust. Even though nickel gets between the pipes, the chrome does not and thus the rust will occur if the headers are not taken care of properly.
* To get rid of rust, use fine steel wool, then spray with WD-40 again.
Spray Windex
* BEFORE you use the boat each time, you need to clean off the WD-40 with Windex before you fire up the motor and get the headers hot. You also need to use the Windex each day right before you start the boat to wipe down any oil, fingerprints, suntan lotion, etc that could have gotten on the headers. The oil from these types of things can burn into the chrome when the headers get hot.
Dry Inside of Headers After Using
* After Loading the boat on to the trailer, run the motor for 30-60 seconds to dry the inside of the headers. This will also help keep your headers from rusting.
Yellowing
* The chrome plating on the water injected headers is the finest quality triple chrome plating. But running headers dry for a long period of time will yellow and blue the headers at the ends. Yellowing and bluing is a discoloration of the chrome due to heat. So, if you are running the boat on a trailer, it will overheat and yellow. You must have the boat in the water, running water through the motor at high RPMs. That means that you can also get yellowing if you are idling. So, if you put the boat in the water and then start it and idle it, it will overheat and yellow. So, keep idling to a minimum. If you are idling for awhile, just be sure to hit the throttle every once in awhile to get the RPMs up there and that will add water to the headers. Just punch it frequently.
Bottom Line
* Clean the headers with Windex often as possible and before you use the boat each time.
* Put WD-40 on the headers after your outing when you store the boat.
* Keep water running through the headers by keeping the RPMs high which means when idling, punch the throttle frequently to push water though them.
* These are suggestions only and are not guaranteed to stop the rust and yellowing, but based on our experience, they help significantly.
2. How Your Jet & V-Drive Water Injected Bassett Headers Work
* Headers are Dry at idle & Wet above 1800 RPMs. Your headers should be hot and dry at idle. They are also hot the first 6" out from the head to the water inlet fitting and the chrome will blue to this point.
* Never let a passenger or skier climb in or around the headers. They may get burned.
* The water goes into and out of the motor by means of an overboard by-pass line. The water from the motor is then injected into the header at approximately 1800 RPMs when you are on the throttle. When you back off of the throttle lower than 1800 RPMs, then the stainless steel automatic control valve should close and the headers should go dry. When you get back on the throttle over 1800 RPMs, then the water should automatically be injected back into the headers again. If it does not work in this manner, then something is hooked up incorrectly or your valve is plugged.
* If your water injection system is not working properly, stop and fix it. If you run with the system not working properly, it can cause hydraulic of the engine. If your lines or valves are plugged, remove and blow out the lines. Make sure that the small holes on the bottom of each pipe are not plugged. Clean the valve and make sure that it is assembled exactly the way it came apart. The valve is made of the finest 316 stainless steel. It is the most corrosive resistant of the stainless steels on the market. Periodically spray inside the valve with WD-40.
3. Running of Your Boat Out of the Water
* When you need to work on your boat out of the water it is very important that you run water through it. Running water from a garden hose through your engine and headers is a two man job. Turn on the water from the hose only after the engine is started and the RPMs are held over 1800. Turn the water off before you drop the RPMs and turn off the engine. You may have to close the by-pass valve by hand in order to make the water go through the headers. Make sure that the by-pass valve is returned to the original setting.
4. Jet and V-Drive Water Injected Installation
* Install stainless steel lines to headers.
* Install headers on engine.
* Make sure there is no thermostat or any other type of water temperature control in the housing.
* Install "T" stainless steel control valve in one of the two lines in the thermostat housing. Connect the "T" end to the headers. The lines of the headers should be approximately 2 feet long.
* The other line from your thermostat housing is the by-pass line. Run it overboard with a 1/2" brass gate valve (plumbing type).
* The gate valve is needed to regulate the amount of water you discharge. It also regulates what RPM the water is injected into the headers. Example: gate valve is open and water comes in at 3000 RPMs. In order to make the water come in at 1800 RPMs, close the gate valve approximately 1/3.
5. How to Detect a Leanness Problem
* The richer the motor, the longer the headers will last. The inside of the primary pipes should be dark brown to sootie black. If the insides are light brown to white, you are running too lean. The problem is in the headers, not on the spark plugs, so check inside the headers, not by the spark plugs. The area close to the heads on the pipes should be blue. A green color means you are running your engine lean and could warp the pipes. There is no warranty on leanness related conditions. Remember, there should be no whiteness at all.
6. Why are my Headers Cracked around the Weep Holes and the Pipes Distorted
* Most likely, the headers have experienced a leanness condition at one or more times. Leanness means that there was not enough gas mixing with the amount of air coming through the carbs. In order to solve this, you need to fatten the carbs primary and secondary. Make sure that the timing is advanced. To detect leanness, you would notice that the inside of the header at ports would be white, you are constantly blowing gaskets, there is a green or gray color in between the heads and water injection, and bluing farther than the water injection. More or less water is not going to fix a leanness problem.
7. Is it possible for Water to get into my Motor from the Exhaust
* Yes. If you have an overlapping cam, the cam will actually pull water into the cylinders. In most cases, the water will pass by the pistons or valves and end up in the oil pan. So, it is important that you check the water system each time you start the motor. Tons of water should not be coming out of the weep holes at idle. The bigger the overlap of the cam, the later you want the water to inject. However, the bigger the cam, the later the water injects, and the bluer the headers.
8. My Running Temperature is Good, but my Engine Overheats at Idle
* You need to set the temperature at idle. After that the running temperature is beyond your control. If you would rather have good engine temperature, you need to purchase a thermostat kit. Remember that changing the engine temperature with the gate valves will change when the water injects to the headers.
9. My Exhaust Keeps Blowing Gaskets, even the Expensive Gaskets
* Make sure that the motor is not running lean. Check the carbs at the primaries and secondaries. Bolts may be vibrating loose. Bassett Racing offers tall lock washers to help prevent this. Putting a thin coat of RTV on both sides of the gasket will help. After installing the header, tighten to where the RTV is just oozing out, then wait 12 hours and then torque down. Usual amount is 25 pounds. Now you have created a silicone rubber gasket.
10. My Headers are Rusted in between the Pipes and on the Back Side
* The headers are steel and they will rust if you do not put oil on the headers while in storage. Some of the conditions that contribute to rust and corrosion are humidity, condensation, wet seats, water in bilge, water left in injection lines, and water left in top of the t-valve. In addition, if the battery is leaking, the acid vapors will rust the headers. Thus, it is very important that you put a good oil such as WD-40 or LP-1 all over the headers, in the collector, and in the weep holes. Remember to wipe all of the oil off with Windex and paper towels before starting the motor or you will burn the oil into the headers and that will yellow the headers
73 Sanger Flat
Active member
EMBRACETHEHATE said:
Are you sure you are not having a carb problem ? It could be the float stuck and it flooded the engine . Sound just like a gas flooded engine . Took 15-20 minutes for it to fire back up .. Just something to think about ..
$HAG NA$TY
New member
Brazos River Rat ( Billy ) said:
clap.gif clap.gif clap.gif EXACTLY WHAT IT SOUNDS LIKE clap.gif clap.gif clap.gif
Devilman
Well-known member
EMBRACETHEHATE said:
I know where you're comin from on the T-valve deal. I burned the engine down in my boat not long after buying it, due to the previous owner taking it apart & not putting it back together correctly. It was sucking water in thru the exhaust the whole time & milk-shaked that mofo to death, lol...
Once I figured out what had happened, fixing the T-valve was a 5 minute fix. I did put a ball valve ahead of the T-valve so I can shut the header water off completely if I need or want to. I was leery of the T-valve for a while & used the ball valve to shut the water off at idle, but when working properly there is no need for that, I haven't messed with it for years.
Running the headers dry is certainly up to you, but it creates a lot of heat in the boat, even while cruising around. It is a noticeable difference with or without water. So then after shutting down, they stay way hotter a lot longer than they would if you had water. Plus the chrome won't last & they will turn all sorts of funky colors, lol.. Although, getting them ceramic coated should help with the heat a little & keep them looking good as well, so that is an option too.
My 2 cents, from one that had trust issues with the T-valve as well. :grin:
EMBRACETHEHATE
New member
we just rebuilt the 850. But it was our first time doing it!!! Hahaha infact I hope its a carb problem. I have literally been worrying about water in the oil this whole week. I can't check it tho til this weekend.Brazos River Rat ( Billy ) said:
I was just trying to start with the simple things.
As far as the dry headers, I needed new ones and these basset black shorties ate gonna look killer on her with the white scoop. I'm going to keep all my water lines though incase I do go back.
This weekend I'll be mainly working on the boat. Is there anything I should I notice in the carb right away as a culprit to a sticky float?
Thanks again y'all are definitely giving more confidence to wrench on this thing. I know very little about v8s, let alone a jet boat motor.
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73 Sanger Flat
Active member
I would first check the float level using the float bowl's brass screw on the side. Gas should be at the bottom edge of the hole with the engine running or the electric fuel pump on .. .. If you just rebuilt it , did you set the Floats levels after starting the engine ?
Normally when a float sticks , it beacuse it got a piece of trash in the needle and seat .. Pull needle and seat and clean with brake clean and reinstall and adjust float again .
Normally when a float sticks , it beacuse it got a piece of trash in the needle and seat .. Pull needle and seat and clean with brake clean and reinstall and adjust float again .
EMBRACETHEHATE
New member
ran octane booster in it last time out, ran perfect.Patchman said:
lol there was no talk of setting floats during rebuild! I will check though. Does a float always stick? Or can it happen every now and then. Like I said after I got it fired it ran great for a few hrs. Then died one more time, which could of been me, tank was low and I was I'm choppy water. But it fired up immediately.Brazos River Rat ( Billy ) said:
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