Crusader Project

Last Mohecian

Administrator
Smiley's has a nice selection of Heim joints and turnbuckles.  While what you can get at Lowe's will work the one's at smiley's look much nicer.
 

blazeracer

New member
Hey man, maybe your alignment problem is with the alternator being on the wrong side? The head on one side is slightly forward of the other one so the alignment will be different.
 

sturat

New member
I made a spacer to keep the correct distance from the block. Mine has always been mounted on that side of the motor.
When I switched to the turnbuckle with the hiem joints and put a larger pulley on the alt. I have never had an issue since.
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
Between the alignment and the oil I bet that is your problem.  Fix the alignment on the stand where you can see it, replce that adjuster with a turn buckle with heim joints and the rebuild should fix the oil issue.  Problem solved.
 

Crusader

Moderator
Last Mohican said:
Between the alignment and the oil I bet that is your problem.  Fix the alignment on the stand where you can see it, add a tur buckle with heim joints and the rebuild should fix the oil issue.  Problem solved.

Ya, I hear ya....just planning ahead while the motor is still in the boat...... which will be pulled out this evening.

On another note.....bearings. Should I use teflon coated bearings with the crank? Is that just a high performance motor trick or would I gain any reliability by using them?
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
Crusader said:
Last Mohican said:
Between the alignment and the oil I bet that is your problem.  Fix the alignment on the stand where you can see it, add a tur buckle with heim joints and the rebuild should fix the oil issue.  Problem solved.

Ya, I hear ya....just planning ahead while the motor is still in the boat...... which will be pulled out this evening.

On another note.....bearings. Should I use teflon coated bearings with the crank? Is that just a high performance motor trick or would I gain any reliability by using them?

I'm curious what other say but my thought is, on a basically stock 460, there is no need for coated bearings.  Spend that money somewhere else.
 

blazeracer

New member
I got marine bearings on mine but I have no idea where. Maybe from the link I jut googled. The difference is the oil groove runs all the way around on the mains I think. Could be wrong though.

http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/detail.aspx?Item=5650SI-STD

The photo is just generic bearings.
 

blazeracer

New member
Now that I think about it, those are the main bearing in my motor. I got everything from Jegs EXCEPT the main bearings. I think it's referenced in the 460 buildup thread.
 

ChryslerJet

New member
I think everyone has you going in the right direction on the Alternator.  On the bearings imho I wouldnt bother with coated unless your turning some major rpms or have some cash to burn.  The full groove thing always has me knickers in a bunch cause on one hand it is running oil the entire rotation through the bearing and crank to the rods on the other hand a full groove will wear into the crank as well since there is nothing riding on it.  I know when I was racing we bought and also made 3/4 groove bearings that would give more oil time and a surface to keep the bearings from creating a ridge in the center of the crank journal.
 

Crusader

Moderator
I pulled the engine out of the boat last night and put it on an engine stand.

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Here's Brian taking pride in how fast we got this thing out of the boat.
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The bilge are looks terrible....I have some work to do to get this area squared away.
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This is the last time this motor will look this bad.
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The intake ports on the D0VE-C heads are huge.
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They're almost the size of a beer can.
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When we removed the logs, we discovered a few issues. On the starboard log, the prior owner installed the exhaust gasket backwards which blocked about 15% (guessing) of the exhaust flow. When we turned the gasket around, it fit perfectly. The port log had TWO exhaust gaskets on it. Is having two gaskets normal practice for fixing exhaust leaks??

I think the motor is a marine motor...it has brass freeze plugs installed.

How can I tell if my heads have been worked/machined for optimum performance??

Not pictured are the rocker arms with roller tips. Is it normal for the tips to NOT be centered up on the valves? In other words, some tips have wear in the middle of the rollers and others have wear off to the side. Not sure if this is good or not.

I hope we don't find more idiotic mistakes.
 

blazeracer

New member
I'm pretty sure you'll find another idiotic mistake on the cylinder not making any pressure. The roller tips should be squared up on the valve tips. Are there guide plated installed? That's what keeps the pushrods in their proper location in turn keeping the roller tips in their proper location.

They screw in under the studs and look like this.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/4838-8/10002/-1

You have to have screw in studs to run them. You have to know what diameter the studs are, and you also have to get hardened push rods. All that to run roller tips and keep them properly located.

Look at the last note on the rockers, that are GM parts by the way.. LOL

http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/1411-16/10002/-1

You have any pics of the top side of the head with the valve cover off?
 

Crusader

Moderator
The rockers do have the guide plates but they are not squared on top of the valve tips at all.

I do not have a picture of the valves with the valve cover off.
 

blazeracer

New member
Crusader said:
I think the motor is a marine motor...it has brass freeze plugs installed.

How can I tell if my heads have been worked/machined for optimum performance??

ALL motors that run lake water to cool them MUST have brass freeze plugs installed. Steel ones will rot out in two seasons.

Of you have port work done the rough casting surface will be gone and the metal in the port would be all smoothed out and shiny.
 

Crusader

Moderator
Last Mohican said:
Double gasket is a common solutions for leaking exhaust.  Not real sure how much it helps on a boat with logs but it was a big help with a set of $79 Headman headers from Super Shops back in 1988.  LOL.

Brian would know if those heads were worked.  You can tell by looking at them.  It's kinda hard to put into words but you would know it if you saw the difference. 

Brian is going to make sure the exhaust ports on the heads are flat even. Hopefully if the are machined properly I'll only need to use one gasket.

Brian does think the heads were worked. So far he's impressed but we won't know anything until the motor is torn down.
 
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