Trailer brakes

blazeracer

New member
You would think the design would allow backing up over any terrain. It needs the full 2,000 plus pounds rolling into your truck at highway speed to get it to engage. You think about, like under 25 or 30 it's not really needed to come to a slow stop so it should be difficult to move. I tried moving mine by hand just now, NO DICE.
 

Texgo

New member
Crusader:  Here is the same one as mine, and the same guy has this one on Ebay starting at $20.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Trailer-brake-Master-Cylinder-Used-Military-Trailer-Par-/200475878070?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ead4b22b6
 

Texgo

New member
Here's a new one:  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hydraulic-Trailer-Brake-Master-Cylinder-Titan-Dico-M6-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efd83e641QQitemZ270541252161QQptZMotorsQ5fRVQ5fTrailerQ5fCamperQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
Trailer brake reverse lock out.  Hook it to your reverse lights.  Doubtful you will need it tough.

http://www.westmarine.com/1/1/11525-trailer-brake-reverse-lock-out-solenoid.html

http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Kodiak/KBASV-OK.html

I'm sure you could use a line lock to accomplish the same thing.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/63000/10002/-1
 

Crusader

Moderator
Oh ya, very cool. Alright, I know for sure I'm missing parts now. Especially since Texgo showed me where the resevior went. I'm curious to know if the hydraulic lines were cut on the resevior end or not. Boats in storage so I won't get to go look at it until Wednesday after the club meeting at the earliest.

Texgo, did you keep and use your old plunger or did the kit come with another one?? I'm missing everything.
 

Texgo

New member
My trailer had the old master cylinder and parts installed on it.  It was all rusted up.  The plunger is just a piece of flat stock about 1/4" thick.  If you can't find one I can send you a pattern of mine, or I can cut one out for you. 
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
All those pieces are very common.  You should be able to get everything including the plunger new from a trailer supply company.  Maybe even Tractor Supply.  Honestly cliff, I think you best and cheapest route is going to be ordering a whole kit as if you were putting brakes on a trailer that did not have them.  It will save you a ton of time hunting up individual parts and you will know for sure all the parts are made to work together.  You can get an entire disk brake kit for $400.

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Titan/T4843100.html

 

Crusader

Moderator
Thanks matt. That looks like a great deal. I'll have to call the place because the write up says that the kit is for a single axle set up with 5, 6, or seven pin harness. I have a four pin on the truck. Lots of research ahead of me.
 

HellinnFrnt

New member
Northern Tool has a good stock of axles fenders brakes springs at good prices last year I got a pair of electrics for 99.95 drums/back plates/shoes/actuators/bolts/wire connectors the whole deal both sets in one box for 99.95. Took me less than an hour to put them on and made a HUGE difference in stopping even my little boat, I already had the controller and trailer was wired for them some dumb butt just took em off ...
 

blazeracer

New member
Last Mohican said:
All those pieces are very common.  You should be able to get everything including the plunger new from a trailer supply company.  Maybe even Tractor Supply.  Honestly cliff, I think you best and cheapest route is going to be ordering a whole kit as if you were putting brakes on a trailer that did not have them.  It will save you a ton of time hunting up individual parts and you will know for sure all the parts are made to work together.  You can get an entire disk brake kit for $400.

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Titan/T4843100.html

That's a great deal to switch to disc brakes that will work great. Just have to make for sure you have a round wiring connector. A flat four won't work as it's requires an electical reverse connection for the lock out.
 

Crusader

Moderator
So that 5th wire is basically tied to the reverse lamps, correct? If so, that would be easy to splice into. Also wiring a five pin round wouldn't be so hard to do either.

Hmmmm, might just be worth it.
 

blazeracer

New member
Crusader said:
So that 5th wire is basically tied to the reverse lamps, correct? If so, that would be easy to splice into. Also wiring a five pin round wouldn't be so hard to do either.

Hmmmm, might just be worth it.

Yeah, and I already have a 6 pin round on mine. Shopping for the best deal online for Ford roller rockers now.
 

jimsplace

Active member
Some surge brakes have a back-up lockout at the master cylinder, others don't.  If you use the reverse lockout, you have to manually disengage the lockout or the brakes won't work when it's being pulled.

I seldom if ever use the lockout even when backing up and it's never been a problem.  If it does seem like the brakes are preventing you from backing, you can usually stop, pull forward to take the tension off and back again slowly.
 

blazeracer

New member
Once you get your trailer brakes fixed and working good, don't forget to strap the boat to the trailer properly.

62580d1214434129-boat-towing-101-image002.jpg


Oh, avoid poles when possible also!!
 

Red Horse

Member
On some surge brakes there is a hole that a pin will fit into so you can back up without applying the brakes. You will have to get out of the truck and insert the pin before backing. I have the electric reverse lock out. It works great. If you do the electric lock out you will love it. So easy.
 

Crusader

Moderator
Red Horse said:
On some surge brakes there is a hole that a pin will fit into so you can back up without applying the brakes. You will have to get out of the truck and insert the pin before backing. I have the electric reverse lock out. It works great. If you do the electric lock out you will love it. So easy.

Thanks Red Horse. Does your truck already have a 5 pin flat or 6 pin round on it? Right now I have a 4 pin flat on my F-150 for the trailer hook up.....and I'd have to convert it to a 5 pin flat for the electric lock out. If the wiring is easy for that 5th pin i.e. direct wire splice to the reverse light, I can manage that.

I like the disc brake set up. I've been reading up in it in other forums and if you have a tandem axle trailer, as I do, they're all saying that I'd need brakes on all four wheels. In some states, that's a requirement though I don't think it is in Texas.

Do you have a tandem trailer with brakes on all four wheels?
 

Red Horse

Member
I have an 08 Tundra and I used the seven pin round thru an adapter to the flat on the trailer.

I do have an tandem axle trailer with disc brakes, but only on 1 axle. They are only the last axle and work real well. I am not sure if you would need them on both...might be personal preference on that. The brakes help to slow down the entire rig and help to keep me straight as it is, so I dont know if I would need to have brakes on all four wheels. My boat is 4100# dry, add 1500# for the trailer, 40 Gallons gas, oil, gear, etc, etc etc and I am right around 6K towed load. I am extremely happy with my trailer. It is a heavy duty trailer made with 5 inch square galvanized tubing. I will have to look at the weight rating to get the accurate number, but I know with the additional brakes the carrying capacity goes up.
 

Crusader

Moderator
Red Horse said:
I have an 08 Tundra and I used the seven pin round thru an adapter to the flat on the trailer.

Okay, so was the flat on the trailer a five pin?

Red Horse said:
I do have an tandem axle trailer with disc brakes, but only on 1 axle. They are only the last axle and work real well.

Okay, good to know.... the four disc set is $200 more and I didn't really want to let go of that much cheddar.

I still haven't looked at the set up on my trailer since Texgo uploaded all those pictures for me. I may just repair what I have for now and install the disc brakes next winter as my winter project.
 
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