Please Help... i need advise!

John

New member
i can give any one hell about their boat not running i had mine two years before i got it wet for more than 20 minutes
 

NescherMonty17

New member
ChryslerJet said:
John said:
NescherMonty17 said:
ok i purchased a starter, that is mercruiser, coated, and remanufactured for 80 on ebay

i purchased the alternator i mentioned above (not worried about stereo, its just a little one and i dnt have any other accessory) 80 on ebay

i purchased a flame thrower marine distrib and coil for 289 on ebay

i just hope everything works... thats alot of coin, lol ill re-wire everything tonight and get the pump put back together.

see that CJ thats how you get s*** done!  :smile16:
LOL if I had that kinda money to throw around I would too.  BTW I got my Starter, Alt, Carb, Flame Arrestor, Distributor all included in with my $400 motor that I have.  Only problem was the motor was RH Rotation.  But all those parts together would have cost more than the $400 I paid so I think I broke even.  I will always find a deal if I am not in a hurry.  Just call me the Tortoise the new guy can be the Hare.


LOL, i am the Hare, i have 3 other watercraft that get this same kind of daily attention.
 

ChryslerJet

New member
John said:
i can give any one hell about their boat not running i had mine two years before i got it wet for more than 20 minutes

Now i have a goal to get mine done before I hit that marker. lol I will have mine on the water this summer.  Worst case the first time ya'll get to see it will be Sommerville Rockin the Cove.
 

ChryslerJet

New member
NescherMonty17 said:
it buggs me when s*** is broke... or i dont have the part i need... i loose sleep!
That bugs me too but I have so many projects going on that I keep busy.  Seems like lately more of other peoples projects keeps coming my way and hate to say no because they are all paying for my projects to get done, but they take away time from mine.  Plus mine is in way worse shape than yours it had sat for 26 years in a field before I bought it and it needs a lot of attention.  I knew it was going to be a long term project not a quick fix.
 

Devilman

Well-known member
John said:
i can give any one hell about their boat not running i had mine two years before i got it wet for more than 20 minutes

You still puttin Benadryl in the fuel tank John? :grin:
 

John

New member
Devilman said:
John said:
i can give any one hell about their boat not running i had mine two years before i got it wet for more than 20 minutes

You still puttin Benadryl in the fuel tank John? :grin:

yup lots of it!!

CJ see my signature line

l
l
l
l
l
V

 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
Why were all you guys so adamant about the marine carb with the full engine cover but then changed your mind when he said he would leave just the carb sticking out but the rest of the engine still covered?  Seems to me the same issue with explosion still exists.  Marine carbs are made to dump fuel into the throat of the carb if the float sticks or flooding occurs for some other reason.  They also have a place for the fuel pump to dump fuel in the motor if the diaphragm goes out.  Auto carbs are not this way.  If the float sticks it is going to dump fuel and fill the bilge.  Carb out of cover or not, Boom still happens.

Travis, I still think you are jumping the gun a little.  You are throwing an awful lot of parts at that boat without actually diagnosing the issue.  Don't take me wrong, I think the marine parts are a wise investment with the engine cover.  Just not sure they are going to resolve your issue.
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
Crusader said:
Here's the alternator I purchased from DB electrical.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=360325132937&cmd=VIDESC

It pushes our killer stereo just fine.

Cliff, That link is no good.  It goes to the mobile site for an expired auction.  Not much help for purchasing a part.
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
KONA said:
i think we were answering his post the way it was written,  go back and check it out  :smile30:

KONA said:
NescherMonty17 said:
i think we might have hit the nail on the head!!!  im going to re-wire my boat, get a marine starter, and a marine distributor, and shrinkwrap the F*** out of everything. new rubber gaskets on the valve covers, and re-silicone the transom adapter and bowl and put it back together.  im also going to purchase a spark arrestor.  let me ask this question... if the carb was sticking out of the engine compartment could the rest of it be enclosed?

yes,  but the alternator has to be marine type,  and a functional blower

ChryslerJet said:
NescherMonty17 said:
i think we might have hit the nail on the head!!!  im going to re-wire my boat, get a marine starter, and a marine distributor, and shrinkwrap the F*** out of everything. new rubber gaskets on the valve covers, and re-silicone the transom adapter and bowl and put it back together.  im also going to purchase a spark arrestor.  let me ask this question... if the carb was sticking out of the engine compartment could the rest of it be enclosed?
Quick Answer YES with all the other components under the cover being marine grade like Alternator, distributor and starter like Kona stated.

And yes those one wires on ebay are great for a jet boat. since they need 1500 rpms to energize them and we have to run at 4k just to putter along.

So I ask again, Why the change of mind?  Not trying to start a war just trying to understand the reasoning.
 

Crusader

Moderator
Last Mohican said:
Crusader said:
Here's the alternator I purchased from DB electrical.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=360325132937&cmd=VIDESC

It pushes our killer stereo just fine.

Cliff, That link is no good.  It goes to the mobile site for an expired auction.  Not much help for purchasing a part.

Might be an expired link but the part number is still good. The lInk was posted with my iPhone but verified with my PC.

It's the part number I was referring too.
 

ChryslerJet

New member
Last Mohican said:
Why were all you guys so adamant about the marine carb with the full engine cover but then changed your mind when he said he would leave just the carb sticking out but the rest of the engine still covered?  Seems to me the same issue with explosion still exists.  Marine carbs are made to dump fuel into the throat of the carb if the float sticks or flooding occurs for some other reason.  They also have a place for the fuel pump to dump fuel in the motor if the diaphragm goes out.  Auto carbs are not this way.  If the float sticks it is going to dump fuel and fill the bilge.  Carb out of cover or not, Boom still happens.

Travis, I still think you are jumping the gun a little.  You are throwing an awful lot of parts at that boat without actually diagnosing the issue.  Don't take me wrong, I think the marine parts are a wise investment with the engine cover.  Just not sure they are going to resolve your issue.

Matt  your right I hadn't thought about that but I believe he is using a carter/edelbrock carb which by design will dump fuel into the carb for overflow.  If he was using a holley it would need a marine version or one with the curved overflow tubes.  Regarding the fuel pump safety dump they typically go into the flame arrestor.
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
ChryslerJet said:
Last Mohican said:
Why were all you guys so adamant about the marine carb with the full engine cover but then changed your mind when he said he would leave just the carb sticking out but the rest of the engine still covered?  Seems to me the same issue with explosion still exists.  Marine carbs are made to dump fuel into the throat of the carb if the float sticks or flooding occurs for some other reason.  They also have a place for the fuel pump to dump fuel in the motor if the diaphragm goes out.  Auto carbs are not this way.  If the float sticks it is going to dump fuel and fill the bilge.  Carb out of cover or not, Boom still happens.

Travis, I still think you are jumping the gun a little.  You are throwing an awful lot of parts at that boat without actually diagnosing the issue.  Don't take me wrong, I think the marine parts are a wise investment with the engine cover.  Just not sure they are going to resolve your issue.

Matt  your right I hadn't thought about that but I believe he is using a carter/edelbrock carb which by design will dump fuel into the carb for overflow.  If he was using a holley it would need a marine version or one with the curved overflow tubes.  Regarding the fuel pump safety dump they typically go into the flame arrestor.

All the fuel dumps I have seen went to the carb.  What I have seen connected to the flame arrestor is the crankcase vent.  If you dumped the fuel from a failed fuel pump into the flame arrestor it could easily still end up outside the engine and into the bilge.

Edelbrock 1410 description:
Other features include modified bowl venting, specially designed throttle shafts,an accelerator pump seal, a 3/8 in. inverted flare fuel inlet fitting, tube in airhorn for fuel pump vent,

All in bold designed to keep fuel in the engine and out of the bilge.
 

72hondo

Member
I didn't know with an enclosed engine bay most things have to be marine grade.

FWIW

Unless I missed it, I didn't see at what RPM it falls on its face. while new parts are fun and cool, the problem should be identified before "throwing parts at it"

I run a small block to 5500 with a jacuzzi B. Even with a worn pump, tight etc. it should do better than 35. As anybody monkeyed with the carb? Edelbrocks are very easy carbs.

I would have gone thru the carb, new gaskets, needle & seats etc. verify the springs (metering rod) were still good.

Verify timing, with a light.

The water thing interest me; the dizzy isn't getting wet. There sealed pretty well marine or not. You say "the starter is getting power but not turning over" how do you know it's getting power? Could be a loose connection somewhere? Corroded connections? Ground wires and bolts can vibrate loose back there.

I wish I would have found this earlier, I have a SB unilite just sitting on the shelf. It needs a ignition module though. 

Also if you want/need your carb (s) rebuilt/ looked over send em my way. I have taken eddies/Carter's apart hundreds of times. Send me the rebuild kits and the carb and I'll take care of it, no charge!
 

Patchman

Administrator
Staff member
Need to make sure the metering rods in the carb aren't sticking. On Edlebrocks, they won't let secondary fuel come in when needed. Just take the two caps off the top of metering rod area and make sure they are moving freely. I spray Wd-40 in them and poke them around a little. Also I run a little ATF in my gas, helps keep everything lubed up! :smile16:
 
Top