blazeracer
New member
FL350 said:
Don't ever add it up. You'll have to keep it forever if you do.
Crusader Project
- Thread starter blazeracer
- Start date
Don't ever add it up. You'll have to keep it forever if you do.
ChryslerJet
New member
Cliff My old Crosscountry Coach used to say as problems go I'll take those kinda problems any day. (in your case the GF nagging about getting back out in the Crusader)Crusader said:
Crusader
Moderator
Thanks to veestyle (andy) I was able to change out the oil in his shop last night before hitting the lake. I started the motor on the ramp and the oil pressure went right up to 70psi...as it warmed up, it dropped to about 50psi. Then James and I raced and I was in the gas to about 5,200 RPMs, the pressure stayed about 50psi. When I went back to idle, the pressure dropped to about 30psi but as I hit the gas, the needle would move to about 50psi again.
I went back to the beach and shut it down for a while. After she cooled off, I went back out and the oil pressure stayed at about 60psi for the remainder of the night.
I think this oil pressure thing is fixed......signing that gripe off and moving onto the next one.
I went back to the beach and shut it down for a while. After she cooled off, I went back out and the oil pressure stayed at about 60psi for the remainder of the night.
I think this oil pressure thing is fixed......signing that gripe off and moving onto the next one.
ChryslerJet
New member
You can mark off the to do list "get Crusader on water so GF will stop nagging me about it" alsoCrusader said:
:smile26: :smile17:
Last Mohecian
Administrator
Crusader said:
I remember you posting somewhere that you were going to troubleshoot this today. Be sure to post up what you find and what you did to find it.
blazeracer
New member
Crusader said:
Meaning "my woman said I can't mess with the boat till you do what I want you to do". LOLOL
blazeracer
New member
Crusader said:
I know man, just bustin your chops. You know the Army guy ain't gonna let the Navy guy make a clean get away.. haha
Crusader
Moderator
Its been a while since I've updated y'all on the Crusader. After reviewing my last few posts on this thread, I see that the last topic discussed was an engine cooling issue.
About 2-3 weeks ago James, Ricky and I did a compression check on all the cylinders with a slightly warm engine. The results were all cylinders were 130psi +/- 1psi of each other. We didn't have the equipment to do a leak down check or else we would have done that too. The motor oil was clear and no signs of water.
Next, we timed the motor.....the timing was set to 30 degrees at 2,500 rpms....we left it alone.
Once I got home I went ahead and replaced all the cooling lines that were not replaced during the engine install......(the old hoses were in good shape, replaced them anyway). I connected the garden hose to the cooling line disconnect into the motor and ran the motor for 25-30 minutes...and could not get the motor to overheat. Water was flowing from both exhaust pipes while the motor was running and while it was turned off....no blockage. I didn't have much water pressure on the garden hose and even reduced the flow into the motor and still could not get the motor to run warm/hot. I then looked at the cooling line coming from the pump and ran the hose into the pump and there was no blockage there either.
After reconnecting the cooling hose from the pump to the engine, we went to the lake. We backed the boat into the water and left it on the trailer. I fired up the motor and almost immediately the water temperature on the gauge started to climb (the lake water is temperature 84F). I disconnected the cooling line at the pump, while the motor was running, and water was shooting in about six inches. I revved the motor and the flow increased with an rpm increase. I didn't try to cap the end to feel how much pressure was coming in nor did I put a pressure gauge on it to see the actual pump pressure.
I called Josh at JBP yesterday and talked with him at length (Oh BTW, great guy with tons and tons of knowledge) and he asked me to see if I could move my pump shaft fore and aft. The answer to that question is yes, there is some movement with the pump shaft however I am not sure how much is too much. I didn't try to move the pump shaft up and down to check for excessive wear ring wear though. Anyway, Josh seems to think that with the pump in the water and motor running, the imp is pushing the shaft forward and either causing a cooling flow blockage or some other issue and recommends a complete rebuild of the pump. He said he’s seen this happen before and thinks that by re-building the pump, we should be able to remedy the cooling issue.
Per Josh’s recommendation, I’m going to use the Aggressor-A impeller which, according to him is the equivalent to a Berkley AA imp and perfect for a cruiser my size in the 450hp range. He said I’ll get a little more “out of the hole†performance without a loss of top end speed…and also reducing my WOT RPM from 5,200 to 4,900 RPM......which will put that motor into an ideal HP range at WOT. The entire pump rebuild kit from JBP is $479 which included all the gaskets, thrust bearing, new imp and bushings.
James, it looks like I’ll be borrowing that Imp puller tool of Mikes here in the next few days. I should have the parts at the house by next Wednesday and have the pump rebuilt by Saturday…… hope I didn’t just jinx myself. Lol. think.gif
EDIT: Oh, BTW...Stacey (FL350) provided some helpful advice too concerning the troubleshooting....thanks bro.
About 2-3 weeks ago James, Ricky and I did a compression check on all the cylinders with a slightly warm engine. The results were all cylinders were 130psi +/- 1psi of each other. We didn't have the equipment to do a leak down check or else we would have done that too. The motor oil was clear and no signs of water.
Next, we timed the motor.....the timing was set to 30 degrees at 2,500 rpms....we left it alone.
Once I got home I went ahead and replaced all the cooling lines that were not replaced during the engine install......(the old hoses were in good shape, replaced them anyway). I connected the garden hose to the cooling line disconnect into the motor and ran the motor for 25-30 minutes...and could not get the motor to overheat. Water was flowing from both exhaust pipes while the motor was running and while it was turned off....no blockage. I didn't have much water pressure on the garden hose and even reduced the flow into the motor and still could not get the motor to run warm/hot. I then looked at the cooling line coming from the pump and ran the hose into the pump and there was no blockage there either.
After reconnecting the cooling hose from the pump to the engine, we went to the lake. We backed the boat into the water and left it on the trailer. I fired up the motor and almost immediately the water temperature on the gauge started to climb (the lake water is temperature 84F). I disconnected the cooling line at the pump, while the motor was running, and water was shooting in about six inches. I revved the motor and the flow increased with an rpm increase. I didn't try to cap the end to feel how much pressure was coming in nor did I put a pressure gauge on it to see the actual pump pressure.
I called Josh at JBP yesterday and talked with him at length (Oh BTW, great guy with tons and tons of knowledge) and he asked me to see if I could move my pump shaft fore and aft. The answer to that question is yes, there is some movement with the pump shaft however I am not sure how much is too much. I didn't try to move the pump shaft up and down to check for excessive wear ring wear though. Anyway, Josh seems to think that with the pump in the water and motor running, the imp is pushing the shaft forward and either causing a cooling flow blockage or some other issue and recommends a complete rebuild of the pump. He said he’s seen this happen before and thinks that by re-building the pump, we should be able to remedy the cooling issue.
Per Josh’s recommendation, I’m going to use the Aggressor-A impeller which, according to him is the equivalent to a Berkley AA imp and perfect for a cruiser my size in the 450hp range. He said I’ll get a little more “out of the hole†performance without a loss of top end speed…and also reducing my WOT RPM from 5,200 to 4,900 RPM......which will put that motor into an ideal HP range at WOT. The entire pump rebuild kit from JBP is $479 which included all the gaskets, thrust bearing, new imp and bushings.
James, it looks like I’ll be borrowing that Imp puller tool of Mikes here in the next few days. I should have the parts at the house by next Wednesday and have the pump rebuilt by Saturday…… hope I didn’t just jinx myself. Lol. think.gif
EDIT: Oh, BTW...Stacey (FL350) provided some helpful advice too concerning the troubleshooting....thanks bro.
blazeracer
New member
You gonna lift and support the back of the motor and pull the pump out or pull the motor and rebuild the pump in the boat? The shaft comes out from the front of the pump. With a three point mount you have to do one of the two.
Crusader
Moderator
blazeracer said:
My plan is to disconnect the bell housing from the pump and support the rear of the motor with a scissor jack or some blocks of wood.....and i won't move the boat while the pump is out. I don't want to pull that motor again.
Both EOSpeed and Josh at JBP recommended this method rather than pulling the engine.
blazeracer
New member
I have another tool you will need that I made to hold the pump shaft to remove the impeller nut while the pump is out.