460 buildup

KONA77

New member
here's where mine are at now  :smile30:

  just a little sanding and a buffing bob on a cordless drill and some elbow grease  :smile16:
 

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blazeracer

New member
Oh yeah, they look great. You have to get to the intake next... right??  bling.gif

Alright, heading home for the night...
 

KONA77

New member
blazeracer said:
KONA said:
mine did not have clear on them,  but was pitted up badly,  still working that out,  but my whole process started out with 1000 to 2000 grit sand paper,  lightly,  polished with rubbing compound til the haze went away, and then hand polished to remove the residue.....  i put a post in another thread about my process....  i believe it was in protecting bare aluminum thread.....  it can be done takes some time,  all honesty,  i do a little every year,  but i slacked this year.....  :smile19:

I may just let it ride like it is then. As you can see people like Cliff are waiting.... LOL

They don't look too bad and are going to be buried in an engine compartment that has no room to see them anyhoo. My engine compartment had side walls that are so close you have to put the bolts thru the headers before sliding them into position for bolting down, with the risers already attached or you'll NEVER get them on.

I still need the correct Ohm engine temp and oil pressure senders to come in then the motor's ready to drop in, but the boats not ready for the motor. I don't want to get paint and metal flake all over my new motor!!

that's a big 10-4  :smile27:

blazeracer said:
Oh yeah, they look great. You have to get to the intake next... right??  bling.gif

nope intake staying just the way it is :grin:
 

blazeracer

New member
Well, this baby is sitting on the stand waiting to be fired. Does anyone in the DFW area have a set of 460 headers I can borrow? I may build a cradle, then fire it up to do the cam break in. I can rig a water system with a tub and the bilge pump. Fuel to the carb is easy enough. Could maybe just plumb the logs back in for exhaust and use a water hose for supply, but that's only two motor mounts away from just putting it back in.

Maybe that's the ticket, just put it back in..
 

Cookieman

New member
Put it in and fire it up. You most likely did everything right. Looks good. Make sure to take a video with sound.
 

duanehydro

Active member
I do suggest breaking in the cam before hooking up the pump. .02

I have several sets of headers....but I ain't shipping a set.... :smile16: :smile30:
 

blazeracer

New member
Last Mohican said:
I thought you were going to break it in on the dyno?

Yeah, there's that too.. That involves a little logistics to get er done.. Still an option though. I was hoping to get it running on a rack out back for the cam break in, then take a running motor to the dyno guy.
 

blazeracer

New member
Ok, gonna drop the motor back in her tonight.. But first just want to be sure about the plumbing since I didn't write it down.

Water flow goes from the pump, to the logs to preheat, out of the logs and to the water pump inlets, then out through the intake manifold to the snails, correct?
 

79 CVX 20

New member
Crusader said:
You can still bring that craftsman tool back to sears and get a free replacement.

I tried to take a vise back to them that I had bought 30 years before and they said it was no longer warranted and tried to sell me a Chinese one.  Basically one of the same ones that Harbor freight has for 40% less. No reason to buy one of them either. They did not have a vice that would hold on to even one of my jobs. One to replace the one I bought from them would be over $275 now. Wonder who to talk to. I still need a vice or advice. Any ideas?
 

blazeracer

New member
Another water flow question...  The drawing is rudimentary but it gets the job done.

Where does the water hose connection go? I would think it goes on the incoming line, but what I took off wasn't there judging by the hoses I have here. It was on one of the lines running to a snail before.

Also, I have nothing restricting water flow coming into the engine. I've heard this CAN be a problem for some motors. To some people put a ball valve on the incoming line to restrict water flow, correct?
 

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Patchman

Administrator
Staff member
The hose connection should be in the feed line. I don't think you will have much in the way of pressure issues due to the fact it can exit out both risers. Some jets only have one exit not two. My .02. think.gif
 

KONA77

New member
water hose connection should be input line from the pump and close to the pump,  a ball valve is a good idea also,  to shut off the water flow from the pump in case of an emergency,  do to a water leak....  this valve can be used to reduce the water flow to raise engine temp if desired, but not necessary on log manifolded fords.... just my 1/2 cents worth
 

TintMan

New member
blazeracer said:
Another water flow question...  The drawing is rudimentary but it gets the job done.

Where does the water hose connection go? I would think it goes on the incoming line, but what I took off wasn't there judging by the hoses I have here. It was on one of the lines running to a snail before.

Also, I have nothing restricting water flow coming into the engine. I've heard this CAN be a problem for some motors. To some people put a ball valve on the incoming line to restrict water flow, correct?
correct! and what patch and kona said..correct too.
 

blazeracer

New member
Yeah, it was $10 for a ball valve so I bought one. I'm gonna put it on the supply hose. I'm thinking that the water hose connector was in the wrong spot because if it's on the feed line (the way it was) all the water just runs out the pump and never gets to the motor?? With a ball valve I can close it and all the water will go into the motor, or crack it an leave a trickle going into the pump and the main brunt going into the motor.

Either way, the hose connector was on the line running from the waterneck to the snail before. Definitely wrong.
 
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