Need some help and advice

[ChryslerJet]

My steering is cable like that with some pulleys and chain and sprocket. Take all the hardware off and check it is what I'd do. Rush it you'll lose it.

James mine doesn't have pulleys.  It has sheathed cable from the steering box to the rear adjusters.  Open cable is only from the adjusters to the quadrant.  The cables are rusted frozen into the sheaths. It still could be the steering box though.

 

[ChryslerJet]

The casale drive is out thanks to some advise from tim.  Now to figure out how to get it up to JJ.  Anyone from Centex or south heading to DFW.  Or any northies going to be down Austin to san Antonio areas?  This thing is heavy.  I can ship if need be but will compensate any member that is already making the journey and dropping it off to JJ.  Anyone have an idea on the weight.  If not I'll weigh it tomorrow.  Have some bubble wrap and cardboard will box it up in.

 

[beaverfab]

It will weight around 70lb.  Last one I shipped to Austin was $48.00 with Fed-ex. You will have to drain all the oil from the v drive. My shipping address is BeaverFab  838 HCR 1413 West, Covington Tx. 76636

 

[Disturbed]

There should be a couple of tapped, unused holes in the coupler.  Thread a couple bolts into them to spread the coupler loose.  Good luck!!!!

thanks tim will look at it as soon as the clearcoat dries.

Tim worked great.  Now any tricks to taking out the prop shaft?

Prop shaft should slide right out.

 

[KONA77]

If you have the coupler off the shaft,  just a tip,  if there is any surface rust or roughness smooth with scotch brite and if your strutt bushing is the rubber one and some liquids soap to the shaft or you could use KY.  Lol

 

[ChryslerJet]

It will weight around 70lb.  Last one I shipped to Austin was $48.00 with Fed-ex. You will have to drain all the oil from the v drive. My shipping address is BeaverFab  838 HCR 1413 West, Covington Tx. 76636

thanks JJ

 

[ChryslerJet]

There should be a couple of tapped, unused holes in the coupler.  Thread a couple bolts into them to spread the coupler loose.  Good luck!!!!

thanks tim will look at it as soon as the clearcoat dries.

Tim worked great.  Now any tricks to taking out the prop shaft?

It slide right out until it came to the rudder, need to remove the rudder to get it out completely.  Once it's out should I remove the prop from the shaft?  Am I just looking for damage, cracks, breaks, pits and anything else? 

Thanks for all the advise guys.

Oh and I should remove the two bolts from the coupler holding it apart while its torn down right or does it matter?  Should I remove anything else from the boat besides the rudder, steering and prop shaft.

 

[Crusader]

Are you taking pictures to document where everything is for when it's time to put it all back together?

 

[Disturbed]

If you take the prop off first, you wouldn't have to take the rudder out.  And yes, once the prop is off, check for cracks.  Magnaflux or die penetrant would work just fine.  Pay particular attention in the hub area.  It would be best if you sent it out to someone who knows what and where to look.

 

[73 Sanger Flat]

There should be a couple of tapped, unused holes in the coupler.  Thread a couple bolts into them to spread the coupler loose.  Good luck!!!!

thanks tim will look at it as soon as the clearcoat dries.

Tim worked great.  Now any tricks to taking out the prop shaft?

It slide right out until it came to the rudder, need to remove the rudder to get it out completely.  Once it's out should I remove the prop from the shaft?  Am I just looking for damage, cracks, breaks, pits and anything else? 

Thanks for all the advise guys.

Oh and I should remove the two bolts from the coupler holding it apart while its torn down right or does it matter?  Should I remove anything else from the boat besides the rudder, steering and prop shaft.

yes remove the tension on the coupler , never leave it forced open.. Can you remove the prop ? If so the shaft may slide past the rudder . Some will and some will not clear .. Mine will clear the prop shaft and the rudder once the get the prop off . Need to check for cracks on prop shaft , prop, rudder  and any under water hardware.. You will need to borrow a prop puller to get it off .. Put some tension on the puller and pop the puller with a hammer , like you would removing a tie rod end .. If you have to, you may have to put some heat on the prop .. Important note .. Leave the prop nut on the prop shaft to keep the prop from coming off and hitting you .. Some time the props get stuck bad on the prop shaft ..  JJ had to pull mine once .. He has a MONSTER prop puller that will pull any stuck prop off .

 

[ChryslerJet]

Couple pics of it removed

 

[ChryslerJet]

Are you taking pictures to document where everything is for when it's time to put it all back together?

Yes Cliff I am but there is not much to it.  The water lines are the biggest challenge and they are mostly gone so will have to figure that out anyways.

Here is a shot of the prop



Not sure the shaft will come out once the prop is off with that rudder.  The rudder looks like it is extra long but I could be wrong on that.

 

[ChryslerJet]

Anyone have an idea what this type of hull would be called.  It is basically flat on the bottom.  The front looks like it would be a tunnel hull but it goes flat after about the front 4-5 feet.

 

[73 Sanger Flat]

the shaft should slide out to the side of the rudder if it is going to . Not under it ..
Look staright at the shaft from the back  and compare it to the rudder.. Most are just offset enough to get them out ..

 

[ChryslerJet]

the shaft should slide out to the side of the rudder if it is going to . Not under it ..
Look staright at the shaft from the back  and compare it to the rudder.. Most are just offset enough to get them out ..

Talked to JJ about it and based on the year and the pics I have it looks like it was built prior to them offsetting them.  Going to have to pull the rudder to pull the shaft.  Need to get a puller or borrow one from somebody.  Maybe will just take it up to Steel creek in two weeks and have JJ do it or maybe I can use my press to get it off.

The mounting plate that goes through the split case has a crack in it too so it will have to be repaired or replaced.

 

[jerjrvette]

Tap on it with a light ball peen hammer, soak it with penetrating oil and let her sit till your patience is gone and try again! Good Luck, JR

 

[beaverfab]

CJ got your  v-drive Friday will take apart Monday. thanks j.j.

 

[ChryslerJet]

CJ got your  v-drive Friday will take apart Monday. thanks j.j.

thanks JJ give me a call on the mid plate and let me know what u find.  when i drained the oil there was no water.