Exhaust tip removal and installation

[customtouch]

I may be alright with the flat mount style then. Will check mine with one of those angle finder doohickeys, but looks pretty close to mine. Thanks for the pics!

So since my transom has no holes, when we do cut them I guess I can just coat the exposed wood with resin? Thats what I was told when putting the other new holes in it. Guess this shouldn't be any different.

I have always just coated the hole with 3m 5200. I also use it to seal the tip in from the outside too instead of regular silicone.

 

[duanehydro]

Good luck getting those back out..... crazy.gif

 

[customtouch]

Good luck getting those back out..... crazy.gif

Do it right....Do it once....and you don't have to get them back out!!!  :grin: It is how most of the big boat manufacturers do it.

P.S. I have pulled the factory ones off that used 5200 and it is not that bad. You just have to slide a putty knife in between the tip and transom. Usually with a hammer!! LOL!!!

 

[Crusader]

Custom.

When the metal corrodes, you're screwed if using 5200. I'd use the GAP II Silicone to seal them.....water cooled exhaust is not hot enough to melt it.

 

[duanehydro]

Don't get me wrong, 5200 is sum badboy-stuff...has it's place.

 

[customtouch]

Custom.

When the metal corrodes, you're screwed if using 5200. I'd use the GAP II Silicone to seal them.....water cooled exhaust is not hot enough to melt it.

I have always just dealt with SS tips so I have never seen corrosion be a problem.

 

[ChryslerJet]

The tips on the CJ were siliconed on and were a bitch to get off as it was I can't imagine if they were put on with 5200.  Although thats what I might do since I have a bunch of it.

 

[customtouch]

I agree that it might be over kill using it to seal the tip (I like over kill) but regardless if you are scared to use it on the outside, it will still work very well to seal the cut out section of the hole.

 

[Crusader]

Custom.

When the metal corrodes, you're screwed if using 5200. I'd use the GAP II Silicone to seal them.....water cooled exhaust is not hot enough to melt it.

I have always just dealt with SS tips so I have never seen corrosion be a problem.

That's cool bro. You have way more experience in this are than I do.

Appreciate ya.

 

[customtouch]

Custom.

When the metal corrodes, you're screwed if using 5200. I'd use the GAP II Silicone to seal them.....water cooled exhaust is not hot enough to melt it.

I have always just dealt with SS tips so I have never seen corrosion be a problem.

That's cool bro. You have way more experience in this are than I do.

Appreciate ya.

I am not so sure about that. Keep in mind that my experience has all been on offshore boats with SS everything and water "jacketed" headers which run a lot cooler than water "injected" exhaust. They are totally different animals which may render my advice null & void. It's just all about offering different options!! :smile30:

 

[customtouch]

FWIW. There are two different flapper designs that I have seen. A single flapper like this one you have and a two piece flapper like the one Corsa makes and I have had both. IMO the single flapper is a far better design. The Corsa's that I had we're constantly hanging open and I noticed them stuck open on several other boats too which is just asking for problems. I never had or have seen this style of flapper hang open yet. I will never own a set of Corsa's again. High dollar but they suck!!!

 

[Crusader]

Hey kenny...here ya go.

 

[Crusader]

This thread is a continuation from this link below.

http://www.texashotboats.com/forums/index.php?topic=11790.30

 

[Devilman]

Thanks... "Engine Talk" go figure...  :grin:

 

[Crusader]

Lol....