Crusader re-wire

Crusader

Moderator
Well, it’s time to tackle the rewriting of my rig. While I’m at it I plan on doing several other fixes and upgrades. Here she is with the interior stripped out and also some of the pump. I’ll keep posting as progress is made.

Agenda items:

o Rewire boat – add quick disconnect connector
o Replace Engine compartment blower motor (new part)
o Replace fuse block (new part)
o Wire fuel gauge to 3 pos switch so we can read fuel in either tank from one gauge
o Add Perko switch (new part)
o Add kill switch (new part)
o Replace fuel tank level senders in both tanks
o Rewire bow light (has huge power draw when turned on….new gripe)
o Replace steering wheel and column
o Add transom seal to diverter cable
o Drill and tap peg on diverter
o Replace port fuel tank cap
o Install new alternator bracket, align alternator
o Replace carpeting in boat
o Trailer bunks
o Fender pads
 

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Crusader

Moderator
Brazos River Rat ( Billy ) said:
sounds like a good plan .. Wish i could get energetic enough to work on mine .. 
I am getting some wiring help by my buddy Andy....he's good at this wiring stuff.
 

jimsplace

Active member
Crusader said:
Brazos River Rat ( Billy ) said:
sounds like a good plan .. Wish i could get energetic enough to work on mine .. 
I am getting some wiring help by my buddy Andy....he's good at this wiring stuff.

I'd recommend using actual "Marine Wire."  It's more flexible and will have many more strands of wire (finer) than more common type auto wire, and it's tinned.  The strands actually look silver and not copper colored to help reduce corrosion.  Marine wire carries more current than auto wire of the same gauge.  It will cost some more.  Color coding helps too when trouble shooting.
    :smile17:
 

Crusader

Moderator
jimsplace said:
Crusader said:
Brazos River Rat ( Billy ) said:
sounds like a good plan .. Wish i could get energetic enough to work on mine .. 
I am getting some wiring help by my buddy Andy....he's good at this wiring stuff.
I'd recommend using actual "Marine Wire."  It's more flexible and will have many more strands of wire (finer) than more common type auto wire, and it's tinned.  The strands actually look silver and not copper colored to help reduce corrosion.  Marine wire carries more current than auto wire of the same gauge.  It will cost some more.  Color coding helps too when trouble shooting.
    :smile17:

Thanks Jim.

This is the wire assortment I ordered and am using. I am going to color code everything to typical marine color coding.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY4QF58/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Devilman said:
Good deal, was wondering when you were gonna start up on all that. Be following for sure.

For sure....I love project pages so this one will be very well documented.....that's what I'm shooting for anyway.

Patchman said:
Keep us poseted! jump.gif jump.gif jump.gif

Lol...I'll keep ya "poseted" bro....lol.
 

whitetrash148

New member
IMHP I would not use alum wire, even copper clad in a boat due to electrolysis, and no it does not have anything to do with hair removal.
 

jimsplace

Active member
whitetrash148 said:
IMHP I would not use alum wire, even copper clad in a boat due to electrolysis, and no it does not have anything to do with hair removal.

I agree, the use of aluminum wire would not be good.

I don't know if you're responding to my recommending marine wire, which is copper wire that has each strand tinned to prevent corrosion, but it is not aluminum.
 

Crusader

Moderator
Just picked up a new pump and Mandingo sized hose!
 

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Crusader

Moderator
I’m going to add a 4 degree wedge to the pump. Hope to get a little more rooster tail out of her.
 

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