converting 12jf electric jetovator to manual cable place diverter.

[SimplyOrange]

Mine trims up pretty easy, its not that much force on it. Hell my wife does it when she runs the boat. :grin: But you will need something to lock it into place foir sure.

As Gas-Hole mentioned, some of the top notches on my controller are rounded off as well & the lever won't stay put, it'll slip out & drop down a notch or two if I don't hold it in place. I've had it happen, the tail just drops down, but never been a "loss of control" type situation. Loss of roost height control I guess. :cheesy:

If you have the stuff there to put it together & a little time, I don't see what it could hurt. Sounds like it will work to me, other than a possible cable travel issue (too much/not enough). Only way to know is to try it. If you do it just make sure nobody is behind ya when you go up with the diverter, which I would assume most people do that anyway. :wink:

thanks for the info, i have an idea and a backup idea,i think your wife would have a hard time moving my controls right now, but if it does slip, i just got done drawing up a lock on autocad that i could add in 1 day.
that is if i cant put enough drag on the cable combined with the detent springs to overcome the force of it moving.theres got to be a point where i can get enough resistance to be equal to me holding the lever.

i think im about to order the cable and hook it all up, may try it out this weekend. now is perfect time to test stuff because i have the whole river and launch to myself.

Like D-man said, it would not be unsafe if it slips while underway, it will just drop the bow, but you WILL need to adjust it while underway, If you set it to roost underway you wont leave the hole with it set like that, IE; Nozzel down to leave, then Nozzel up while underway to Trim/Roost. AND, If I am reading this correctly, the solid wire Morse cable that the controller uses for Engine control is not near strong enough to control the Nozzle.

depends what series cable, the 60 series has a pull load of 260lbs, the 80 series is more, you are thinking of the light duty 30 series tahat i wouldnt run anyways.

 

[Becket]

Mine trims up pretty easy, its not that much force on it. Hell my wife does it when she runs the boat. :grin: But you will need something to lock it into place foir sure.

As Gas-Hole mentioned, some of the top notches on my controller are rounded off as well & the lever won't stay put, it'll slip out & drop down a notch or two if I don't hold it in place. I've had it happen, the tail just drops down, but never been a "loss of control" type situation. Loss of roost height control I guess. :cheesy:

If you have the stuff there to put it together & a little time, I don't see what it could hurt. Sounds like it will work to me, other than a possible cable travel issue (too much/not enough). Only way to know is to try it. If you do it just make sure nobody is behind ya when you go up with the diverter, which I would assume most people do that anyway. :wink:

thanks for the info, i have an idea and a backup idea,i think your wife would have a hard time moving my controls right now, but if it does slip, i just got done drawing up a lock on autocad that i could add in 1 day.
that is if i cant put enough drag on the cable combined with the detent springs to overcome the force of it moving.theres got to be a point where i can get enough resistance to be equal to me holding the lever.

i think im about to order the cable and hook it all up, may try it out this weekend. now is perfect time to test stuff because i have the whole river and launch to myself.

Like D-man said, it would not be unsafe if it slips while underway, it will just drop the bow, but you WILL need to adjust it while underway, If you set it to roost underway you wont leave the hole with it set like that, IE; Nozzel down to leave, then Nozzel up while underway to Trim/Roost. AND, If I am reading this correctly, the solid wire Morse cable that the controller uses for Engine control is not near strong enough to control the Nozzle.

depends what series cable, the 60 series has a pull load of 260lbs, the 80 series is more, you are thinking of the light duty 30 series tahat i wouldnt run anyways.

Whats the push load on that cable? all the strain is gonna be push load if you are setting it up like the one in the picture.

 

[SimplyOrange]

180lbs, why is the cable going to have push tension?, the pump has a natural tendancy to pull on the cable doesnt it? which is why it would be pulling the lever out of position....

found this though, i wont even need the lever, i could put the t in the dash and just pull it out to trim then twist and lock, although i dont really like it, i still want both forward reverse and trim to be mounted on the floor to my right.

http://www.teleflex.com.au/Products.aspx?Series=11

if i get an 80 series to fit my controls itll have 500lb push and 700lb pull with 4" of travel which is what i need.

 

[Becket]

180lbs, why is the cable going to have push tension?, the pump has a natural tendancy to pull on the cable doesnt it? which is why it would be pulling the lever out of position....

found this though, i wont even need the lever, i could put the t in the dash and just pull it out to trim then twist and lock, although i dont really like it, i still want both forward reverse and trim to be mounted on the floor to my right.

http://www.teleflex.com.au/Products.aspx?Series=11

if i get an 80 series to fit my controls itll have 500lb push and 700lb pull with 4" of travel which is what i need.

The Nozzle is gonna try to be straight, the force of the water comming out of the pump is gonna try to keep it straight, so what ever force it takes to hold it up is the force you will have on the cable, from the picture, you will have to "push" your nozzle up. you wont be holding it down, you are gonna be holding it up.

 

[SimplyOrange]

180lbs, why is the cable going to have push tension?, the pump has a natural tendancy to pull on the cable doesnt it? which is why it would be pulling the lever out of position....

found this though, i wont even need the lever, i could put the t in the dash and just pull it out to trim then twist and lock, although i dont really like it, i still want both forward reverse and trim to be mounted on the floor to my right.

http://www.teleflex.com.au/Products.aspx?Series=11

if i get an 80 series to fit my controls itll have 500lb push and 700lb pull with 4" of travel which is what i need.

The Nozzle is gonna try to be straight, the force of the water comming out of the pump is gonna try to keep it straight, so what ever force it takes to hold it up is the force you will have on the cable, from the picture, you will have to "push" your nozzle up. you wont be holding it down, you are gonna be holding it up.

ok, that explains why when i went home today to measure the cable,the cable was loose meaning it must have been riding at straight out, which is good because i was worried i wouldnt have any more trim. either way i found options for cables,im going to email teleflex and see how much for a set of 80 series with 500/700lb push/pull ratings. either way i will need a cable and if i cant get my lever to work i can just buy a place diverter control and drop it in place.it seems like buying from anywhere else is cheaper than buying from place diverter.

 

[soldier of fortune]

it really isnt that difficult to convert your jetovator to manual, send me a pic of the pump including the jetovator and i will tell ya how, mine had a 43c or a 43bc cable coming from the manual controller

 

[SimplyOrange]

it really isnt that difficult to convert your jetovator to manual, send me a pic of the pump including the jetovator and i will tell ya how, mine had a 43c or a 43bc cable coming from the manual controller

i know it wont be hard, the fitting on my pump and bracket on my bowl will just blot right up using a cable with clamp style mounts on both ends, im just trying to go outside of the box and use the morse controls as the lever to make a really clean trim/gear selector. im going to use a teleflex tfxtreme cable that costs $45 instead of a $95 place diverter one that is made by teleflex., if my controls wont hold it then ill just have to buy a diverter control and itll bolt right together.

 

[SimplyOrange]

looks like ill have a diverter control and cable on the way before the weekend, when it gets here im still going to test out my original idea.

for the time being im about to ditch the old school relays on the jetovator and replace them with modern ones and see if itll start working again, the motor works if it is hot wired. if it works good then ill have the jetovator motor and cable for sale soon with upgraded relay parts,i also have a part number for the motor to get from napa so all parts would be replaceable.