converting 12jf electric jetovator to manual cable place diverter.

[SimplyOrange]

i dont plan on buying the nozzel,one reason is because i think it will work if i just buy the cable and floor mount control, in this pic...which one mounts to the controls? if the end with the large nuts on it mounts to the controls then its basically a drop in swap because the small end of the cable will clip into my existing cable mounts on my pump.

http://www.placediverter.com/products.php?cat=12

cable is $95 new, hopefully i can find a cheap control for it.

 

[SimplyOrange]

bump, looking to buy control.

 

[soldier of fortune]

post a good pic of your jetovator set up now on the pump

 

[SimplyOrange]

here is the pump end, , either way im sure i can make a bracket to make it work. im about to call keith again, he says he has a control handle, once i get that im going to take a measurement and order a cable, looks like thats the most reliable and affordable route. i just want to know which end of the cable is the part tht goes to the pump....

 

[SimplyOrange]

well i have an idea, the picture below is a set of controls out of my 25' martini(when it had a single) im looking at using the short handle for reverse/forward, and the long handle for trim adjustment, i got this idea  by looking at push pull cables and realizing that my forward/reverse cable will hook right up to these controls, and a $30 push/pull cable has the same end as my current "jetovator" cable, the other end will hook right to these controls, plus itll be a nice clean installation. btw, the big handle on the offshore controls has internal ball bearing catches that hold it in place and the little handle has 3 postition locks(f/n/r)...any thoughts?

 

[spd500]

Might work , does it have the right amount of travel ? I would take it apart and see if you could make more than three stop points , maybe drill a few extras in between the ones you have now . I am guessing you are talking about a spring loaded ball that goes into detent type stops ? If so you should be able to drill extra stops .

 

[SimplyOrange]

Might work , does it have the right amount of travel ? I would take it apart and see if you could make more than three stop points , maybe drill a few extras in between the ones you have now . I am guessing you are talking about a spring loaded ball that goes into detent type stops ? If so you should be able to drill extra stops .

yeah, it has the spring loaded ball bearings, the long lever has plenty of spots because it is meant for throttle stop points, the short lever has 3 positions but that good because im going to hook up my forward/neutral/reverse cable to it and have all of my controls in one spot. i think they will have plety of travel.

 

[Last Mohecian]

I bet it will work.  Most of these type controls use a Morris style cable.  They are pretty standard in travel length.

 

[Becket]

Might work , does it have the right amount of travel ? I would take it apart and see if you could make more than three stop points , maybe drill a few extras in between the ones you have now . I am guessing you are talking about a spring loaded ball that goes into detent type stops ? If so you should be able to drill extra stops .

yeah, it has the spring loaded ball bearings, the long lever has plenty of spots because it is meant for throttle stop points, the short lever has 3 positions but that good because im going to hook up my forward/neutral/reverse cable to it and have all of my controls in one spot. i think they will have plety of travel.

S.O., There is gonna be Allot of pressure on that cable, I dont think what you are trying is gonna work, Morse Engine controls don't lock in place like a Diverter control, Engine controls use "Detent" to stay in place, not a Physical "lock" like the Diverter control. My O2.

 

[spd500]

Good point , kinda wondered about that .

 

[SimplyOrange]

im looking at that right now, im going to try to figure out a way to make it lock better..

 

[SimplyOrange]

i took it apart, by doubling the number of springs and bearings on the big lever i can double the locking force, there is still a place to add springs to triple the original holding force, if i do that do you think it will hold? if it had that much pressure you would not be able to trim up while driving using a standard jetovator control i would think. how hard is it to move a diverter while under power using a manual control? i think if this little crummy motor can hold the force than this thing will.

im going to try to find some springs and ball bearings tomorrow

 

[spd500]

You already have the part , so it will not cost anything to give it a try . Worst case , you gotta get a control handle .

 

[SimplyOrange]

You already have the part , so it will not cost anything to give it a try . Worst case , you gotta get a control handle .

true, it would kinda suck to buy a $35 control cable and then not use it though. i guess thats what im going to do.

can anybody tell me how hard it is to pull the diverter up while under power?

 

[Last Mohecian]

S.O., There is gonna be Allot of pressure on that cable, I dont think what you are trying is gonna work, Morse Engine controls don't lock in place like a Diverter control, Engine controls use "Detent" to stay in place, not a Physical "lock" like the Diverter control. My O2.

Good call.  Totally forgot about that.  It sure would suck to hurt someone because the diverter suddenly went down and your boat shoots left or right.  Might think twice about this one SO.

 

[Becket]

You already have the part , so it will not cost anything to give it a try . Worst case , you gotta get a control handle .

true, it would kinda suck to buy a $35 control cable and then not use it though. i guess thats what im going to do.

can anybody tell me how hard it is to pull the diverter up while under power?

I can't tell you in pounds but it is allot! I am actualy gonna have to use a die grinder to "Re-square" the lock notches in my control Gate becuse it has rounded the top three notches in the gate! I honestly think you are wasting your time, and if you are gonna have to buy a cable to get it to work, then do the right thing and get a Diverter control, thats the safest thing to do.

 

[SimplyOrange]

You already have the part , so it will not cost anything to give it a try . Worst case , you gotta get a control handle .

true, it would kinda suck to buy a $35 control cable and then not use it though. i guess thats what im going to do.

can anybody tell me how hard it is to pull the diverter up while under power?

I can't tell you in pounds but it is allot! I am actualy gonna have to use a die grinder to "Re-square" the lock notches in my control Gate because it has rounded the top three notches in the gate! I honestly think you are wasting your time, and if you are gonna have to buy a cable to get it to work, then do the right thing and get a Diverter control, thats the safest thing to do.

thats why i wanted to know how hard it was to adjust, like do you have to strain the push it foreward? the way i have the springs set up right now it would basically be impossible to adjust while moving if it required any more force than it does to break the detent springs loose...its stout right now.i took all of the springs off of the little lever, took out the center piece and made it a single lever for the time being using all the springs and bearings i had,

i definitley dont want it to break loose while riding.but i also want to get rid of my left side mounted forward/reverse handle and move it to the middle with a diverter control.dont count me out yet, i may fab a catch plate and release lever to beef up this control.. if it dont work i believe the cable i am going to buy will also work with a diverter control.

can somebody post pics of the diverter control where the cable mounts so i can make sure?

 

[Devilman]

Mine trims up pretty easy, its not that much force on it. Hell my wife does it when she runs the boat. :grin: But you will need something to lock it into place foir sure.

As Gas-Hole mentioned, some of the top notches on my controller are rounded off as well & the lever won't stay put, it'll slip out & drop down a notch or two if I don't hold it in place. I've had it happen, the tail just drops down, but never been a "loss of control" type situation. Loss of roost height control I guess. :cheesy:

If you have the stuff there to put it together & a little time, I don't see what it could hurt. Sounds like it will work to me, other than a possible cable travel issue (too much/not enough). Only way to know is to try it. If you do it just make sure nobody is behind ya when you go up with the diverter, which I would assume most people do that anyway. :wink:

 

[SimplyOrange]

Mine trims up pretty easy, its not that much force on it. Hell my wife does it when she runs the boat. :grin: But you will need something to lock it into place foir sure.

As Gas-Hole mentioned, some of the top notches on my controller are rounded off as well & the lever won't stay put, it'll slip out & drop down a notch or two if I don't hold it in place. I've had it happen, the tail just drops down, but never been a "loss of control" type situation. Loss of roost height control I guess. :cheesy:

If you have the stuff there to put it together & a little time, I don't see what it could hurt. Sounds like it will work to me, other than a possible cable travel issue (too much/not enough). Only way to know is to try it. If you do it just make sure nobody is behind ya when you go up with the diverter, which I would assume most people do that anyway. :wink:

thanks for the info, i have an idea and a backup idea,i think your wife would have a hard time moving my controls right now, but if it does slip, i just got done drawing up a lock on autocad that i could add in 1 day.
that is if i cant put enough drag on the cable combined with the detent springs to overcome the force of it moving.theres got to be a point where i can get enough resistance to be equal to me holding the lever.

i think im about to order the cable and hook it all up, may try it out this weekend. now is perfect time to test stuff because i have the whole river and launch to myself.

 

[Becket]

Mine trims up pretty easy, its not that much force on it. Hell my wife does it when she runs the boat. :grin: But you will need something to lock it into place foir sure.

As Gas-Hole mentioned, some of the top notches on my controller are rounded off as well & the lever won't stay put, it'll slip out & drop down a notch or two if I don't hold it in place. I've had it happen, the tail just drops down, but never been a "loss of control" type situation. Loss of roost height control I guess. :cheesy:

If you have the stuff there to put it together & a little time, I don't see what it could hurt. Sounds like it will work to me, other than a possible cable travel issue (too much/not enough). Only way to know is to try it. If you do it just make sure nobody is behind ya when you go up with the diverter, which I would assume most people do that anyway. :wink:

thanks for the info, i have an idea and a backup idea,i think your wife would have a hard time moving my controls right now, but if it does slip, i just got done drawing up a lock on autocad that i could add in 1 day.
that is if i cant put enough drag on the cable combined with the detent springs to overcome the force of it moving.theres got to be a point where i can get enough resistance to be equal to me holding the lever.

i think im about to order the cable and hook it all up, may try it out this weekend. now is perfect time to test stuff because i have the whole river and launch to myself.

Like D-man said, it would not be unsafe if it slips while underway, it will just drop the bow, but you WILL need to adjust it while underway, If you set it to roost underway you wont leave the hole with it set like that, IE; Nozzel down to leave, then Nozzel up while underway to Trim/Roost. AND, If I am reading this correctly, the solid wire Morse cable that the controller uses for Engine control is not near strong enough to control the Nozzle.