WTB Header valve

Last Mohecian

Administrator
I am going to research this a little further.  After looking at a few other setups I may can run smaller lines and use one of those fuel shut offs.  I still kinda like that handle on that one valve I posted from ebay.
 

spd500

New member
You can run whatever you want , just get the hose sizing right . Besides -8 hose is alot cheaper than -12 , if it is what you need to do the job . You can get the fittings to connect the smaller lines to the valve pretty easy .
 

spd500

New member
The ones Rex Marine sells only have a 1/4" NPT female threads on them . And they are $119  :smile26:  I am sure any of the fuel cut off valves would flow more than enough to supply the headers  :smile17:

Here is a link to the specs on them :
http://www.rexmar.com/page228.html
 

spd500

New member
Catalog says 1/4" NPT for those . That comes out to a -4 AN fitting size according to the chart , so a -6AN would be a good size to use .
 

TintMan

New member
Last Mohican said:
TintMan said:
Well i can tell ya it works good! :smile17:

I figured they did.  Your boat budget is a little bigger than mine.  LOL.  Do you run a "T" valve after the manual valve or just the manual valve?
I have the manual valve mounted to the stringer right in front of my seat, then the lines go to my T valve. I close it completely before hammerin down...just got to remember to turn it back on!
 

spd500

New member
I found me a nice little chart to size all that AN stuff online , that way I dont have to keep asking what size is what . Here is a link :
http://www.gre6.com/ansize
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
spd500 said:
The ones Rex Marine sells only have a 1/4" NPT female threads on them . And they are $119  :smile26:  I am sure any of the fuel cut off valves would flow more than enough to supply the headers  :smile17:

Here is a link to the specs on them :
http://www.rexmar.com/page228.html

Wow.  Didn't realize it was that small.  I looked at the one on David's gray eliminator and I could swear it was bigger than 1/4 NPT.
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
TintMan said:
Last Mohican said:
TintMan said:
Well i can tell ya it works good! :smile17:

I figured they did.  Your boat budget is a little bigger than mine.  LOL.  Do you run a "T" valve after the manual valve or just the manual valve?
I have the manual valve mounted to the stringer right in front of my seat, then the lines go to my T valve. I close it completely before hammerin down...just got to remember to turn it back on!

Cool.  Thanks Scott.

Looks like I can reduce the line size on mine.  That will be another project for after the back heals.
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
spd500 said:
I found me a nice little chart to size all that AN stuff online , that way I dont have to keep asking what size is what . Here is a link :
http://www.gre6.com/ansize

bookmarked.  ;)
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
Maybe this one.  The valve is over kill but the handle is nicer than those fuel valves and it is somewhat local.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-pressure-Hydraulic-Ball-Valve-2-way-1-4-NPT-ports-7250-PSI-/300629157326?pt=Pneumatic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item45fee4e5ce

Available in 3/8 also.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-pressure-Hydraulic-Ball-Valve-2-way-3-8-NPT-ports-7250-PSI-/220900830342?pt=Pneumatic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item336eb72c86
 

spd500

New member
I guess the question is how you are going to mount it . The square ones like what Tintman is running are easier to mount through a piece of angle , kinda like a rail kit , or through a dash or body panel in a car .
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
spd500 said:
I guess the question is how you are going to mount it . The square ones like what Tintman is running are easier to mount through a piece of angle , kinda like a rail kit , or through a dash or body panel in a car .

True Dat.  I'll probably make a bracket out of a piece of aluminum angle.  Scratch those ones I just posted.  They are carbon steel.  Rust will be an issue.

I really want one like Tint's.  I just don't want to pay $120 for it.  I see them come up used on PB every now and then for $50 - $75. I just thought someone here might have one to sell.  I made an offer on that 3/4 one I posted.  I kinda like the handle, it's aluminum and for the right price I can use reducers with it.
 

spd500

New member
Look at the pic of this one that I posted yesterday , see how it shoud mount from the backside and be held in pace with the two little screws ? That is what I would be looking for . Almost any valve handle will fit a valve of about the same size , you can easily change out the handle if you want a bigger one .

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130605448450+
 

spd500

New member
This one was a little cheaper , and still mounts the same way .
$(KGrHqR,!g4E7QKhpT8BBO2D2zORDQ~~60_12.JPG
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
spd500 said:
This one was a little cheaper , and still mounts the same way .

I like that valve but I like the other handle better.  As long as the valve body is square I can drill a tap a couple of holes to mount it.  I can get this one to my door for $32 and I like the handle.  I'd just need to use reducers if I decide to use smaller lines.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390159856228&ssPageName=ADME:X:BOCOR:US:1123
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
Ugh.  That valve is BSPP not NPT.  I wonder if there is enough meat there to re-tap it?  Oh well.  Eventually something will turn up.

EDIT:  Screw it, I bought it.  We'll see what happens.
 
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