Thrust bearing leaking?

[Crusader]

Good point Matt. I did have some leakage from where the exhaust tubing meets the exhaust tips. I replaced the clamps and then double clamped it.....added safety measure. I don't think the leak is there. Like you recomended checking, I'll have to check the pressure lines. I deally, I'd like to replace all the hose lines...... I'll probably do that in the next few weeks.

 

[HellinnFrnt]

thats what winter was for !!!

 

[Crusader]

Update:

I tightened up the nuts 1/4 turn each and then the 1 drip per second turned into a steady stream. Yes, I did turn them in the correct direction (righty righty, lefty loosey). So I tightened them up an addition 1/2 turn and the drip rate returned to 1 drip per second.

Should I tighten them up more??

 

[duanehydro]

Suggest replacing packing glands.

 

[duanehydro]

I have some I can send ya.

 

[jdeaton]

Duane is far more knowledgeable in this area then I am, but if your not ready to tear into the pump,  You might go 1/2 a flat more, but 1 drip a second is pretty good, in my book.  Then watch it very closely

 

[Devilman]

I thought a drip per second (or so) was what you wanted. Drip per minute doesn't sound right, but I may have heard it wrong...

Before my pump was gone through, it was dripping at a pretty steady rate all the time. Guess I will have to see what its gonna do back there now that its all fresh.

 

[Crusader]

I have some I can send ya.

Are they difficult to replace? Will I have to take the U-joint off to get to them?

Duane is far more knowledgeable in this area then I am, but if your not ready to tear into the pump,  You might go 1/2 a flat more, but 1 drip a second is pretty good, in my book.  Then watch it very closely

I read from Kona that about 1 drip per minute is ideal....and that 1 drip per second might be a bit too much. I'll go ahead and tighten another 1/2 turn this weekend and see how that works.

 

[Crusader]

I thought a drip per second (or so) was what you wanted. Drip per minute doesn't sound right, but I may have heard it wrong...

Before my pump was gone through, it was dripping at a pretty steady rate all the time. Guess I will have to see what its gonna do back there now that its all fresh.

1 drip per second while the engine is turned off. Not sure how much is coming out while it's running.

 

[duanehydro]

I have some I can send ya.

Are they difficult to replace? Will I have to take the U-joint off to get to them?

Duane is far more knowledgeable in this area then I am, but if your not ready to tear into the pump,  You might go 1/2 a flat more, but 1 drip a second is pretty good, in my book.  Then watch it very closely

I read from Kona that about 1 drip per minute is ideal....and that 1 drip per second might be a bit too much. I'll go ahead and tighten another 1/2 turn this weekend and see how that works.

If they are brittle, tightening them considerably can scar the crap outta the shaft.

They are easy to change if you can get to them...remove the 2 3/8 bolts/nuts, pull out the collars, and use a pick or seal puller (threaded kind) to pull the old packings out 1 at a time.

 

[Crusader]

I hear ya.

When I first tightened then 1/4 turn, the nuts seemed very loose. After I tightened them again 1/2 turn, they started to feel a little tighter, but barely.

Okay, I'll take a look at what's involved and defintely make a go of it.

 

[KONA77]

ok,  gonna pop in here and paste info from Berkeley site.....

Q: How do I adjust the packing gland?
A: Packing gland adjustment:

The packing gland can be tightened so no water leaks past it, but if it is set up too tight it will overheat and the packing materials useful life will be shortened. If the gland is permitted to leak too much at low speeds the pump could suck air back into the suction piece causing poor acceleration and low speed thrust. So you can see that the gland adjustment is important to the operation of the jet drive. The correct adjustment should be about 1 drop of water per minute at idle leaking past the packing gland. Both of the adjustment nuts should be tightened or loosened equally as to avoid breaking the aluminum packing follower.

 

[jdeaton]

Wow Learned something new everyday, one drop per minute, got it.  Now I got to go to work replacing a starter. Good luck Cliff I leave you in far more knowledgeable hands than mine.

 

[Crusader]

Okay, time to wake this thread up again.

I think I'm in for a "Packing gland" replacement in the very near future. Yesterday I put the boat in and while still on the trailer, I took a look at the packing gland and saw a steady stream of water leaking in. I tightened the nuts evenly on both sides of the pump until the leaking stopped. The thing is, I did the same thing the last time I had it out.

How difficult is it to replace the seals? What steps are involved? Will I have to remove the pump? I have no clue.....

 

[Disturbed]

It's pretty simple.  Take the retainer off and dig the old packings out with a pick or, whatever you have that will get them out.  Once you get the new packings, it'll be easier to see what your up against.  When I rebuilt my pump, I changed it over to a lip seal.  If you want to do that, you'll have to disassemble the pump.  I hope this helps.

 

[Crusader]

Thanks Disturbed.

Are the seals split so they can fit over the shaft? I guess you're right, I have to see them to know what it going on. In the part breakdown diagram, it appears the seals are one complete ring.

 

[Devilman]

I may be mistaken, but I thought those packing seals had a "split" in them.... and when you put them in there you had to orient them to where the splits were all in different positions... you didn't want them lined up, so to say...

Not 100%, but sure seems like thats what I read around here though.

 

[Disturbed]

They're split. 

 

[Crusader]

Gotcha, no wonder everyone says it's so easy. That's the only way I could think of where it would be easy.

Thanks bro

 

[duanehydro]

http://www.texashotboats.com/forums/index.php?topic=9514.msg116024#msg116024

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