Stringer mounted alternator???

[SimplyOrange]

on my day cruiser i dont think i can fit the alternator on the top of the motor and be able to have the hatch, so my only option is the left side bottom of the motor, to mount it there would take a good bit of fab work making brackets and such and its going to be difficult to get the right angle for it to tension the belt., while at orielys today i bought a bracket that i planned to cut uop and weld on to make it work, well thats easier said then done.... but i did realize i could use the 2 bolt holes in it and mount it to the stringer , then run a turnbuckle to the cylinder head and itll tighten up perfect and be in the perfect spot.

is there any reason i should not do this? the motor is solid mounted into the boat. i know it may be a stupid question but i cant find a reason not to.

 

[Becket]

on my day cruiser i dont think i can fit the alternator on the top of the motor and be able to have the hatch, so my only option is the left side bottom of the motor, to mount it there would take a good bit of fab work making brackets and such and its going to be difficult to get the right angle for it to tension the belt., while at orielys today i bought a bracket that i planned to cut uop and weld on to make it work, well thats easier said then done.... but i did realize i could use the 2 bolt holes in it and mount it to the stringer , then run a turnbuckle to the cylinder head and itll tighten up perfect and be in the perfect spot.

is there any reason i should not do this? the motor is solid mounted into the boat. i know it may be a stupid question but i cant find a reason not to.

If your sure there are no ISO mounts then there should be no problem mounting it on the Rail.

 

[CorDog009]

I got a setup from Duane at HTP that mounts the alt. on the pass. side head, pretty much ends up centered in the head off to the side a bit. Clearance shouldn't be an issue with that setup.

 

[SimplyOrange]

the clearance problem is because my water cooled logs are right there, if mine was sitting where yours is it would be sticking out about 1" past the crank pulley because of the fittings and hoses on the front of the manifolds.looking at the pic it either has to fit low and to the right of the crank pulley, or really far right on the other side of the logs. my rails are basically right under the manifolds.ill try to see if it would work with the L style bracket.

 

[SimplyOrange]

i slept on it and hit it this morning with a fresh set of eyes and ended up with this.

 

[Last Mohecian]

Looks pretty good.  Only thing I might do is change that turn buckle to a nice billet piece down the road just for looks.

 

[SimplyOrange]

its under a cowl, as long as it works and doesnt have duct tape on it then im fine with it.i picked up the idea off of a rat rod forum.

 

[Crusader]

That looks like a great idea!!!

 

[CorDog009]

Looks good  clap.gif

 

[77Jet Star]

its under a cowl, as long as it works and doesnt have duct tape on it then im fine with it.i picked up the idea off of a rat rod forum.

What wrong with duct tape  :smile19:

 

[SimplyOrange]

its under a cowl, as long as it works and doesnt have duct tape on it then im fine with it.i picked up the idea off of a rat rod forum.

What wrong with duct tape  :smile19:

if i designed it with duct tape already, i wouldnt have a backup plan :wink:

 

[Becket]

For future reference, the Alt. on a 416 Cat Backhoe is really small in size and packs a punch (80 Amp. min.) would work very well in tight area.  :smile30:

 

[SimplyOrange]

where were you last week??  :smile29:

i just checked it out, the mounting holes are still the same distance apart so its all good, i got the marine 110amp to my door for $63, its just a little heavier, i should be able to buy a 34" belt today and be done with the alternator.then i just have to build a battery tray and the electrical is done.

 

[Becket]

where were you last week??  :smile29:

i just checked it out, the mounting holes are still the same distance apart so its all good, i got the marine 110amp to my door for $63, its just a little heavier, i should be able to buy a 34" belt today and be done with the alternator.then i just have to build a battery tray and the electrical is done.

I like what you did, looks good man! As for where I was last week..........Brain dead in Korea! I was the first person to respond to your Question and it never crossed my mind to mention the Cat Alt. oh well, you have a cowling so I think the powers that be would frown upon it anyhow cause it aint Marine. Good job!  clap.gif

 

[SimplyOrange]

where were you last week??  :smile29:

i just checked it out, the mounting holes are still the same distance apart so its all good, i got the marine 110amp to my door for $63, its just a little heavier, i should be able to buy a 34" belt today and be done with the alternator.then i just have to build a battery tray and the electrical is done.

I like what you did, looks good man! As for where I was last week..........Brain dead in Korea! I was the first person to respond to your Question and it never crossed my mind to mention the Cat Alt. oh well, you have a cowling so I think the powers that be would frown upon it anyhow cause it aint Marine. Good job!  clap.gif

i was just messin with you, i found the 10SL marine alternator and bought it last week, so i kinda had to work with what i had,i wanted that one so i could run it to a dash mounted indicator bulb and the ignition to start charging as soon as the engine cranks up instead of after 1800 rpms.

i didnt realize the manifold clearance issue until i tried to fit it up.the alternator diameter wasnt really the problem as much as the mounting bracket hitting everything when i tried to put it in a position where it would tension.even now when its fully tensioned its only about 1/2" away from the stringer. the way it is i ended up with 1" of tension play on just the turnbuckle, if i unbolt the turnbuckle and put the belt on then rebolt it on and tighten it i get about 1 3/4" of adjustment, its about as good as it can get being in that location.

also the middle part of the turnbucle is billet, i could polish that and the plate and make it look chrome if i cared that much, i probably will when i make one for the shovel.

 

[jimsplace]

where were you last week??  :smile29:

i just checked it out, the mounting holes are still the same distance apart so its all good, i got the marine 110amp to my door for $63, its just a little heavier, i should be able to buy a 34" belt today and be done with the alternator.then i just have to build a battery tray and the electrical is done.

I like what you did, looks good man! As for where I was last week..........Brain dead in Korea! I was the first person to respond to your Question and it never crossed my mind to mention the Cat Alt. oh well, you have a cowling so I think the powers that be would frown upon it anyhow cause it aint Marine. Good job!  clap.gif

i was just messin with you, i found the 10SL marine alternator and bought it last week, so i kinda had to work with what i had,i wanted that one so i could run it to a dash mounted indicator bulb and the ignition to start charging as soon as the engine cranks up instead of after 1800 rpms.

i didnt realize the manifold clearance issue until i tried to fit it up.the alternator diameter wasnt really the problem as much as the mounting bracket hitting everything when i tried to put it in a position where it would tension.even now when its fully tensioned its only about 1/2" away from the stringer. the way it is i ended up with 1" of tension play on just the turnbuckle, if i unbolt the turnbuckle and put the belt on then rebolt it on and tighten it i get about 1 3/4" of adjustment, its about as good as it can get being in that location.

also the middle part of the turnbucle is billet, i could polish that and the plate and make it look chrome if i cared that much, i probably will when i make one for the shovel.

There is nothing wrong with removing the bolt to get the belt on and having just enough ability to tension the belt.  I have been doing mine that way for 10 years.  If it is aligned properly, just tension the belt initally, run it for the week-end and re-tension the belt.  You shouldn't have to touch it again for several years.  Besides that, it looks better.  If it is a billet tension bar, the slot is only 3 inches long and not ten inches.

 

[SimplyOrange]

i put the belt on yesterday, the position is perfect for adjustment but the aluminum is flexing a little, im either goin to make a bracked to bolt to the side of the block to pull it back, reinforce the aluminum witha  steel piece, or make the whole thing again out of stainless. ill fix it this weekend when i have time to sit down and deal with it.