Project X

spd500

spd500

New member
I'm on my way to the shop to finish the woodgrain.  If anyone is out and about and feels like stopping in I should be there all day.
 
Last Mohecian

Last Mohecian

Administrator
spd500 said:
That's actually really close to what I did, I pretty much tried to copy the pic you posted.  I didn't put the tape on the ends though,  but that sounds like a good idea. I put a pretty good bend in the blade though,  so the ends of the blade were not a problem.  I tried to only shave the clear coat and not get into the color at all. The clear that I was working on had about 20 hours to cure before touching it.  I didn't try to get it all smooth, just shaved some of the higher ridges.  All in all,  it went well and I feel like I learned something worthwhile.  Thanks for the tips on it.
Click to expand...

Could you use a Callus Shaver?  That is exactly what they are.  A bent razor blade.

http://www.walgreens.com/store/c/tweezerman-ltd-safety-slide-callus-shaver/rasp/ID=prod3460873-product

http://www.sallybeauty.com/Callus-Shaver/SBS-177400,default,pd.html
 
C

customtouch

Active member
I don't think you could use something like that for shaving paint edges. The process requires very precise placement of the blade curve on the paint edge using very light pressure and you have a very narrow margin for error. I am guessing it would be hard to be that accurate with something designed like that. It is possible that it might work for taking out runs though. Someone makes a tool similar to that for run removal but I have never used one. I have my own method for removing runs and it works well for me so I never saw the need to try it.
 
spd500

spd500

New member
I will go in later and edit my post to tell what each step was , and why . But it's mainly self explanatory .
 
spd500

spd500

New member
Thanks man,  it really looks killer in person. The pics don't even come close to showing how good it looks. My test panel looked great in the shop, but ten times better in the sun,  I can't wait to see the boat itself out in the sun, its going to be awesome.
 
Last Mohecian

Last Mohecian

Administrator
HellinnFrnt said:
thats seriously something I'd like on a boat or wagon  clap.gif
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LOL.  The Family Truckster.  :smile17:

Gary%20Schneider%20Family%20Truckster%2003.jpg
 
SimplyOrange

SimplyOrange

New member
im super impressed! you have me wanting to get on a DA and get to work on mine.

clap.gif

im ready to see it untaped and out in the sun though.
 
spd500

spd500

New member
It will be awhile still before its untapped and out in the sun. Everything under the paper is still in primer. I need to wet sand the woodgrain part and then tape it up,  then resand the parts that will be blue.  When I spray the blue I will take the tape off the woodgrain sections and clear the whole boat.  Then wet sand it all again and hopefully take the boat to a paint Booth for the final clear.
 
SimplyOrange

SimplyOrange

New member
oh ok, for some reason i though you already had all of the other paint done and after the wood you just had to sand and reclear everything.
 
spd500

spd500

New member
No , I decided to do the woodgrain first , then paint the blue . I actually still need to put a woodgrain dash panel before I will be doing the blue . I was going to do the tutorial that I promised Patch I would do while graining the dash , it's a small panel so a tutorial should be easier to follow than trying to do it on the entire wood deck . I will probably do the dash and wet sand the deck tomarrow , then get it taped and sanded during the week . Hopefully I will get the blue on it by the end of next weekend . I have a few calls out on a paint booth to use for the final clear , hopefully something will be available .
 
spd500

spd500

New member
I finally found the last part that I needed to be able to build the exhaust , the flanges . To get a set of flanges machined was going to cost upwards of $550 for CNC machined stainless flanges . I found a set for $120 after countless hours of searching online for someone who makes them . $120 with free shipping is a great deal for 1/2" thick stainless flanges .  jump.gif

http://www.extremeperformance1.com/flanges-c-80/chevy-ls-stainless-steel-header-flange-1-2-for-ls1-3-ls6-ls7-p-120
 
SimplyOrange

SimplyOrange

New member
spd500 said:
I finally found the last part that I needed to be able to build the exhaust , the flanges . To get a set of flanges machined was going to cost upwards of $550 for CNC machined stainless flanges . I found a set for $120 after countless hours of searching online for someone who makes them . $120 with free shipping is a great deal for 1/2" thick stainless flanges .  jump.gif

http://www.extremeperformance1.com/flanges-c-80/chevy-ls-stainless-steel-header-flange-1-2-for-ls1-3-ls6-ls7-p-120
Click to expand...

whats the plan? cut flanges off of bbc headers and just swap flanges?
 
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