Project X

B

blazeracer

New member
That looks pretty damn good man. How does it fit into the grand scheme for the motor? You gonna do the block in the same color then leave the heads and valve covers natural. Shoot some of that blue on the coils and brackets and it will look shit hot!
 
spd500

spd500

New member
Almost forgot  crazy.gif Valve covers are already done too  :smile30:
The stock valve covers will have the coil packs mounted onto them , then a set of polished stainless fabricated BBC covers will go over them to hide the coils and wiring  :smile17:

 
spd500

spd500

New member
Kinda like this  :smile17:

largeretroCoilCoverExample.jpg
 
spd500

spd500

New member
blazeracer said:
That looks pretty damn good man. How does it fit into the grand scheme for the motor? You gonna do the block in the same color then leave the heads and valve covers natural. Shoot some of that blue on the coils and brackets and it will look s*** hot!
Click to expand...

The block will be blue , not sure about the timing cover yet . The motor plates will be polished , and the exhaust will be polished stainless . With the polished stainless BBC valve covers over the coil packs .
 
spd500

spd500

New member
Ok , so getting back to the boat  :smile14: We have woodgrain  jump.gif jump.gif jump.gif

I got the first sections of the woodgrain laid out and they look really great , I will tape and shoot the rest of the wood deck either tomarrow or Sunday .

clickable pics:








 
spd500

spd500

New member
Thanks man . I have been really lucky to have alot of great advice from several members here who know alot more than me about this stuff . Customtouch has been kind enough to spend alot of time on the phone with me going over different parts of the plan on the paint work , as well as posting advice here in the project thread . I also have a few friends that have helped out and given me advice off the forums . So , if it looks awesome it's because I had plenty of good advice , if it looks like crap it's not because no one told me the right way to do it . I can't wait to see what it will look like finished .
 
Last Mohecian

Last Mohecian

Administrator
Looks great.  How about a closer pic so we can see the detail.  Can't wait to see this one finished.  She should be a show stopper.
 
spd500

spd500

New member
customtouch said:
Looking Good!  :smile17:
Click to expand...

Thanks man . I am half tempted to give your razor trick a try on the tape lines on this part , but really don't want to screw up the paint . It is finally starting to come together , and I would rather buy an extra gallon of clear than screw it up .
 
spd500

spd500

New member
Ok , so I decided to give the razor trick a try . It is not as bad as it sounds , the first two inches are the scary part . I only trimmed the clear though , so there is still some of the ridge . I went around the boat and hit the spots that seemed like they had more of a ridge , and just trimmed those areas down a little . It really does seem like a cool trick , if anyone is painting thier boat they should give it a try .
 
C

customtouch

Active member
Here are a few tips to help.

1  Put a "very slight" bend in the blade so you can shave in the middle of it (actually a hair off to one side or the other) without touching the corners of the blade to the paint.

2  If you hold the blade between your thumb and middle finger, when you get the correct angle for the blade you can use the index finger to apply just enough pressure to keep it in place and from digging in too deep. It is all about getting the right angle of the blade and sliding smoothly. The paint will also have to be completely dry or it will have a tendency to gouge it.

3  I also recommend wrapping a small amount of 1/8' fineline tape around the corners of the blade as insurance policy against them digging in and scratching the paint.

4  If you are trying to shave in a concave area, you can increase the bend in the blade to get in to it, but this is where it REALLY starts getting tricky.

5  PRACTICE...PRACTICE...PRACTICE
 
spd500

spd500

New member
That's actually really close to what I did, I pretty much tried to copy the pic you posted.  I didn't put the tape on the ends though,  but that sounds like a good idea. I put a pretty good bend in the blade though,  so the ends of the blade were not a problem.  I tried to only shave the clear coat and not get into the color at all. The clear that I was working on had about 20 hours to cure before touching it.  I didn't try to get it all smooth, just shaved some of the higher ridges.  All in all,  it went well and I feel like I learned something worthwhile.  Thanks for the tips on it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top