Last Mohecian
Administrator
The T valve I have has an SAE flair inlet and AN flare out to he headers. Is this typical? Any suggestions on getting from the 45* SAE flare to a hose barb?
Header T- valve
- Thread starter Last Mohecian
- Start date
duanehydro
Active member
Most auto parts stores sell the female hose barbs with a 45* flare...if not I have a few....for 1/2 hose I can send ya....
Last Mohecian
Administrator
Duanehydro said:
Thanks D. I'll check NAPA tomorrow. I just need one. Eventually I am going to put AN hose everywhere but I want to plumb it first with heater hose and make sure everything is where I want it.
duanehydro
Active member
I think this is what you are talking about...
I can get a napa part # for ya in the morning when I get to work (napa), it'll be brass but wth...
I can get a napa part # for ya in the morning when I get to work (napa), it'll be brass but wth...
Last Mohecian
Administrator
That looks right tome as long its that is a 45* female.
duanehydro
Active member
yup 45 instead of 37
Last Mohecian
Administrator
Brass is fine. It's going to be hidden in the bilge anyway. If you get a chance to look up that part number post it up and I'll call NAPA before I go tomorrow.
Thx, Matt
Thx, Matt
duanehydro
Active member
yes, pretty much.jimsplace said:
Last Mohecian
Administrator
Plumbing and home improvement stores have what is needed to run gas lines. That is typically the only place flair fitting are used by a plumber. There is no need to have a female flair to a hose barb fitting when running gas so they did not have the piece I needed. I could make it work with pieces from Lowe's but it was going to take 3 separate pieces to get from a 45* flair to a hose barb instead of 1.
Last Mohecian
Administrator
Got it all sorted out today. Only thing left is a thru hull fitting for the water dump. Found everything I needed at Hose Fast. I ended up using some press lock AN fittings and black hose from the T to the headers. I used a press lock 45* brass fitting from the T to the engine. These headers were obviously for a V-Drive. The water line connection is at the back of the boat not the front. Nothing a couple of 180* AN fittings didn't fix.
HellinnFrnt
New member
I got a silver aluminum 3/4 dump you can have new or 5/8 ... what ever Tom sells
Last Mohecian
Administrator
Thanks for the offer Helln. I think I am going to order some new anodized ones from Rex Marine. I need a 5/8 for the motor dump and a 3/4 for the bilge. The bilge I just want to replace the plastic one I have now with one that looks better.
My plan is to dump the motor out the side so I can look back and verify water flow from the drivers seat. Anyone see a problem with that?
My plan is to dump the motor out the side so I can look back and verify water flow from the drivers seat. Anyone see a problem with that?
