blazeracer
New member
FormulaZR said:
Ya thought a day or two too long.. Mine shipped from New Jersey yesterday. Will be here Monday. Not like it would be hard to sell though, they never come up for sale used so it'll pull a premium.
Hardin Marine Cheyenne
- Thread starter blazeracer
- Start date
Ya thought a day or two too long.. Mine shipped from New Jersey yesterday. Will be here Monday. Not like it would be hard to sell though, they never come up for sale used so it'll pull a premium.
blazeracer
New member
After sitting in it the way it WAS, there was no possibly way Edward would have been able to drive it and it barely fit me. Put the seats back in the orginal location and that's way too close. Soo, loose mounted the seats to find the sweet spot. Before I put em back in, gotta fill all the holes, about 30 total, with wooden dowels glassed in. Just touch them with grey paint tomorrow and put the interior back together.
Polished out the battery hold down and got it back in also.
Polished out the battery hold down and got it back in also.
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blazeracer
New member
The intake, valley cover, and MSD box arrived yesterday. Some people talk about connecting the rear two water ports on the heads to eliminate hot spots. I'll do ya one better.
Stumbled across this little gem about a year ago and shelved it. It connects all four ports together. Got the valley cover polished out, but still gotta pull it back off and install a PCV with baffle on the underside.
A shot of one of them sweet CNC'd intake ports on the AFR heads.
Intake with Demon carb.
Worked most of the day sanding the scoop smooth, then made a custom round tray for it.
Stumbled across this little gem about a year ago and shelved it. It connects all four ports together. Got the valley cover polished out, but still gotta pull it back off and install a PCV with baffle on the underside.
A shot of one of them sweet CNC'd intake ports on the AFR heads.
Intake with Demon carb.
Worked most of the day sanding the scoop smooth, then made a custom round tray for it.
Michael Swindoll
New member
Looks good clap.gif
blazeracer
New member
Added a PCV to the valley cover today, which isn't all that easy. Have to add a baffle to the bottom side of the cover. Went to BA Industrial and got all stainless allen fasteners for the top end also. Purdy.....
Got an email from Tom at JBP, apparently my LS1 motor plates are DONE! jump.gif
Got an email from Tom at JBP, apparently my LS1 motor plates are DONE! jump.gif
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Last Mohecian
Administrator
Don't forget the gaskets on that water bypass. 
blazeracer
New member
Got the gaskets in there.. haha..
Ok, been wondering how the hell I was going to fix this hot foot. It's a stinger mounted hot foot and while it's great for a v-hull or a winger it absolutely SUCKS on a tunnel hull. The top third of the pedal is behind the gauges. To go full throttle you gotta jam your shin into the dash. Thanks to Carver and his aluminum welder we reconfuged the bracket to a floor mount. Now I'll have somewhere to mount the diverter control and then carpet it to make it nice and pretty. Maria and Edward can both reach the pedal now too.
Ok, been wondering how the hell I was going to fix this hot foot. It's a stinger mounted hot foot and while it's great for a v-hull or a winger it absolutely SUCKS on a tunnel hull. The top third of the pedal is behind the gauges. To go full throttle you gotta jam your shin into the dash. Thanks to Carver and his aluminum welder we reconfuged the bracket to a floor mount. Now I'll have somewhere to mount the diverter control and then carpet it to make it nice and pretty. Maria and Edward can both reach the pedal now too.
blazeracer
New member
blazeracer
New member
Grind is such a harsh word... scuff it with a flapper wheel.
ChryslerJet
New member
A scuff should be all he needs. Will be a shame to mess up all that pretty gelcoat though.blazeracer said:
Captin Hazlewood
New member
I have to admit I was thinking the same thing. Would be easier to clean and less weight to haul around as well. Something else to consider is if the bilge ever gets a "little extra water" in it it will wash any oil up on the carpet. think.gif
Last Mohecian
Administrator
Personally I would make that floor removable. It would be easy to glass in a little bulk head at the front and then use aluminum angle to attach the floor at the front and the rear with stainless hardware. The rear bulkhead is already there. Would look nice and clean and you could pull it out to inspect underneath.
ChryslerJet
New member
Last Mohican said:
I am with Matt on this.
blazeracer
New member
Ok, for starters the inside is just painted, not gelcoat. Plus if you look at it close it's got chips all over it. The stringers are dowel'ed up swiss cheese from moving sh!t around over the years with two different shades of grey paint camouflaged by the black splatter. If the interior as it is now was gel or flow coat, I'd leave it. But it's not. It kinda looks like sh!t up close. Was actually thinking of repainting the entire engine bay to clean it up and make it nice.
The floor is gonna be about an inch and a half above the keel at the back, maybe half an inch in the front keeping it level in relation to the tunnels but still below them. There will be room for excess water to move freely and exit freely also with out touching the actual floor. I'm gonna make a second bulkhead in the back to create a storage space under the back seat for anchors and ropes since the seat bottom already has a hole cut in it for where the battery used to be.
Maria want's a nice comfy looking smooth floor like Ricky and Carver both have on theirs. Removable might be good too though. Carpet the tunnels, stringers and bulkheads separate. If it ends up being loose and rattling we can always glass it in later. I think that skinny little floor maybe weighs about 8 lbs at most. With carpet and glue probably not adding more than 40 lbs to make it look and feel real nice.
The floor is gonna be about an inch and a half above the keel at the back, maybe half an inch in the front keeping it level in relation to the tunnels but still below them. There will be room for excess water to move freely and exit freely also with out touching the actual floor. I'm gonna make a second bulkhead in the back to create a storage space under the back seat for anchors and ropes since the seat bottom already has a hole cut in it for where the battery used to be.
Maria want's a nice comfy looking smooth floor like Ricky and Carver both have on theirs. Removable might be good too though. Carpet the tunnels, stringers and bulkheads separate. If it ends up being loose and rattling we can always glass it in later. I think that skinny little floor maybe weighs about 8 lbs at most. With carpet and glue probably not adding more than 40 lbs to make it look and feel real nice.
blazeracer
New member
Here's the back seat how I got it, with the battery under it. Relocated the battery to the back of the passenger tunnel and now have an open space I can make something out of. Weighed everything going into this little endeavor.
Got out the scale and stacked the ply, carpet, carpet glue, resin and bolts all together and they wieghed in a 45 lbs. And that's ALL the carpet, a full gallon of glue and a full gallon of resin. Prolly be a few pounds of left over material.
Wouldn't hurt to lose that 40 pounds off my gut either!!!
Got out the scale and stacked the ply, carpet, carpet glue, resin and bolts all together and they wieghed in a 45 lbs. And that's ALL the carpet, a full gallon of glue and a full gallon of resin. Prolly be a few pounds of left over material.
Wouldn't hurt to lose that 40 pounds off my gut either!!!
Knotty Girl
New member
blazeracer said:
330 LBS Wow that is a lot just for a floor. think.gif
