Hardin Marine Cheyenne

B

blazeracer

New member
Check this out. The entire side of the block has a big ole crack down it. In one spot in particular, there has been rusty water coming out. Now I gotta wonder how long that crack has been there..... Also, and I have no reasonable explanation for this.. A small piece of the main webbing is pushed out under cylinder 3, opposite side of the rest of the damage. No piston contact, just a small spot pushed out.
 
D

Disturbed

Active member
Have you removed the pistons yet?  A side picture of the top of the ring land will tell the tale.  Whether the cracks came first or the detonation did, the world may never know.  (If that area in the red box is detonation.)  I'm not gonna sit here and say that is detonation without a better picture or seeing it in person. 

I melted my fair share of SBC piston back in the late 80s with a little street supercharger on a 10:1 engine.  Ran like a scalded dog as long as it had race gas in it.  Just about every time I put some super unleaded with the magical '104 Octane Boost', I was tearing it down and replacing a couple of pistons.  That little 350 would've lasted a lot longer with less boost.  It just wouldn't have been nearly as fun!  And, educational! 

:smile16:

Good luck my friend! 
 
Patchman

Patchman

Administrator
Staff member
Yes sir! I've seen so many pistons with those scars it aint funny. People don't hear that ping, or refuse to buy good enough fuel to avoid it. With the exhaust on a jet, it probably would be hard to hear any detonation with the wind going across you ears at 100 mph and two hair dryers talking too you. Timing and air/fuel mixture are your two most important friends right now. think.gif Just thinking out loud! Que the jackals! :smile17:
 
Knotty Girl

Knotty Girl

New member
Rusty in a crack can be immediate.  If the water was rusty it will go in the crack and make you think it has been there a long time.
 
B

blazeracer

New member
Knotty said:
Rusty in a crack can be immediate.  If the water was rusty it will go in the crack and make you think it has been there a long time.
Click to expand...

It just had fresh lake water running through it ten days ago. The boat never sat for more than a week without getting run again and again. In fact, the Sunday before last the gas tank and tunnel on that side had water spray all over them. I would have thought nothing of it when I had wet headers on it, but the exhuast is dry now. Shouldn't have been no water over there..

All 8 pistons have skirts in perfect condition. Upper and lower rod bearings are in perfect condition. All spark plugs are in perfect condition.

Forgot to attach pics earlier.

1st, rust dripping
2nd, pushed out chunk at the bottom of cylinder 3
3rd, crank almost the entire length of the block. Yellow circle is pic 1.
 
B

blazeracer

New member
DISTURBED said:
Have you removed the pistons yet?  A side picture of the top of the ring land will tell the tale.  Whether the cracks came first or the detonation did, the world may never know.  (If that area in the red box is detonation.)  I'm not gonna sit here and say that is detonation without a better picture or seeing it in person. 

I melted my fair share of SBC piston back in the late 80s with a little street supercharger on a 10:1 engine.  Ran like a scalded dog as long as it had race gas in it.  Just about every time I put some super unleaded with the magical '104 Octane Boost', I was tearing it down and replacing a couple of pistons.  That little 350 would've lasted a lot longer with less boost.  It just wouldn't have been nearly as fun!  And, educational! 

:smile16:

Good luck my friend!
Click to expand...

Running 10.24:1 compression on E85, equivalent of 105 octane. The last time I looked at the boost gauge was 5,000 rpm and it read 6psi. And yeah, the fuel was tested right at 85% alcohol. We'll get it figured out.
 
Patchman

Patchman

Administrator
Staff member
Pic #2 is telling you what you need to know. That sleeve blew out! What causes that? :smile30:
 
D

Disturbed

Active member
I just had a thought. You said this was an aluminum block correct?  What in the water jacket would rust?  I'm not familiar with the LS engine.
 
Patchman

Patchman

Administrator
Staff member
DISTURBED said:
I just had a thought. You said this was an aluminum block correct?  What in the water jacket would rust?  I'm not familiar with the LS engine.
Click to expand...
The rust has to be from the sleeves. But why is it pushed up through cracks in the block? Unless it was a closed cooling system full of rusty water when the crack occurred! Like it was a junkyard motor that froze with just water in it. think.gif
 
B

blazeracer

New member
Patchman said:
Pic #2 is telling you what you need to know. That sleeve blew out! What causes that? :smile30:
Click to expand...

Pic 2 is the webbing under the sleeve. All the sleeves on that side are fine. The broken sleeves are on the other side of the motor..

It's an aluminim block that has iron sleeves in it. Everytime I pull it out of the lake, if the water in the block drops low enough to expose the iron to air, it'll flash rust fairly quick. This motor's been in my boat for two years now. It did spin a bearing at Tawakoni this past summer. I just had the crank turned and put it back together.

Compression tool from Summit gave me 10.24:1
 
FL350

FL350

Administrator
This motor's been in my boat for two years now.

Didn't you buy this boat back in the spring 2014?? think.gif
 
B

blazeracer

New member
Here we go again. It's a 2004 iron 5.3 punched out to a 5.7 with forged pistons and rods. It's got ARP studs top and bottom. GM Performance LS7 lifters, Manley 4340 pushrods, and Comp trunions on the rockers. Put the AFR upgrade spring kit in the heads so I should be able to safely spin it to 7,200 at will. Cam's a 24x/24x with .600/.610 on a 114 that will support that kind of RPM, especially with the turbos, and held in place with an SLP double roller timing set.

Spent most of today with a polisher working on the valve covers and heads to make em all purdy. She's ready to go back in.

 
J

jimsplace

Active member
blazeracer said:
Here we go again. It's a 2004 iron 5.3 punched out to a 5.7 with forged pistons and rods. It's got ARP studs top and bottom. GM Performance LS7 lifters, Manley 4340 pushrods, and Comp trunions on the rockers. Put the AFR upgrade spring kit in the heads so I should be able to safely spin it to 7,200 at will. Cam's a 24x/24x with .600/.610 on a 114 that will support that kind of RPM, especially with the turbos, and held in place with an SLP double roller timing set.

Spent most of today with a polisher working on the valve covers and heads to make em all purdy. She's ready to go back in.
Click to expand...

Glad to see someone doing something.
It's looking good, keep up the good work and pictures.
    clap.gif
 
C

Chevy2184

New member
That things gonna be a beast with those hair dryers hanging on it! 👍🏻


Sent from my shop setting in my boat making motor noises
 
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