Crusader Project

sturat

New member
Crusader said:
Got a question. Last night I finished removing all the stringers and now the boat is so light, I can literally lift the back of the boat off the trailer.

My question is this, am I able to safely trailer the boat to my storage and back?

I won't be fabricating new stringers until the end of next week and I cannot keep the boat in my driveway......as I'll be out of town next week and my HOA will throw a hissy fit.
If it was me I would let them send me a letter and be done with it. I would not want to trailer it without them.
I would also make sure that when i put the new ones in i would have the boat of the trailer to make sure the bottom stays true.
If you put them in on the trailer you can/will put any hook that the trailker has into the bottom of the boat..
 

spd500

New member
I agree with everyone else on this . I would not put the stringers in with the boat on the trailer . I am actually going to modify my boat stand so the supports are longer and the transom will sit on the supports instead of the bottom of the boat sitting on them , and they will go all the way to the front of the boat . The way the cart is right now the support beams are only about 10 feet long and the boat that just came off of it stuck out behind the cart supports about 2-3 feet .  I was fine with that for painting the Kona , but it had stringers to hold the bottom straight . If you take the stringers out and put it on the same cart it will force a huge hook into the bottom , and when you put the stringers in with a hook it will become permanant and really effect the performance of the boat .
 

Crusader

Moderator
Not an option for putting it in my garage because though it's a double garage, it has two single doors and there's no way my trailer would fit in it because the wheelbase is wider than the door openings. Additionally my garage is only 18 feet deep......and the boat is 21' deep. I guess I could knock a hole in the wall but I'm not sure Jacob would enjoy a Berkely jet pump nozzle in his room. Lol.

Also it's not so light that I could flip the boat.....I can only left the back corner......whereas I couldn't do that before.

The reason I asked the question was because I was afraid of the sides flexing while in transit..... the bottom of the hull has four bunks on the trailer that run the length of the boat and holding it in place okay, IMO. I was thinking that to help reduce the amount that the sides flex, I could tie a strap around the hull in a few locations which will reduce the flexing. Do ya think that will help?

Another reason I need to move the boat is two fold, it's going to rain next week and also I'll be out of town for four days for work...... When the boat sits in my driveway, it sits nose down due to the slope of my driveway.....even with the trailer tongue jacked all the way up. 

 

sturat

New member
Use a cinder block under the tongue wheel to get the bow higher.. I would not tow it with out the stringers in it. The boat was designed to have them and they tie the structural integrity of the hull together.

what ever you do the boat MUST come off the trailer for the stringer repair.
 

ChryslerJet

New member
Just a thought but can you get it into the back yard? out of sight out of mind for the HOA.  Take down a small section of fence if you have to you could make it a removeable section if you want to.
 

Crusader

Moderator
Great ideas guys, but I'm afraid they will not work.....I've spent the entire night last night looking, measuring, scheming, visualizing etc....to figure out what I can do which is the Genisis to my question.

There's no way I can take the fence down between my home and the neighbors....the homes are that close. The garage isn't an option....not even enough room in there to move it caddy corner.
 

Crusader

Moderator
Ya....on top of that it's a McKinney code violation too....I know this because I was ticketed last August for having the boat in my driveway....lol.

I Can't win for loosing on this one.  crazy.gif
 

John

New member
ok get straps and some boards to brace in gunnel to gunnel,id remove the pump so theres no undue weight on the transom, jets are thin transomed, put a sack of dog food or some thing for weight, turn the hazards on cross your fingers and drive slow. 
 

blazeracer

New member
Crusader said:
Ya....on top of that it's a McKinney code violation too....I know this because I was ticketed last August for having the boat in my driveway....lol.

I Can't win for loosing on this one.  crazy.gif

I would move if I couldn't keep a boat or two in my driveway. How about finding a nice big two car garage size storage unit close your house you can rent for a month and keep it close to the house, indoors, and level till it's done. You'll save the month's rent in gas money and time spent.

Trust mini storage in McKinney has a 15x20 that may work.
 

spd500

New member
Did you ever do an research on the composite stringers,  or just decided to go with wood?  Why didn't you go with composite? I am thinking about composite materials for the TX to replace everything that is wood in the boat and wondered what you found out.
 

Crusader

Moderator
spd500 said:
Did you ever do an research on the composite stringers,  or just decided to go with wood?  Why didn't you go with composite? I am thinking about composite materials for the TX to replace everything that is wood in the boat and wondered what you found out.

Not going to go with composite stringers.....I'm using Douglas Fir for the stringers and glassing them in. I did research the composites....and they actually install the stringers for you.....it's a complicated process......and I don't have time for that.
 

Crusader

Moderator
Progress has been made. We managed to get the stringers cut. There was a lot more to it than I originally thought because of the different angles that are involved. None the less, after six hours of measuring twice and cutting once, we managed to get it done.

4d66c964.jpg
 

Crusader

Moderator
All the stringers at cut and fitted. The next step is to apply resin on the bottoms of all the wood before glassing them all into the boat. I'm going to initially adhere them in with PL adhesive. This will serve three functions; to seal the wood in place, fill the gaps between the wood and fiberglass hull, and evenly distribute the hull forces on the stringers which will help eliminate parts of the hull receiving more pressure from waves than the other parts of the hull.

Hope that makes sense.

558cec18.jpg


0cc28226.jpg


Here's the PL adhesive I'm using as a gap filler/sealer

d60a59ae.jpg


 

Crusader

Moderator
Pulled the stringers out and coated the underside of all the wood with Epoxy resin.

7c281142.jpg


Done for the night. Tomorrow it all gets installed into the boat and glassed in.
 

Crusader

Moderator
Thanks Jasson.

Since the floor will be installed by the weekend, I went ahead and ordered the carpet. The below link is what I chose...it's similar to what Blazeracer used in his Glastron rebuild...however mine will be the Sandstone color.

http://www.corinthian-marine-carpet.com/carpet-by-the-foot/patterned-loop-sandstone

I'm not sure if I should install the carpet before or after the motor install.
 
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