Chrysler Conqueror SIII with Chrysler Jet
- Thread starter ChryslerJet
- Start date
ChryslerJet
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Jarrod I guess I should have bought that bow tank from you too. But 17 Gal is a far cry from the 26. I am thinking about making a small 2" cut out in the front top corner of the tank to move the filler, vent and pickup to make it work better. I might just take this tank and mount it about the deck in the front and be done with it. I think I make make more usable space using this one that the old one in the right spot.
This is a big old Day Cruiser to ultimate speed is not the main goal. Ride quality is some what of a goal since if the kids and wife don't like riding in it then why have it. But I want the best of both worlds. So under the deck slightly forward might be the best location.
This is a big old Day Cruiser to ultimate speed is not the main goal. Ride quality is some what of a goal since if the kids and wife don't like riding in it then why have it. But I want the best of both worlds. So under the deck slightly forward might be the best location.
ChryslerJet
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Kona no waiting until next year this thing is getting done come hell or high water.
ChryslerJet
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I know it dawned on me right after I posted it. Besides wifey will make sure it gets done as long as there is still two sheets of plywood in her van.DISTURBED said:
ChryslerJet
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Hmm a new place to find parts :smile28: bling.gif crazy.gif
blazeracer
New member
ChryslerJet said:
He CJ, I still have my Glastron's original 27 gallon bow tank in great condition. I have a 26 gallon tank in the bow now. Like Devilman, it works well and I'm not the last one to the beach. For a lake cruiser, a bow tank is just fine.
I've done FOUR boat floors in recent history and every single one did NOT have marine ply in them as original from the factory. You can tell if you pull the wood and it has knots in it. Marine ply has the knots removed,
ChryslerJet
New member
I don't know what this one had in it would have to go back and look but I doubt it was Marine Ply based on the layers of plywood. The fillers for the strakes have 3/4" plywood with only 5 layers which is standard Sheathing. I am using Arauco Plywood it has 7 layers using waterproof glue so it is good for external use. It will be sealed with Epoxy and then covered in Fiberglass with epoxy. I doubt I will have to do it again and it is plenty strong. I am filling any voids with Epoxy Peanut Butter as well. I am using some Mahagony I have for the Motor Mount Stringers only because I have it. The original was 3/4" plywood vertical with the same horizontal and a steel plate over the top of it. and all the empty space between the vertical and horizontal pieces and the hull was just open wet space. The bow tank may be just what I am going to do is the least amount of extra work but might use the new tank in that location just because it will fit better just need to make new supports for it. The old tank just had a couple of rubber strips and aluminum straps anyways.blazeracer said:
Before you put the Tank under the floor, read the USCG rule book, I am not 100% certain but I THINK that if the tank is under the floor you must have a removable pannel to access it.ChryslerJet said:Also trial fit the gas tank I got from Simply Orange so I could make a plan to put in the stringers.
I have some questions that I would like to get some opinions on though. One is the boat had a keel stringer and with this tank it would eliminate that where the tank is placed. I was thinking of creating the bulkheads and boxing that section in which would strengthen that section. Does anyone think the Keel would be a weak spot where ever it gets placed? Also based on the looks of it the top of the tank will sit right below the floor not accounting for fittings so they would actually end up going through the floor!! :smile26: I have a couple of solutions
1) move the tank to the front of the boat and let then come through the floor there since it will be in front of the dash area
2) Rotate the tank so the filler is to the back and then that section will be under the rear seat
3) create a hump in the floor to house the connections will be there for someone to trip over (don't like this idea)
4) raise the floor
5) modify the tank to fit better and sacrifice some capacity
6) sell the tank and use the stock tank above the floor in front of the dash area
Here are some pics
What do ya'll think on this?
SimplyOrange
New member
older marine ply had voids and knots, the grade was improved at one point, standard douglas fir ply now days is the equivalent to older marine ply.
what wood is in the ply you are using? the glue and # of layers is the same in all of them.
and i dont think there is a rule in the removable panel for the floor, unless it is fairly new, my martini has the tank permanently under the floor , i would have to pull the cap to remove it.
what wood is in the ply you are using? the glue and # of layers is the same in all of them.
and i dont think there is a rule in the removable panel for the floor, unless it is fairly new, my martini has the tank permanently under the floor , i would have to pull the cap to remove it.
ChryslerJet
New member
Glue is not the same in all plywood. Some are interior glue some are exterior glue hence the CDX instead of CD. It is pine and sealed with the Epoxy it will be fine. I am going to take great care in making sure all the holes are sealed as well. In fact a couple of the holes are getting sealed up for good.SimplyOrange said:
SimplyOrange
New member
i guess i was not specific enough, i meant all exterior grade woods are the same glue, just different woods. you can do it however you want, but i would never persoanlly put pine in a potentially wet envoronment. you can pre seal everything but there will always be a place that water will get into the wood because you cant eal a seam that you cant get to, and that seam is usually the underside which is where the water is and tries to evaporate through the wood.
SimplyOrange
New member
so are you running carpet or floor paint?