Chrysler Conqueror SIII with Chrysler Jet

[Last Mohecian]

In my earlier post that was an either or not an all list.  In other words there has been plenty of reliable car motors or high HP car motors or well built car motors that have lived very short lives in a boat.  Don't take me wrong there are plenty that have survived as well.  There are plenty of well documented engine failures where the guy had come rock solid car motor that lasted a very short time in a boat.  The two statements in bold above are exactly how most of those threads start.  Most of the issue stem from the open cooling system and extended higher RPM.

I'm not trying to be a dick just trying to possibly help you see something you may not know.  There is a lot of knowledge on these board.  These guys are here to help.  :smiley:

I understand and the reason for discussion is to make sure I don't make those mistakes.  Building a motor for the application I guess leaves a lot to the imagination and may not really have said what I was thinking.  So mainly I meant if your building a boat motor for a whacker its different than for a Jet and different from a drag car or a street car.  You have to select the right parts.  I may make some wrong choices and will have to live with them if I don't listen to other peoples advise but then where would we be if Thomas edison had listened to everyone's advise.  Sometimes good things come out of expirementation sometimes bad either way we have to live with it.

I am not doing so well at conveying my point here lately.  I'll try again.  You need to be aware of the clearances and assembly when putting together a boat engine regardless of the hard parts and make of motor.  With the open cooling system boat engines are a different animal than an engine with a closed cooling system.  Many a great car engine has been grenaded by putting it into a boat with the clearances too tight.  I understand the benefit of experimenting.  I am also a big supporter of unique power plants.  Not sure if you noticed but I have a Pontiac 400 in my boat.  I am also a huge fan of GM's LSX platform for a lake boat.  With unique power it can cost us more to make mistakes than someone with a BBC or BBF.  Jet boats also like no vacuum advance and a lot more carb than a car with the same engine build.  All I am trying to say is keep an open mind and be prepared to let go of some of the knowledge you have about cars to transition into boats.  With my record the last few days I'm sure that is clear as mud.  crazy.gif

 

[KONA77]

damn,  Last Mohican CD player is skippin,  or does anyone remember the old saying Broken Record...lol    :smile26:


OK.... wait for it.................................

 

[Last Mohecian]

Plans are to finish the fab work on the chopper this week/weekend As soon as thats done it's time to grind on the hull.  Not sure if I am going to leave it on the home made stands or put it back on the trailer for that.  I am concerned with putting a hook in her.  Anyone have any ideas on how to not do that or to check for one before I go about glassing in the stringers and floor.  Or should I not worry too much about that?

Most of the builds I have seen where people are worried about the bottom they use a 3 point stand.  You want the hull to relax into the normal state is will assume when on the water.  You need to put a stand under the bottom at each corner of the transom and one in the center of the keel near the front.  Once the stringers and floor are in you can flip the hull and blueprint the last 3 feet or so to remove any hook.  When blueprinting the bottom you are only worried about the part of the boat that is in the water while on plane.

Bring on the debate.  :smile28:

 

[Last Mohecian]

damn,  Last Mohican CD player is skippin,  or does anyone remember the old saying Broken Record...lol    :smile26:


OK.... wait for it.................................

It's the pain meds.  :smile30:

 

[ChryslerJet]

In my earlier post that was an either or not an all list.  In other words there has been plenty of reliable car motors or high HP car motors or well built car motors that have lived very short lives in a boat.  Don't take me wrong there are plenty that have survived as well.  There are plenty of well documented engine failures where the guy had come rock solid car motor that lasted a very short time in a boat.  The two statements in bold above are exactly how most of those threads start.  Most of the issue stem from the open cooling system and extended higher RPM.

I'm not trying to be a dick just trying to possibly help you see something you may not know.  There is a lot of knowledge on these board.  These guys are here to help.  :smiley:

I understand and the reason for discussion is to make sure I don't make those mistakes.  Building a motor for the application I guess leaves a lot to the imagination and may not really have said what I was thinking.  So mainly I meant if your building a boat motor for a whacker its different than for a Jet and different from a drag car or a street car.  You have to select the right parts.  I may make some wrong choices and will have to live with them if I don't listen to other peoples advise but then where would we be if Thomas edison had listened to everyone's advise.  Sometimes good things come out of expirementation sometimes bad either way we have to live with it.

I am not doing so well at conveying my point here lately.  I'll try again.  You need to be aware of the clearances and assembly when putting together a boat engine regardless of the hard parts and make of motor.  With the open cooling system boat engines are a different animal than an engine with a closed cooling system.  Many a great car engine has been grenaded by putting it into a boat with the clearances too tight.  I understand the benefit of experimenting.  I am also a big supporter of unique power plants.  Not sure if you noticed but I have a Pontiac 400 in my boat.  I am also a huge fan of GM's LSX platform for a lake boat.  With unique power it can cost us more to make mistakes than someone with a BBC or BBF.  Jet boats also like no vacuum advance and a lot more carb than a car with the same engine build.  All I am trying to say is keep an open mind and be prepared to let go of some of the knowledge you have about cars to transition into boats.  With my record the last few days I'm sure that is clear as mud.  crazy.gif

I gotcha I probably wasn't making myself clear in that I am agreeing with you.  Loosen up the tolerances a little got it.  Over Carb got it. Crazy Mofo got it. No Vacuum advance hmm I am sure the boat motor I have right now has it on it but maybe I am wrong oh whay that came from a Vdrive boat nevermind.  I guess I need to plug that as well.  Mind Open hmm not sure it could be any emptier.

 

[Knotty Girl]

damn,  Last Mohican CD player is skippin,  or does anyone remember the old saying Broken Record...lol    :smile26:


OK.... wait for it.................................

It's the pain meds.  :smile30:

Ya'll cut LM some slack he is recovering.

 

[ChryslerJet]

Most of the builds I have seen where people are worried about the bottom they use a 3 point stand.  You want the hull to relax into the normal state is will assume when on the water.  You need to put a stand under the bottom at each corner of the transom and one in the center of the keel near the front.  Once the stringers and floor are in you can flip the hull and blueprint the last 3 feet or so to remove any hook.  When blueprinting the bottom you are only worried about the part of the boat that is in the water while on plane.

Bring on the debate.  :smile28:

Thanks now that is clear as mud but that's due to the knowledge gap I guess I have more reading.  I have the transom pretty well set solid bottom and sides the bow on the other hand I think needs a wee bit better support.  I have also heard that the sterna nd bow stands should be tied together with some type of bunk boards to help keep it from hooking as if it was on the trailer hence my thought to finish the bunks onthe trailer and put it back on there.

 

[KONA77]

Most of the builds I have seen where people are worried about the bottom they use a 3 point stand.  You want the hull to relax into the normal state is will assume when on the water.  You need to put a stand under the bottom at each corner of the transom and one in the center of the keel near the front.  Once the stringers and floor are in you can flip the hull and blueprint the last 3 feet or so to remove any hook.  When blueprinting the bottom you are only worried about the part of the boat that is in the water while on plane.

Bring on the debate.  :smile28:

Thanks now that is clear as mud but that's due to the knowledge gap I guess I have more reading.  I have the transom pretty well set solid bottom and sides the bow on the other hand I think needs a wee bit better support.  I have also heard that the sterna nd bow stands should be tied together with some type of bunk boards to help keep it from hooking as if it was on the trailer hence my thought to finish the bunks onthe trailer and put it back on there.

lol,  not gonna get out of it that easy,  my v-drive has to have new stringers,  i think the best course of action is to build a stand to fit the contour of the bottom of the boat long before cutting out the stringers,  this way,  you hold the true bottom profile,


let the debate begin.......  NOW :laugh:

 

[Last Mohecian]

Most of the builds I have seen where people are worried about the bottom they use a 3 point stand.  You want the hull to relax into the normal state is will assume when on the water.  You need to put a stand under the bottom at each corner of the transom and one in the center of the keel near the front.  Once the stringers and floor are in you can flip the hull and blueprint the last 3 feet or so to remove any hook.  When blueprinting the bottom you are only worried about the part of the boat that is in the water while on plane.

Bring on the debate.  :smile28:

Thanks now that is clear as mud but that's due to the knowledge gap I guess I have more reading.  I have the transom pretty well set solid bottom and sides the bow on the other hand I think needs a wee bit better support.  I have also heard that the sterna nd bow stands should be tied together with some type of bunk boards to help keep it from hooking as if it was on the trailer hence my thought to finish the bunks onthe trailer and put it back on there.

Looking at your pics I think you are fine on the back.  Not sure on the front.  The problem with putting it on the trailer is the way it supports the boat.  The bunks will have pressure points that are not there when on the water.  When you remove the stringers on the trailer the hull may sag in an strange way.  Once you put it on the water the hull relaxes causing the stringers to pull away or separate from the hull.  I would think yours will be a little more forgiving since it is a larger boat and most likely a heavy layup.  You also need to be careful with the cap off.  Hopefully someone with more experience than I will chime in soon.  I very well could be way off base here.

 

[Last Mohecian]

lol,  not gonna get out of it that easy,  my v-drive has to have new stringers,  i think the best course of action is to build a stand to fit the contour of the bottom of the boat long before cutting out the stringers,  this way,  you hold the true bottom profile,


let the debate begin.......  NOW :laugh:

I can agree with that.  The trailer is not the best thing for that support.  Trailer bunks do very little to actually support the full profile of the bottom.

 

[Patchman]

Put the boat in a big sand box! Hell it would probably work! think.gif LOL! :smile23:

 

[Last Mohecian]

This thread is long and unfortunately the boat was totaled shortly after it hit the water by a drunk driver.  There is a ton of great info in it including stringer replacement and bottom blue printing.  You might find it interesting.

http://www.performanceboats.com/jet-boats/10678-73-kona-resto-build-ii.html

 

[77Jet Star]

Maybe this will help it's a Chrysler video Duane posted a couple of years ago hope it helps  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXW0bx_Ooq4&feature=relatedhelps

 

[ChryslerJet]

Put the boat in a big sand box! Hell it would probably work! think.gif LOL! :smile23:

Patch thats a stroke of genius it just might work now where did i put that dump truck full of sand.

 

[ChryslerJet]

This thread is long and unfortunately the boat was totaled shortly after it hit the water by a drunk driver.  There is a ton of great info in it including stringer replacement and bottom blue printing.  You might find it interesting.

http://www.performanceboats.com/jet-boats/10678-73-kona-resto-build-ii.html

Thanks will read through it sure it will just add to my knowledge and change my way of thinking again.

 

[blazeracer]

I don't think it's as much the open cooling as it is the long duration of WOT duty a boat motor has to endure. You can cool the block and heads as much as you like, but the core relies on oil and will build incredible amounts of heat crossing the lake for a few minutes compared to 12 seconds on a drag strip. Top ring is real suseptable to butting the ends. Forged pistons can swell and lock up. Rods and mains will tighten up in a hurry also. It's was something we also had to keep in mind when I was stationed in Germany and we got to open up our hot rods on the autobahn for long durations. My little ole S10 with a small block had a slap happy set of Kieth Blacks in it, but after a few minutes of heat in her, at 5 grand she was a happy camper. Buld it loose then put some heat in it before standing on her and it will last a long time.

Oh, X2 on ditching the vacuum advance too. I've hooked mine up a couple of times and after a pass or two took it back off. BUT, while the motor discission is great, get it going with what you've got and get that pump figured out.

You can always drop an EFI Hemi in it out of a late model SRT8 Challenger or Charger later! BOO-YAH!!

 

[oldbuck40]

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132314



Found a few pics of a boat like yours!  When you hit the link scroll down a bit!

 

[ChryslerJet]

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132314



Found a few pics of a boat like yours!  When you hit the link scroll down a bit!

I actually have pics of both of those boats in that thread I am using as a guide to the restore.

 

[Crusader]

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132314



Found a few pics of a boat like yours!  When you hit the link scroll down a bit!

I actually have pics of both of those boats in that thread I am using as a guide to the restore.

Have you been able to get a hold of this guy? From reading the thread oldbuck posted, the OP
knows the original engineers of the boat design....there's a wealth of knowledge right there that many of us are not have privey to......the actual design engineers of our boats!

Great find!!

 

[ChryslerJet]

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132314



Found a few pics of a boat like yours!  When you hit the link scroll down a bit!

I actually have pics of both of those boats in that thread I am using as a guide to the restore.

Have you been able to get a hold of this guy? From reading the thread oldbuck posted, the OP
knows the original engineers of the boat design....there's a wealth of knowledge right there that many of us are not have privey to......the actual design engineers of our boats!

Great find!!

Oh yeah I am on a Mailing list he created for just Chrysler owners its not very active and not to many with the Jets most have the whakkers.  The Jet knowledge is lost as the designers are the hull designers they made some pretty sweet looking hull designs for their day.  Hulls are easy to deal with the Jets they made from 73-77 or 79 very short run.  So it really will be a test and tune and hopefully work some new magic each season on the setup.  They are supposed to have annual nationals but didn't have one last year and have hear word of one in OK this year but its been whispers so who knows.  Either way I think this boat will be traveling a lot this year between THB events.