Boat trailer work

Last Mohecian

Administrator
You probably have standard seals and won't need this but here is the info anyway.

Old Seal: Western Axel 233-188-SP2-1
New Seal: Timken 473317

I got them at A&W Bearing in Dallas 214-630-4049.  etrailer.com showed them as well but were out of stock when I did mine.

http://www.etrailer.com/p-168233.html
 

Crusader

Moderator
Last Mohican said:
You probably have standard seals and won't need this but here is the info anyway.

Old Seal: Western Axel 233-188-SP2-1
New Seal: Timken 473317

I got them at A&W Bearing in Dallas 214-630-4049.  etrailer.com showed them as well but were out of stock when I did mine.

http://www.etrailer.com/p-168233.html

Okay, wow. How on earth can I tell if I have the metric or standard seals? Just buy what I can at Tractor supply and if it doesn't fit, I have metric? lol.
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
'78 Crusader said:
Last Mohican said:
You probably have standard seals and won't need this but here is the info anyway.

Old Seal: Western Axel 233-188-SP2-1
New Seal: Timken 473317

I got them at A&W Bearing in Dallas 214-630-4049.  etrailer.com showed them as well but were out of stock when I did mine.

http://www.etrailer.com/p-168233.html

Okay, wow. How on earth can I tell if I have the metric or standard seals? Just buy what I can at Tractor supply and if it doesn't fit, I have metric? lol.

There should be a number somewhere on the seal.  Chances are slim that yours are metric.  I just seem to end up with all the weird crap.  My trailer was built by Road Runner of CA.  They are no longer in business.  Road Runner of TX did not have the seals.
 

Crusader

Moderator
Last Mohican said:
'78 Crusader said:
Last Mohican said:
You probably have standard seals and won't need this but here is the info anyway.

Old Seal: Western Axel 233-188-SP2-1
New Seal: Timken 473317

I got them at A&W Bearing in Dallas 214-630-4049.  etrailer.com showed them as well but were out of stock when I did mine.

http://www.etrailer.com/p-168233.html

Okay, wow. How on earth can I tell if I have the metric or standard seals? Just buy what I can at Tractor supply and if it doesn't fit, I have metric? lol.

There should be a number somewhere on the seal.

Okay, well I plan on taking off the hubs and bearings and will take them with me when I go and purchase the new bearings and seals. This way I can compare them side by side with what is already in there.
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
'78 Crusader said:
Okay, well I plan on taking off the hubs and bearings and will take them with me when I go and purchase the new bearings and seals. This way I can compare them side by side with what is already in there.

Perfect.  Hopefully your bearing are fine and you just need seals.
 

Crusader

Moderator
Last Mohican said:
Perfect.  Hopefully your bearing are fine and you just need seals.

When I took off the rims on Saturday, I spun all four hubs and two of them were grinding....or made a metal on metal type of sound. So just to be careful and to attempt to keep from doing all this work again, I'm going to replace all four sets of bearings and seals....might as well.

 

Devilman

Well-known member
'78 Crusader said:
When I took off the rims on Saturday, I spun all four hubs and two of them were grinding....or made a metal on metal type of sound. So just to be careful and to attempt to keep from doing all this work again, I'm going to replace all four sets of bearings and seals....might as well.

The ones that weren't grinding, may be worth saving for emergency spares.. Clean 'em up, repack 'em, get seals to go with 'em & keep it all in a ziploc bag. Won't take up much room & may get you out of a bind somewhere on the highway. :cool:
 

Crusader

Moderator
Devilman said:
The ones that weren't grinding, may be worth saving for emergency spares.. Clean 'em up, repack 'em, get seals to go with 'em & keep it all in a ziploc bag. Won't take up much room & may get you out of a bind somewhere on the highway. :cool:

Good call, that's what I'll probably end up doing. I have a spare set for the Boston Whaler trailer in the back of the truck, wouldn't be to hard to pack a set for the Jet Boat trailer too and keep them back there as well.

Thanks!
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
'78 Crusader said:
Devilman said:
The ones that weren't grinding, may be worth saving for emergency spares.. Clean 'em up, repack 'em, get seals to go with 'em & keep it all in a ziploc bag. Won't take up much room & may get you out of a bind somewhere on the highway. :cool:

Good call, that's what I'll probably end up doing. I have a spare set for the Boston Whaler trailer in the back of the truck, wouldn't be to hard to pack a set for the Jet Boat trailer too and keep them back there as well.

Thanks!

With any luck they will be the same on both trailers.
 

hellnback

New member
Brakes !!!! Check the Brakes !!!!! if ya don't have any get a set put on !!!  just one axle with brakes can save alot of wear on the tow vehicles brakes and brake failure on a road trip is REALLY BAD !!!
 

Crusader

Moderator
hellnback said:
Brakes !!!! Check the Brakes !!!!! if ya don't have any get a set put on !!!  just one axle with brakes can save alot of wear on the tow vehicles brakes and brake failure on a road trip is REALLY BAD !!!

The trailer has Hydraulic brakes on it but they were disconnected. At times, I will back the boat into my driveway and there's an upgrade in my driveway. As I know nothing about brakes on a trailer, I'm afraid that the brakes will lock up when back up an upgrade into the driveway.
 

hellnback

New member
nah its a smooth push won't do any thing and it's going backwards them surge brakes only really grab when the wheel is rolling forward...try putting the E brake on your truck down lightly and go forward and back ...  it'll go backwards easier than forwards
mines only single axle and lighter than yours and the brakes have saved my a$$ a few times...just sayin'
 

Crusader

Moderator
Just checked the UPS ground tracking number and the tires are "out for delivery" so I should have them at the house by the time I get home from work this afternoon.
 

Crusader

Moderator
Got the tires yesterday and had them mounted at Discount tire for $2.50 a tire. They wanted an additional $15 per tire to balance them and I declined...rip off.

Should I have the trailer tires balanced? What is a reasonable price to pay for balancing?
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
'78 Crusader said:
Got the tires yesterday and had them mounted at Discount tire for $2.50 a tire. They wanted an additional $15 per tire to balance them and I declined...rip off.

Should I have the trailer tires balanced? What is a reasonable price to pay for balancing?

I had mine balanced but I have a connection.  Guess it just depends on how far out they are.  Only way to know for sure would be to have it done.  Kind of a catch 22.
 

Crusader

Moderator
Ya, I hear ya. $15 per tire just sounded way to high. There's an old tire shop here in Plano that I'll check out today as I have the tires in the back of my truck with me now...

Thanks.
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
'78 Crusader said:
Ya, I hear ya. $15 per tire just sounded way to high. There's an old tire shop here in Plano that I'll check out today as I have the tires in the back of my truck with me now...

Thanks.

I agree $15 sounds a little high. 
 

Crusader

Moderator
Last Mohican said:
You might call Jame's connection over at Eagle.

5120 Grisham Drive
Rowlett, TX 75088-3955
(972) 463-0992

$5 a piece there! Much better than the $15 per tire Discount tire wanted to charge
 

Crusader

Moderator
I just called my local Firestone place and where I buy my truck tires. They originally quoted me $39.95 for all four but once I told them that the tires are in the back of my truck and the other place is doing it for $5 a peice, they matched it. So I'm off to Firestone during my lunch break.
 
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