Berkeley pump and engine cooling

[Crusader]

Hey guys, I was over on another site and stumbled upon an interesting topic, running water to both your pump and your engine when running the engine out of the water. This topic is important for us while we head into the winter months and start working on our motors. Berkely says that we should run water into the pump when running the motor out of the water. There's a hose fixture that you can easily make that will allow us to run water to both the engine and the pump at the same time without ruining anything.

Here's the link.

http://www.socaljetboats.com/jet-pumps/berkeley-documents/

I've also attached a picture that I robbed from the same post. I plan on making one of these hose dealies this weekend.

 

[outlawjet]

Thats how I do it, or at least how I was told to do it.

 

[Devilman]

Interesting setup... I've only seen people attempt to keep the pump wet by spraying water either into the nozzle or up the intake from under the boat.... Neither of which does much of anything from what I've been told.

 

[horsepower junkie]

The water to the pump has to go in the outlet from the pump. that goes directly to the wear ring.

 

[Devilman]

The water to the pump has to go in the outlet from the pump. that goes directly to the wear ring.

So that setup does the trick then?

 

[horsepower junkie]

Fo Sho :smile17: But if ya got any doubt a jet a way will do the trick :smile30:

 

[Devilman]

Wicked awesome! I am so making one of those. :smile16: Anytime I can't make it to the lake I can run it on the trailer just for grins.. Hell the neighbors will think I went & bought a v-drive, lol.... :cheesy:

just kiddin v-drive guys... :grin:

Ya a jet-a-way would be pretty sweet too. One of these days... maybe...  :cheesy:

 

[CorDog009]

I had used a T-fitting before, water going to motor from the pump on the horizontal ports, and the one on top I got a waterhose spout from Home Depot. Hooked the water hose up to the top one using a hose for a washing machine that had female ends on both sides. That way I could just leave that hose attached and in the boat. When I wanted to run it on the trailer, I just ran the water hose to the washing machine hose in the boat. I closed the valve on the hard line coming in from the pump, so only water was going to the engine. Once I saw water dump out the transom, I opened the valve to the pump and started the engine. Simple fix and cheap.

 

[jdeaton]

I learned this the hard way, so maybe you can learn something from my bad experience.  I noticed in the picture in the orginal post that the boat was plumed with black heater hose and there was no spicket to restrict the flow of water from the pump to the engine.  This is bad, I plumed a boat like that once upon a time and blew the hose up, nearly sinking the boat. I went to the red high pressure heater hose after that and had no problems.  I was running exhaust logs and a stock Chevy and couldnt afford stainless lines.  Now I read that a pressure relief valve will cure most of the problems associated with high water pressure (water in the oil through broken headgaskets or sucked back through the exhaust when a radical cam is in use.)  Although my boat is plumbed with braided stainless I don't have to worry about blowing a hose, and I have ordered a pressure relief valve to restrict the water pressure to 15 lbs. One more tip, If your pump is fresh or tight, I split the hose from the house tap and used an old water sprinkler to shoot water up through the intake and the other end into the T you see in the first post.  A jet pump is pretty bullet proof but running it dry on the trailer can add years of wear in a very short time.

 

[WFO]

Yes sir a jet-a-way works wonders just disengage when on the trailer. If you are running OTs  should have a gate valve coming off the pump to restrict water to the engine. Then open just enough to keep engine at temp and put water on headers when above 1800 rpm.

 

[Patchman]

Mine has a brass tee with a brass cap that caps the hose fitting when not running on the hose. I will try to find an image! :smile30:

 

[Devilman]

No luck on the image yet?  :cheesy:

 

[Patchman]

Like this but made out of brass!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Universal-Radiator-Hose-Tee-Flush-Kit-47018-/290479694430?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a1f0625e

 

[Devilman]

That's a link, not an image.... :tongue: j/k :cheesy:

:grin:

 

[Crusader]

Ya, that's a pretty cool fitting but I think the Y connector with two shut off valves would work better. With the Y connector, you can leave the side that runs to the motor off, turn the side towards the pump on if your motor is turned off. Once you start the motor, then you can flip the valve to your engine on so as to have cooling. If you're running your hose into a motor that isn't running, you run the risk of getting water into your cylinders through the exhaust ports and bending your rods once you try to start the engine as water will not compress under pressure so it's better to start the engine and then turn the water to the engine on. Once it's time to shut the motor down, first turn off the water and then shut the motor down....once again, to keep the water from flowing into the cylinders.

Hope that makes sense.

 

[Patchman]

With our through transom exhaust, the water doesn't get into the cylinders. You can leave the hose running all day and it just runs out! Ot headers are another story!

 

[Crusader]

With our through transom exhaust, the water doesn't get into the cylinders. You can leave the hose running all day and it just runs out! Ot headers are another story!

Hmm, okay..... seeings that this is all new to me, I'm trying to make sure I get it right. For Devilmans boat, he's best using the procedure I suggested above.

Thanks for that information.

 

[Devilman]

Ya, that's a pretty cool fitting but I think the Y connector with two shut off valves would work better. With the Y connector, you can leave the side that runs to the motor off, turn the side towards the pump on if your motor is turned off. Once you start the motor, then you can flip the valve to your engine on so as to have cooling. If you're running your hose into a motor that isn't running, you run the risk of getting water into your cylinders through the exhaust ports and bending your rods once you try to start the engine as water will not compress under pressure so it's better to start the engine and then turn the water to the engine on. Once it's time to shut the motor down, first turn off the water and then shut the motor down....once again, to keep the water from flowing into the cylinders.

Hope that makes sense.

Yup, you nailed it.. I haven't run mine on the hose but a couple of times, but I have run water through it to flush it out. I have a ball valve on my header feed line so I always like, triple check that bastard to make sure I have it shut before turning on any water....  :wink:

Cuz like you say, water in the cylinders is bad.... mmm'K?

:grin:

 

[Crusader]

Ya, this set up seems like an inexpensive way to do something right.

 

[hellnback]

prestone flush n fill is all ya need its been in mine since like for ever