AC shops?

[72hondo]

Being that I moved to Texas I need to get the AC system back up and running, I can't stand it anymore.

But here lies my problem, I have an 88 Chevy 3500. It still has an R12 system. Last I heard R12 was going for 100 a pound. It needs a new compressor (which I can do) but I will need to take it in to evac the system and recharge. Anyone have any friends or deals for R12? Who knows if shops even carry it anymore. So I may have to convert over to R134a. I kinda want to figure that out before I buy a compressor.

Anyone had this problem before? Any trust worthy shops out there?

Thanks, Robert

 

[Patchman]

I do it all the time, but I'm in Houston. Buy your new parts, flush the system and change the seals. Then charge it with r-134a and forget about it. You'll have to add the proper oil as well! :smile16: It's real simple! You mite have to get a variable orfice tube for that year! think.gif

 

[Last Mohecian]

I have a buddy.  He works on Lambo, Ferrari, AMG, BMW for a living.  Does side work at his house nights and weekends.  I'll call you with his info.  Great guy, great mechanic, very reasonable.

 

[ChryslerJet]

I do it all the time, but I'm in Houston. Buy your new parts, flush the system and change the seals. Then charge it with r-134a and forget about it. You'll have to add the proper oil as well! :smile16: It's real simple! You mite have to get a variable orfice tube for that year! think.gif

Agreed easy to do just get a new compressor as Patch says change out all the seals get and adapter kit from Walmart/Autozone/Oriellys/Advance (take your pick) flush reoil and recharge with 134 and good to go. 

 

[Captin Hazlewood]

I do it all the time, but I'm in Houston. Buy your new parts, flush the system and change the seals. Then charge it with r-134a and forget about it. You'll have to add the proper oil as well! :smile16: It's real simple! You mite have to get a variable orfice tube for that year! think.gif

Agreed easy to do just get a new compressor as Patch says change out all the seals get and adapter kit from Walmart/Autozone/Oriellys/Advance (take your pick) flush reoil and recharge with 134 and good to go.

think.gif

Didn't see anyone mention evacuating the system prior to a recharge, is that an optional step in Shadetree AC Repair? think.gif

 

[ChryslerJet]

I do it all the time, but I'm in Houston. Buy your new parts, flush the system and change the seals. Then charge it with r-134a and forget about it. You'll have to add the proper oil as well! :smile16: It's real simple! You mite have to get a variable orfice tube for that year! think.gif

Agreed easy to do just get a new compressor as Patch says change out all the seals get and adapter kit from Walmart/Autozone/Oriellys/Advance (take your pick) flush reoil and recharge with 134 and good to go.

think.gif

Didn't see anyone mention evacuating the system prior to a recharge, is that an optional step in Shadetree AC Repair? think.gif

I have done it both ways.  Now that I have a good gauge set I prefer to evacuate the air with a vacuum pump to boil all the moisture out of the system but have forced the air out before by bleeding the air out while filling it.  Only thing I need to get to add to my setup now is a good Vacuum pump.  By the way replacing the drier is always a good idea as well since we are getting nitpicky.

 

[Last Mohecian]

Pretty sure George is referring to releasing the existing R12 into the atmosphere prior to opening the system.  Basically he is being a tree hugger and I agree with him.

As for charging a system without purging it first with a vacuum pump, If I ever saw a my mechanic charging my repaired AC system without first evacuating it with a vacuum pump I would never take any work to him ever again.  You can not properly service an AC system that has been open to atmosphere without a vacuum pump.

 

[72hondo]

I do it all the time, but I'm in Houston. Buy your new parts, flush the system and change the seals. Then charge it with r-134a and forget about it. You'll have to add the proper oil as well! :smile16: It's real simple! You mite have to get a variable orfice tube for that year! think.gif

Talked to a guy who can evac the system and recharge it.

That being said I have never touched an AC system. The compressor looks pretty straight forward. The accumulator/dryer looks like you just disconnect the lines and replace it. I have no idea where the orifice tube is located. I believe that's it for the AC system. Any special things I need for the conversion? The guy I talked to said all those parts should set up for 134.

My biggest fear is I go to loosen a line and it blows off because of high pressure in the system. Though the AC system has not been used/worked since I got the truck 5 years ago (don't need AC in CA)

Thanks everyone for the replies

 

[Last Mohecian]

Might be worth having someone throw a set of gauges on it. Could be as simple as  adding a little R12 or replacing the pressure switch that cycles the compressor.

 

[Captin Hazlewood]

Pretty sure George is referring to releasing the existing R12 into the atmosphere prior to opening the system.  Basically he is being a tree hugger and I agree with him.

As for charging a system without purging it first with a vacuum pump, If I ever saw a my mechanic charging my repaired AC system without first evacuating it with a vacuum pump I would never take any work to him ever again.  You can not properly service an AC system that has been open to atmosphere without a vacuum pump.

whatever.gif
I'm no tree hugger!! Look at my avitar..lol however your second paragraph is exactly where I was going...

 

[ChryslerJet]

Might be worth having someone throw a set of gauges on it. Could be as simple as  adding a little R12 or replacing the pressure switch that cycles the compressor.

Definitely throw a set of guages on it or in a pinch tap the shrader valve and see if you get any pressure out of it.  With the vehicle and ac off the pressure should be equalized between the high and low side.

Matt I have refilled it myself for my vehicles in the manner described in a pinch but my preferred method is to do a full vacuum on the system.  The main reason for the vaccum is not to remove all the air but to boil out all the moisture in the system.  in a vacuum water boils at a much lower temp than in 14.7 psi (normal air pressure).  That's why radiators have pressure caps to raise the boiling point of water to above 212 degrees F.  If you can push most of all the air and moisture out after replacing the drier the system will be fine just wont be as efficient and the drier wont last as long. 

While talking about this if everyone replaced thier drier every 5 years the compressor would practically last for ever.  What typically ends up messing up a compressor is water in the system.

On the R12 it is possible it has freon still in it but more than likely since he has to replace the compressor the system has leaked it all out.

 

[Patchman]

I'd check it for pressure first. Chances are by now, no-one will be able to reclaim the r-12. I hate to say it but I wouldn't put it in anything unless it was an all original restored type car. R-134a works great and is allot cheaper. You should always pull a vacuum on any a/c system before charging! I didn't know you had no a/c experience my bad. I just figured you hadn't converted one yet! :smile16: I can give you my number and walk you through it. The orfice tube will be in the liquid line coming from the condensor to the evaporator. Usually on that year of truck, it is probably behind the right front turn signal. If not there, it will be in the evaporator tube where it goes into the firewall! You will need a small pair of needle nose pliers to get it out. I'd let a good a/c guy check your compressor before I called it dead. There should be an honest guy up there somewhere! :smile30:

 

[duanehydro]

30 minutes, my house, buy the parts. no charge.

 

[Last Mohecian]

Pretty sure George is referring to releasing the existing R12 into the atmosphere prior to opening the system.  Basically he is being a tree hugger and I agree with him.

As for charging a system without purging it first with a vacuum pump, If I ever saw a my mechanic charging my repaired AC system without first evacuating it with a vacuum pump I would never take any work to him ever again.  You can not properly service an AC system that has been open to atmosphere without a vacuum pump.

whatever.gif
I'm no tree hugger!! Look at my avitar..lol however your second paragraph is exactly where I was going...

I would look at your avitar but it is the size of a postage stamp.

 

[Last Mohecian]

Might be worth having someone throw a set of gauges on it. Could be as simple as  adding a little R12 or replacing the pressure switch that cycles the compressor.

Definitely throw a set of guages on it or in a pinch tap the shrader valve and see if you get any pressure out of it.  With the vehicle and ac off the pressure should be equalized between the high and low side.

Matt I have refilled it myself for my vehicles in the manner described in a pinch but my preferred method is to do a full vacuum on the system.  The main reason for the vaccum is not to remove all the air but to boil out all the moisture in the system.  in a vacuum water boils at a much lower temp than in 14.7 psi (normal air pressure).  That's why radiators have pressure caps to raise the boiling point of water to above 212 degrees F.  If you can push most of all the air and moisture out after replacing the drier the system will be fine just wont be as efficient and the drier wont last as long. 

While talking about this if everyone replaced thier drier every 5 years the compressor would practically last for ever.  What typically ends up messing up a compressor is water in the system.

On the R12 it is possible it has freon still in it but more than likely since he has to replace the compressor the system has leaked it all out.

There are 2 reasons to evacuate the system.  Remove moisture and check for leaks.  If it won't hold a vacuum it has a leak.  No reason to charge it if it has a leak.  If you open the system there is moisture is in.  No ifs ands or buts.  I have a 16oz glass coke bottle with a schrader valve epoxied into the top so I could show people you can boil water at room temp.  I still have my Blue Point vacuum pump and Snap-on gauge set from when I made a living as a mechanic.  I am open to reasonable offers/trades on them if anyone is interested.  I could use a set of BBC headers with no cracks.

 

[72hondo]

Ill see If I can find a set of gauges to borrow. If both the Low/high sides read zero is that a 100% indicator that there is a leak? The system hasn't been checked In i would say 6/7 years maybe more.

 

[Last Mohecian]

Ill see If I can find a set of gauges to borrow. If both the Low/high sides read zero is that a 100% indicator that there is a leak? The system hasn't been checked In i would say 6/7 years maybe more.

If there is zero pressure it is a pretty safe bet there is a leak.  Hopefully someone up there close to you has a set they can throw on it.  Maybe James (HellInFront)  I have a set but it is kind of a hike just to check it for pressure.

 

[blazeracer]

Didn't see anyone mention evacuating the system prior to a recharge, is that an optional step in Shadetree AC Repair? think.gif

You can let R134 rip away, but the R12 in his system must be evacuated and contained. Then again, if it's not working most likely it has already leaked out.

 

[blazeracer]

Might be worth having someone throw a set of gauges on it. Could be as simple as  adding a little R12 or replacing the pressure switch that cycles the compressor.

Definitely throw a set of guages on it or in a pinch tap the shrader valve and see if you get any pressure out of it.  With the vehicle and ac off the pressure should be equalized between the high and low side.

Matt I have refilled it myself for my vehicles in the manner described in a pinch but my preferred method is to do a full vacuum on the system.  The main reason for the vaccum is not to remove all the air but to boil out all the moisture in the system.  in a vacuum water boils at a much lower temp than in 14.7 psi (normal air pressure).  That's why radiators have pressure caps to raise the boiling point of water to above 212 degrees F.  If you can push most of all the air and moisture out after replacing the drier the system will be fine just wont be as efficient and the drier wont last as long. 

While talking about this if everyone replaced thier drier every 5 years the compressor would practically last for ever.  What typically ends up messing up a compressor is water in the system.

On the R12 it is possible it has freon still in it but more than likely since he has to replace the compressor the system has leaked it all out.

There are 2 reasons to evacuate the system.  Remove moisture and check for leaks.  If it won't hold a vacuum it has a leak.  No reason to charge it if it has a leak.  If you open the system there is moisture is in.  No ifs ands or buts.  I have a 16oz glass coke bottle with a schrader valve epoxied into the top so I could show people you can boil water at room temp.  I still have my Blue Point vacuum pump and Snap-on gauge set from when I made a living as a mechanic.  I am open to reasonable offers/trades on them if anyone is interested.  I could use a set of BBC headers with no cracks.

I pressurize with nitrogen to about 180psi and let it sit for about a minute. You'll hear an obvious leak whistling immediately. If I hear nothing then go take a leak or go post up on THB for 10 minutes or so. If the pressure gauge hasn't moved when I come back I'll pop the nitrogen line which will also purge most of the air out of the system. Just as the nitrogen blast slows I put the schrader valve back in then hook up the vacuum pump and pull it down to 20 on the vacuum gauge. Now it's ready to charge. I have the adapters to connect my fridge gauges to a 134 equipped car.

 

[Patchman]

There you go.

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