Setting up jet pump

[J C Gordon]

I need some tips and secrets. I'm having problems getting my pump to hook-up at launch. I recently pulled shaft, machined it for inducer and replaced front bearing and rope, and grease seals. Installed inducer and aluminum B impeller and set it at .20 sharpened the shoe and detailed impeller and bowl. I think my shoe may be a tad bit high but nor much. What can I do to make it load at holeshot. Also has an open loader. Thanks JC

 

[SlowRyd]

Is it just slipping alittle then catching or is it just winging the motor,  are you just flat footing it right out of the hole or are you just roling into it,  are you sure its noy uncover the intake opening?

 

[J C Gordon]

It's slipping more than I want it to. It does good from a roll. I tend to get a lil heavy on the throttle at times but it's not hooking like I've seen other boats do. It's raising the bow too high also so I'm wanting to go to a striaght snoot. At medium throttle it slips then grabs. I can tell the inducer helped a lil bit. And yes it wings the motor and then ya have to try and pedal it.

 

[SlowRyd]

Have ya tried moving the motor forward?

 

[J C Gordon]

Haven't gone that extreme yet.

 

[SlowRyd]

If the motor is too far back and you have gunnel tanks when you launch all that fuel stacks up in the back causing the boat to rare up, when the boat rares up like this the pump will never load properly to give you that drag race type launch,  I dont know if going to a straight snoot is going to be the right move for a g-wing cause that might kill your high speed lift.

 

[J C Gordon]

I have 10 gallon tanks that are in the back and only using one tank on passenger side.

 

[J C Gordon]

From transom to rear of block is 20"

 

[SlowRyd]

how far is the pump set back,  does it launch better with a passenger than it does with just you in the boat?

 

[J C Gordon]

Ok I'm moving my engine forward to 26" from transom to rear of block. Also what about ride plate angles and lengths and widths? This thread is going good for me lots of feedback. Thanks again guys. Boats getting closer to where I want it.

 

[SlowRyd]

Id run about an 18 to 19 in plate same width as the shoe and start at about 2 degrees up from the keel and work from there, but all of my experience is with tunnel hulls, I wouldnt change to much all at once cause you might not know what did what, I think youre gonna find moving the motor is going to make a hell of a difference.

 

[J C Gordon]

Yeah right now i'm 20'' so 6'' ought to make a big difference.. still have 4'' of room for backseat..

 

[SlowRyd]

Oh and make sure there isnt any lilly pads up in the pump from that pond!!

 

[J C Gordon]

LOL, seen that did ya? hey it worked pretty good just nasty as hell. But yes done cleaned and checked it out.. :smile16:

 

[sturat]

IMO I would start at 4 degree up with a gw

 

[SlowRyd]

GO with what stu says on the angle I have 0 experience with a winger so I really couldn't tell ya ther  I also started a 4 on my SWTD and bitch tried to fly  but it all depends on keel angle got mine at about 3 now

 

[J C Gordon]

K im used to working with pickleforks. This is my first g-wing..

 

[slow67]

I've heard start at 4* with a gullwing too, and that they take a little more rideplate angle fly 'em right.

 

[J C Gordon]

I want it fly, just not litterally.

 

[J C Gordon]

After all the debateing, I have found that for a g-wing 4 degrees ride plate and 6 degrees nozzel angle is pretty darn close. I've got it launching pretty good now as long as I don't get too excited and flat the go peddle to soon, but I think the smaller B impeller is at fault there. Switching to an A/B aggressor and see where that leads.