Bowl drilled crooked?

Last Mohecian

Administrator
This is an older Aggressor conversion for a Jacuzzi YJ. It is similar to an Energizer kit. I think the bowl was drilled slightly off.  I noticed it when I swapped this pump from my Ambassador to my Rebel. I could see from the back that the nozzle was rotated slightly counter clockwise. Now that I have added a Place droop with ride plate it is very obvious. I checked it with a degree finder at the machined surface on the top of the jet intake. It reads 0*. I also checked the top of the hand hole cover. Again 0*. I checked the ride plate and it has 3* of tilt to it. My question is, how critical is this on a 60 MPH boat? I can think of two ways to fix it. Slot the holes in the place droop so I can rotate it slightly, Slot the holes in the suction housing so I can rotate the bowl slightly. I think I would prefer to slot the suction housing simply because a YJ suction housing has much less resale value than a place droop. Any thoughts or suggestions?





 

jdeaton

New member
Your boat will always pull up and left, just add a little right rudder and you should be OK.  Really I don't think it will hurt a thing! :smile27:
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
Duane at HTP suggested I just level the ride plate and fly with it.  That should be easy enough to do with a shim.  We could all use a little shim now and then.  :smile27:
 

Devilman

Well-known member
Last Mohican said:
Duane at HTP suggested I just level the ride plate and fly with it.  That should be easy enough to do with a shim.  We could all use a little shim now and then.  :smile27:

That sounds like something Crusader would say.... :shocked:


Yes, its another he/she joke, sorry Cliff, lol... :grin:


Far as the boat is concerned, I'd probably just run it as is first, see what it does. If it acts weird, you can alway tinker with it afterward.
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
Devilman said:
Last Mohican said:
Duane at HTP suggested I just level the ride plate and fly with it.  That should be easy enough to do with a shim.  We could all use a little shim now and then.  :smile27:

That sounds like something Crusader would say.... :shocked:


Yes, its another he/she joke, sorry Cliff, lol... :grin:


Far as the boat is concerned, I'd probably just run it as is first, see what it does. If it acts weird, you can alway tinker with it afterward.

I tried but I got nothing.  LOL.
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
Few more pics.  I dug a little deeper today.  It is a combination of issues.  The intake is set about 1* off.  The bowl appears to be drilled about 3* off.  Both of those together = about a 4 degree twist to the nozzle.  I'm not that worried about the nozzle.  I ran it that was all last season without issue.  I do want to level the ride plate.  That will be easy enough with a shim.  Tom said he will re drill the bowl for me at no charge.  Not sure it is worth the effort or shipping cost though.









 

jimsplace

Active member
It is kind of hard to tell for sure, but are you sure the boat is sitting perfectly level on the trailer or maybe the trailer is not perfectly level to the ground?  In looking at the pictures on the computer, it looks like the left side of the boat is slightly lower than the right, which is the same way the bowl appears to be off.

I am not there, so it could just be the way I am looking at it. 
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
OK, More pics.  Josh @ JBP noticed in one of my earlier threads that it looked like the exit of the bowl had been re-drilled in the past.  He was right.  The holes were full of epoxy.  I was able to clean the all out and chase the thread (With a thread chaser not a tap).  There were no broken bolts.  They all cleaned up just fine.  I moved the studs and re-installed the droop.











I checked to see if the hull was level on the trailer.  It is within a 1/6"




I re-installed the droop and Doh!  Now the nozzle is tilted the opposite way about 4*  :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
After:


Before:


I'll pull the pump and check the intake sometime soon unless you see something else I am missing.  If it was boating season I would not be spending this much time on it.  Since we are on down time it's kinda fun to try and sort it out.

Thanks for all you help JBP Crew!!!

 

TintMan

New member
dammmitz! Maybe you could slot the holes on the droop and silicon it and washer it to seal up? think.gif
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
TintMan said:
dammmitz! Maybe you could slot the holes on the droop and silicon it and washer it to seal up? think.gif

That would be too easy.  LOL.  I'm not sure how this boat is going to respond to the droop.  If it does not like it I am selling the droop and ride plate.  If it is slotted it will be harder to sell.  Tom said he will fix the bowl no charge.  Just gotta pay shipping.  At this point it is not much more work to pull the pump.  I want to check the bowl bushing and shaft from the repair last summer anyway.
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
More pictures.  The pump is now out.  The intake is off about 1.5*  How can I figure out if that 1.5* is because the boat is crooked on the trailer or the intake set crooked and is it worth it to even look for 1.5*?







The ride plate is off as well.  Easy enough to fix with a BFH.  LOL.  The bench is level.  I checked it first.


Prior to pulling the pump I used a sharpie to paint the flange and scribed a line using a level so Josh would have something to reference.  Now that I am unsure if the boat or intake is off 1.5* I thought I might need to redo it after using a floor jack to jack the trailer up until the intake is level.  Hence my question earlier about boat or intake being crooked.



I would like to make sure and check everything I can before sending the bowl to Josh.  I would hate to have him machine it only to have a similar issue when I get it back.
 

jimsplace

Active member
I would use a square or rectangular straight edge that can be set on the stringers and then place a level on that for reference.  I think that may be your best reference.  With that said, boats are not a precision machine and the more you check, the more variations you will find exist.  Having a starting reference is necessary, though.
 

blazeracer

New member
Place your angle gauge on a known flat part of the boat and let some air out of the high side tires till it shows level, then work on getting the pump level.
 

ChryslerJet

New member
blazeracer said:
Place your angle gauge on a known flat part of the boat and let some air out of the high side tires till it shows level, then work on getting the pump level.
Absolutely Brilliant
 

Last Mohecian

Administrator
Good suggestions.  The problem is finding a known flat part of the boat.  Everything on the top of this boat is exactly flat.  I will check across the stringers but I think the best place is across the center strakes.  A couple of people on other boards have suggested that and it makes sense to me.  We will see later today if it works.  I totally agree with Jim that these things are not a precise build.  At some point I will decide it is not worth further pursuit.  I keep hoping something obvious will turn up.  LOL.
 

ChryslerJet

New member
BTW I would say the 1.5 degrees is probably not that bad but the 3-4 degrees is.  At 1.5 it just maybe might have a slight list but i doubt it.  Of course shim the ride plate so its true to the hull.  Bottom line that's all that matters is that its putting as much force directly behind the hull to push it forward.  I think a shim for 1.5 degrees will be easier and look better than a shim for 3-4 degrees.
 

blazeracer

New member
On my boat, the entry point right in front of the pump intake is a flat spot. Square that to the floor then get the suction piece, bowl and ride plate square to the floor. It's by no means precise but should get you within a degree or so.
 
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